Electronic ignition mounting plate for Conversion

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cchrishefish

cchrishefish

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I want to mount the electronic chrysler style ignition box to my passenger side inner fender wall. I purchased a performance set up from Robert Ehrenburg. Is there a mounting plate available for the factory style ignition box?
 
Something such as these?
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1971-1976 All Makes All Models Parts | MD4698 | 1971-76 Mopar Ecu Mounting Bracket | Classic Industries

ECU Mounting Bracket Kit 72-74 E
 
What’s the advantage of using a mounting plate? Seems like most of them I see are mounted directly to the firewall or inner fender.
 
However you choose to mount the ignition module, make sure you have a good ground! I always run a copper ground strap back to the engine from the module. 65'
 
The power transistor and the heat sink are on the top side of the module. I believe that is where most of the heat is generated.

Most heat sinks are big hunks of metal. Sounds a lot like a firewall. As big as the firewall is compared to the size of the module, seems like it would be an “infinite” heat sink.

I suppose a case could be made that there is an improvement in airflow, but I wonder if anyone has any data to support that is a functional improvement.

Maybe my analysis is bad, but I am curious if the mounting plates actually improve heat transfer, or if this is just a gimmick that sounds good on the surface.
 
Mike69cuda said:
The power transistor and the heat sink are on the top side of the module. I believe that is where most of the heat is generated.

Most heat sinks are big hunks of metal. Sounds a lot like a firewall. As big as the firewall is compared to the size of the module, seems like it would be an “infinite” heat sink.

I suppose a case could be made that there is an improvement in airflow, but I wonder if anyone has any data to support that is a functional improvement.

Maybe my analysis is bad, but I am curious if the mounting plates actually improve heat transfer, or if this is just a gimmick that sounds good on the surface.
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I`d make one ! If I wanted one .
 
Mike69cuda said:
The power transistor and the heat sink are on the top side of the module. I believe that is where most of the heat is generated.

Most heat sinks are big hunks of metal. Sounds a lot like a firewall. As big as the firewall is compared to the size of the module, seems like it would be an “infinite” heat sink.

I suppose a case could be made that there is an improvement in airflow, but I wonder if anyone has any data to support that is a functional improvement.

Maybe my analysis is bad, but I am curious if the mounting plates actually improve heat transfer, or if this is just a gimmick that sounds good on the surface.
Click to expand...
Chrysler engineers decided they were needed. I reused one off a 72 yorker
 
Interesting, I did not know they were OEM. Must have been some rationale, as car manufacturers generally don’t add cost without a reason.
 
There are better options out there than the dated Chrysler boxes!
 
1969383S said:
There are better options out there than the dated Chrysler boxes!
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I purchased performance ignition set from Robert Ehrenburg, I have been reading some older literature from The Dart/Valiant Slant 6 club of America. I have 68 vintage issues. His name appears in several of those editions. Maybe some old school members know more about him than I do. Anyway, this is a 7500 rpm set up with all new parts including ECU, wiring harness, ballast resistor, and a special curved distributor. I am going to give it a try.

MOPAR Slant Six HiRev Electronic Ignition Kit OEM Dodge Plymouth Dart Valiant + | eBay
 
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Yes the name rings a bell. Best of luck with your endeavor. You did mention Old and that’s all I was trying to say.
 
I have to laugh, yesterday at work, a much younger co-worker told a 50 something co-worker, that she hopes that the next person hired is younger. Well, the much younger worker that said this is always calling in sick. And, she purposely deviates from her assigned shift. So, the older workers posted an article indicating how older workers are more reliable and committed to their jobs. I believe old school can get the job done and it may be more reliable.
 
Yes it can to a degree. Nothing wrong with old, I am!
 
Here’s where we mounted ours. I’ve mounted all mine like this for 25 years. Never an issue. Eric

5995BE58-CE4C-41D3-A752-31304B08F4D7.png
 
That is what the Slant 6 Club books indicate, one enthusiast mentions that he put over 200,000 miles on his slant 6 and even though the engine needed rebuilding, he did not have to replace the ignition system.
 
Anybody know the last date “Chrysler” actually did an update to one of the ECU’s?

Lots of aftermarket vendors have since but has “Chrysler”?
 
1969383S said:
Seems like one of the hottest places to put it to me. Glad you have not had issues!
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Yep. Works great.

Like somebody posted earlier, grounding the box is very important.

When we were wiring Jason’s car we were very careful to ground everything very well.
 
prorac1 said:
Yep. Works great.

Like somebody posted earlier, grounding the box is very important.

When we were wiring Jason’s car we were very careful to ground everything very well.
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Understood.

But why drill holes and mount it there?

If I was ever to decide to go back with a Chrysler ECU and the extra wiring for pre-70 it would not be there and likely under the battery tray. I have run all the Chrysler boxes and not truly pleased with all but the Gold ECU. Just do not like the extra harness when newer stuff is better and easily hidden with no extra wiring.
 
1969383S said:
Understood.

But why drill holes and mount it there?

If I was ever to decide to go back with a Chrysler ECU and the extra wiring for pre-70 it would not be there and likely under the battery tray. I have run all the Chrysler boxes and not truly pleased with all but the Gold ECU. Just do not like the extra harness when newer stuff is better and easily hidden with no extra wiring.
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I see what your saying.

My biggest reason is because it looks like someplace Chrysler would have shoved it. Lol.

And because of where the wires need to run, it keeps the harness short. I wire it in such a way it looks like an extension of the original harness.

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And we were going for clean and open.
 
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