Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit from Jegs. Questions..

-
Take the old dist cap off and notice where the rotor is pointing before you remove the old distributor so you don't install the new one 180' out.

When I installed mine I didn't put the distributor down far enough because the O-ring was so tight. Look back there and make sure it is seated all the way down to the block so that the shaft is all the way into the oil pump gear shaft.
 
A little grease on the o-ring will allow it to slide in a little easier.
 
timthumb.php
 
right.....good advice on the dizzy there guys :pottytra:

im sure your kit has instuctions for installation ....just in case Mopar Muscle posted a real simple wiring diagram ...i have used it many times and it works every time

you can use half of a dual ballast resistor ....just make sure to mark which side is normal and which side is auxilary

unless you get the mopar performance ballast (P5206436)

Oh ....and you need a 70+ voltage regulator and harness plug ....i usually cut the harness plug off a donor car with about 3-4 inches of wire....just about any mopar 70-80 is good for a donor voltage regulator harness plug.
 

Attachments

  • CIMG1891.jpg
    84.7 KB · Views: 1,183
  • CIMG1892.jpg
    137.8 KB · Views: 922
also you will need a dual field altenator ......the harness has an extra field wire for the second plug on the altenator ....without the second field wire it wont charge......any 70s altenator will work ...preferably a "square back" unit.....(charges better at lower RPMS)
 
Actually, Rani, you don't have to use the late alternator regulator. MOST replacement regulators for pre--69 cars are already solid state. You can look on the bottom if you are not sure. If there are NOT two great big resistors on the bottom, it's a solid state regulator

This photo, with resistors, is an original mechanical regulator

http://vintagemoparts.com/img/p/440-1621-large.jpg

The "quality" 69/ earlier replacements are NAPA VR-1001 or Standard (brand) VR-128. You can also use those on the later alternator by simply grounding one field terminal.

You can do this either way, but when I bought my 67, it had an breakerless "kit" with the old mechanical regulator, and seemed to run fine that way.

I have no idea of the quality of that Jeg's kit.
 
67Dart273 said:
Actually, Rani, you don't have to use the late alternator regulator. MOST replacement regulators for pre--69 cars are already solid state. You can look on the bottom if you are not sure. If there are NOT two great big resistors on the bottom, it's a solid state regulator

This photo, with resistors, is an original mechanical regulator

http://vintagemoparts.com/img/p/440-1621-large.jpg

The "quality" 69/ earlier replacements are NAPA VR-1001 or Standard (brand) VR-128. You can also use those on the later alternator by simply grounding one field terminal.

You can do this either way, but when I bought my 67, it had an breakerless "kit" with the old mechanical regulator, and seemed to run fine that way.

I have no idea of the quality of that Jeg's kit.
Click to expand...


oh hee hee ..i have never bought a new replacement voltage regulator ......and all my 69 and earlier cars have been the original non-solid state ones

i usually use donor car parts bcoz im cheap ......but thats good to know that the new replacement v regulator units come in solid state.

thank you sir for your input ...i see there is more than one way to cook bacon here .....gee ya learn something new everyday :cheers:
 
The solid state regulator reduce electrical noise issues. Voltage spikes are reduced. The ignition box will live a longer, and a more happy life.
 
You can keep your 1-wire alternator and get an electronic Vreg for it for $11 on rockauto. Same connectors, just looks different (thin, chrome box).

I wouldn't fool with that old Mopar electronic ignition on a 1965. You can buy a $45 "ready-to-run" HEI distributor for your small block on ebay (skipwhiteperformance). Many posts here. Better spark and more reliable. Best to use an e-core coil. Another alternative is to get a later Mopar electronic distributor to trigger a GM 8-pin HEI module. They have a cable straight to their coil. Cost ~$25 in junkyard parts, any GM V-8 truck 85-95, or car to 93. Look for a "small cap" distributor and "external coil". TrailBeast here sells a kit with new parts for $99. That is currently the only HEI option for slant engines.
 
awesome hints so far (except for #4 and #5 HAHAHA) - thank you

i got a bit discouraged when i opened the hood and saw a rats nest of wiring.. Made me realize i haven't touched any of that for years and years.

what worries me is the instructions are asking me to splice into certain wires that i dont have any testers to test for..
 
