Engine bay J bar

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MoparMic

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I’m at the point where I have to decide whether I’m gonna put a J bar in from a Cowell down to the frame in the front of the car it does have fender well header or I wouldn’t even worry about it. What are you guys running or not running

1F0C139B-61E1-43C4-938A-E9414A323A6E.jpeg
 
I’m at the point where I have to decide whether I’m gonna put a J bar in from a Cowell down to the frame in the front of the car it does have fender well header or I wouldn’t even worry about it. What are you guys running or not running

View attachment 1715206670
I`m running the J bars. I bought a couple of pieces of 1 5/8' tubing and bent them in a big electricians tubing bender, same as the side bars in my roll cage .
 
The inner fenderwell is an integral support structure of the front end along with the front subframe. Yours seem to be still there, helping to support the front. I removed mine to replace them and the last supporting spot weld went out with a bang and the spotweld went of alignment about 2-3mm. The wall thickness of a j-bar may be a little much for an EMT bender unless you used a hydraulic one?
 
The inner fenderwell is an integral support structure of the front end along with the front subframe. Yours seem to be still there, helping to support the front. I removed mine to replace them and the last supporting spot weld went out with a bang and the spotweld went of alignment about 2-3mm. The wall thickness of a j-bar may be a little much for an EMT bender unless you used a hydraulic one?

When I removed the left side from my '67 convertible nothing moved when I removed it. The new (it was out of a '68 Dart) dropped right into place. With that said, I wouldn't remove one and keep it out without installing the J-bars.
 
The inner fenderwell is an integral support structure of the front end along with the front subframe. Yours seem to be still there, helping to support the front. I removed mine to replace them and the last supporting spot weld went out with a bang and the spotweld went of alignment about 2-3mm. The wall thickness of a j-bar may be a little much for an EMT bender unless you used a hydraulic one?

Was a hand cranker, no problem for elec. tubing, but took a helper for the thicker steel tubing. Had a gauge on it so that duplication could be made.. Where I screwed up on my j bars was I built them before I had a big block installed , or the bigger crossflow rad., I almost got them in the way of my motor plate brackets, not wanting them up to interfer w/ the wider radiator. ''Dumb now that I look back!" But it`s all good tho.
 
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