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Nice looking ride, I would be proud to own it!
Those brackets are an aftermarket piece. They were originally designed, so you didn't have to drill holes in your car. Mainly on Cudas, Roadrunners,and Chargers . They had nothing to do with heat, although it wouldn't hurt. They were also, never designed for A body's, so in my opinion you don't need it. You do want to mount your ECU in a cool place. Up on the fender apron is generally, one of the better places. For a slant six, this is a great spot. Its cool, and easier to hook up your wiring.
Nice looking engine bay, I want to mount mine exactly like yours. I like the way you grounded the ECU. I also want to bypass my bulk head connector based on an article which I read for upgrading older wiring. I believe it involves wiring the positive side of the battery to the alternator with a fusible link. I am quite sure that my future plans for the Torqstorm Suercharger, will require the battery to be relocated to the trunk.
I am posting an old school video, I hope you like it.
They mounted them on he L inner fender, on top. I always mount my pre electronic ignition under the battery tray, and I’ve never had a problem. I run an orange box. I would say if you’re just running a street car. As long everything is wired, and grounded correctly you should have years of reliable service. Just my two cents.
I am reading over the installation instructions on my new ignition kit. One thing that gets my attention is the following statement: This system is designed for use with the enclosed ballast resistor and an OEM ignition coil, or a replacement with OEM specifications, primary resistance 1.4 to 1.8 ohms. Use of a lower resistance coil (C-D/MSD etc) or the ballast resistor jumped will destroy the ECU. With that being said, my current coil is a flamethrower coil. I do believe it would be best for me to change this. Can someone recommend a new coil?
I also found an excellent Popular Mechanic artice pages 35-38. Popular Mechanics
My recommendation would be to ditch the box and extra wiring and keep the coil and put the flamethrower unit in point type dizzy. Probably does not sit well but you asked. JMO. Otherwise just get the OEM coil.
I believe this is the right one for a 74 Dart: https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Mot...----6&vehicleId=6&vehicleName=1974+Dodge+Dart Rock Auto has the best price on it.
What model flamethrower coil do you have? You can find the resistance on the web. If you can tell me the model # I will see if I can figure it out. You may be able to use your coil
I will have to wait until the snow melts in a couple weeks then I will reply back.
I highly recommend adding a trough on the bottom to catch any "goo" that might come out. I made an easy fabbed plate for mine with a simple 90* angle at the bottom, and it's already saved my fresh engine bay paint!
Ok, the ice melted today and I have access to the engine compartment. This is the coil that is mounted: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00199BO4C/ref=psdc_15716021_t1_B00199F2WW It is a 3.0 OHM coil, will this work with a Chrysler electronic ignition, or do I need to change it?
I would think it would be fine as long as the resistance is higher than what is specified. Since 3 is higher than 1.4, you won’t damage anything by trying since it will pull less current. Maybe others on the forum have done this same thing?
Should I risk damaging a new unit or should I buy a new coil? The instructions on my new High Rev Electronic Ignition Kit, states to use a OEM ignition coil or replacement with a primary resistance of 1.4 to 1.8 ohms
I am thinking that it is best to follow the recommended instructions. And, I am considering purchasing the following coil based on specifications and excellent reviews. https://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-40...1&refRID=P2FH7CKK7B0KVG8QA902#customerReviews
If the instructions specify a specific type type of part and you don’t mind spending the money, that is usually the best. however, like a lot of guys, I take a lot of pleasure in figuring out how to make things work without giving other people my money all the time. My point was that with a higher resistance coil than what was called out, you wouldn’t damage anything by trying.
I did some more reseach on the coil issue. It appears that the the 3 ohm coils are designed to use without a ballast resistor. So if you use it with your ballast resistor, it will work, but will likely lower you spark voltage. Best to get the right coil as you have suggested. My mistake.
According to the vendor, you are correct. He indicated that the 3.0 ohm will provide a little more resistance and will not pose a problem. Thank you, why spend money on a coil if I do not need to