Can you post the destructions, IE are they online? And who makes this? It doesn't seem to be Mopar brand, but rather aftermarket?
 
You better find someone close that knows what they are doing with the proper tools to help you . I am sure there is someone on this site that would.
 
Sorry to bump a post with no relevant information, but I just cannot resist.................

rklein383 said:
A little grease on the o-ring will allow it to slide in a little easier.
Click to expand...
^^ THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!!!!!

Sorry.... I'll go back to the political forum now. :(
 
67Dart273 said:
Can you post the destructions, IE are they online? And who makes this? It doesn't seem to be Mopar brand, but rather aftermarket?
Click to expand...

Stupid work gets in the way sometimes.. i took a picture of the picture directions (below). My electrical knowledge is lacking so finding the "ignition switch start position" and "Ignition switch run position" is going to be difficult for me.. i think i can do the rest.. but.. yah..

photo.JPG


Oldmanmopar said:
You better find someone close that knows what they are doing with the proper tools to help you . I am sure there is someone on this site that would.
Click to expand...

Agreed.. i shot a message in the San Diego area but didnt get a response really yet.. Going to try again this weekend..!

ceekay said:
Sorry to bump a post with no relevant information, but I just cannot resist.................


^^ THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!!!!!

Sorry.... I'll go back to the political forum now. :(
Click to expand...

:cheers:
 
The "switch run" wire is blue 14 awg (or grn? forgot). The "start wire" is brown 12 awg (thicker). As I said, HEI is much simpler to hook up since you toss the ballast. That kit is old technology and problematic.

Did you buy it yet? That is a steep price to get electronic ignition, and a bit of effort. Another approach is a Pertronix Ignitor in your existing distributor. Model I $60 (old, w/ ballast), model II $90 (similar to HEI), or model III $120 (MSD type).
 
BillGrissom said:
The "switch run" wire is blue 14 awg (or grn? forgot). The "start wire" is brown 12 awg (thicker). As I said, HEI is much simpler to hook up since you toss the ballast. That kit is old technology and problematic. Did you buy it yet? That is a steep price to get electronic ignition.
Click to expand...

..yah, bought and in my hands :eek:ops: shoulda asked here first..

EDIT: Been looking online, and youre right: those HEI versions are much easier..
 
Lots of info there to digest, cap! Since you have the kit in hand I would say use it. There must be thousands of MOPARS running around with those components. One thing that I noticed in the JEGS description is that it features a "high performance" distributor curve. This means that the mechanical advance comes in more quickly than the stock units. For a daily driver/cruiser you probably want the standard advance curve.

Yes there are newer systems available and they're quite possibly better than the 40+year old technology you bought.
Personally, I don't want to put GM parts in my MOPARS. (Ford parts either!) Just my personal preference, many contributors here disagree. Since it's my car and my money, they're MY choices.

ATB

BC
 
crashcaptn said:
the "ignition switch start position" and "Ignition switch run position"
Click to expand...

That's easy. If your factory harness is in OK condition, you can just plug the new ballast in in place of your old one. Leave the factory wire hooked to the coil + terminal. Now all you need is to pick off power to go to the box. If you have trouble identifying which side of the ballast to hook to, UNPLUG the ballast, and turn the key to the "run" position, then see which wire which goes to the ballast has power.

That is the (blue) wire that in your new diagram goes off to the box.
Is this a /6 or v8?
 
64ragtop said:
Lots of info there to digest, cap! Since you have the kit in hand I would say use it. There must be thousands of MOPARS running around with those components. One thing that I noticed in the JEGS description is that it features a "high performance" distributor curve. This means that the mechanical advance comes in more quickly than the stock units. For a daily driver/cruiser you probably want the standard advance curve.

Yes there are newer systems available and they're quite possibly better than the 40+year old technology you bought.
Personally, I don't want to put GM parts in my MOPARS. (Ford parts either!) Just my personal preference, many contributors here disagree. Since it's my car and my money, they're MY choices.

ATB

BC
Click to expand...

your not alone
 
crashcaptn said:
awesome hints so far (except for #4 and #5 HAHAHA) - thank you

i got a bit discouraged when i opened the hood and saw a rats nest of wiring.. Made me realize i haven't touched any of that for years and years.

what worries me is the instructions are asking me to splice into certain wires that i dont have any testers to test for..
Click to expand...

Here's how I did my '66 Valiant. You only have to hook up 2 wires in the electronic ignition harness. 1 wire has a ring terminal already on it. This replaces the -(neg) wire that is hooked to the coil. I just taped the old wire off in the exiting engine harness. Go to NAPA and get some 1/4" spade terminal doublers. These are a flat metal connector with a female spade terminal on 1 side and 2 male spades on the other. They come in a box of 5 and you have to get the box to get 1. Swap the kit ballast for the one on your firewall one wire at a time. I unplugged a wire on the old ballast and moved it to the new one in my hand until they were all moved and then took the old one off the firewall and screwed the new ballast down in it's place. Run the blue wire from the electronic harness over to the ballast resistor and install a female 1/4" spade terminal on it. Unplug the bottom right wire (brown) from the ballast and replace it with one of the spade doublers. Then plug the 2 wires in your hand (brown and blue) to the terminals on the doubler and you are done. You will still need to swap in an electronic voltage regulator as mentioned above and do not freak out when the epoxy starts to melt out of the back of the control module after a month or so. The only purpose the epoxy serves is to keep idiots out of the ignition electronics. 7 years later mine is still going strong with no problems except the trail of melted epoxy running down the inner fender. I fail to see how hooking up a HEI could be any easier or more beneficial and I haven't started turning my MOPAR into a Blowtie one part at a time.
 
i used a new Mopar wiring harness and all salvage yard parts ....works great LOL and mega cheap
 

Attachments

  • CIMG0593.jpg
    41.8 KB · Views: 890
you people are incredible - thank you. wish i had some more experience in the wiring field.. but that's why I'm tinkering with it the way i am. Body work, no prob.. but wiring might as well be me reading Chinese; same effect.

67Dart273 said:
That's easy. If your factory harness is in OK condition, you can just plug the new ballast in in place of your old one. Leave the factory wire hooked to the coil + terminal. Now all you need is to pick off power to go to the box. If you have trouble identifying which side of the ballast to hook to, UNPLUG the ballast, and turn the key to the "run" position, then see which wire which goes to the ballast has power.

That is the (blue) wire that in your new diagram goes off to the box.
Is this a /6 or v8?
Click to expand...

Its a v8 - i'll have to do some research into whats under my hood.. i'll be an expert when this is all done..

grumpuscreature said:
Here's how I did my '66 Valiant. You only have to hook up 2 wires in the electronic ignition harness. 1 wire has a ring terminal already on it. This replaces the -(neg) wire that is hooked to the coil. I just taped the old wire off in the exiting engine harness. Go to NAPA and get some 1/4" spade terminal doublers. These are a flat metal connector with a female spade terminal on 1 side and 2 male spades on the other. They come in a box of 5 and you have to get the box to get 1. Swap the kit ballast for the one on your firewall one wire at a time. I unplugged a wire on the old ballast and moved it to the new one in my hand until they were all moved and then took the old one off the firewall and screwed the new ballast down in it's place. Run the blue wire from the electronic harness over to the ballast resistor and install a female 1/4" spade terminal on it. Unplug the bottom right wire (brown) from the ballast and replace it with one of the spade doublers. Then plug the 2 wires in your hand (brown and blue) to the terminals on the doubler and you are done. You will still need to swap in an electronic voltage regulator as mentioned above and do not freak out when the epoxy starts to melt out of the back of the control module after a month or so. The only purpose the epoxy serves is to keep idiots out of the ignition electronics. 7 years later mine is still going strong with no problems except the trail of melted epoxy running down the inner fender. I fail to see how hooking up a HEI could be any easier or more beneficial and I haven't started turning my MOPAR into a Blowtie one part at a time.
Click to expand...

Very awesome thank you so much! I'll have this printed out and looking under my hood when theres sunlight again..

RaniDart70 said:
i used a new Mopar wiring harness and all salvage yard parts ....works great LOL and mega cheap
Click to expand...

That part looks familiar! Any tips?? :happy1:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top