engine build tec needed

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memike

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Here is a 318 rebuild kit that I have had and I could use some help from a tec here to make sure this will work in a 86 block that cam out of a truck.
The part numbers and what quality do I have here, it was bought a few years ago and I Really Really could use some help on what I have :colors:
I may even put it up for grabs here for some one building a 318 .
The last Picture is the box I got it in, not sure if it originally came in

I know I am asking allot :colors: Thank you for any help :colors:
 

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A stock rebuild kit that will work for your engine......030 over pistons and .010 under main bearings from what I see pictured.....no performance pieces if that's what your looking for...??????

Rickster
 
Mike that should work my last engine was an 86 318 out of a truck as well all that was different was the lifters and it had the spider thing on them (cant remember the real name right now)

Just make sure the block can accept the .30 over pistons and the .010 under main bearings and you will be good
 
From what I could look up it looks like you have the .030 over cast pistons for about 8.5 compression with stock open chambers. You need to check deck height though for sure. Blue head gaskets MLS probably high side of .040 compressed. If you are gonna run the aluminum intake get a different set of those since the ones you have are meant for an iron intake. Oil pump is a stocker. Main and rod bearings are .010/.010. All the numbers seem to jive and will work on your engine. As long as the machining is ok to those specs of course.
 
A stock rebuild kit that will work for your engine......030 over pistons and .010 under main bearings from what I see pictured.....no performance pieces if that's what your looking for...??????

Rickster
That is what I am looking for and just change to an stock RV cam and line bore to match crank and light balanced rods to the bearings.
Thank you Rickster sir :rock:

Mike that should work my last engine was an 86 318 out of a truck as well all that was different was the lifters and it had the spider thing on them (cant remember the real name right now)

Just make sure the block can accept the .30 over pistons and the .010 under main bearings and you will be good
I am sure :mrgreen: or I hope the block will take a 030 punch :colors: The crank and block will be line bored and checked before I put a gasket or bearing in it, Thank you 6dart9 :rock:
do you have thread or pictures of the build, or like me I did not use digital camera's back then :glasses8:. Thank you very much

Looks like GE surplus
Is that a good thing for a new power plant for a driver ? General Equipment ?

Wish I had the answersss memike.
I hear that brother , That's why I am asking :mrgreen: It's always good to have a fresh small block Mopar engine ready to use :rock:
Building a fresh one for the Ramcharger :colors:

From what I could look up it looks like you have the .030 over cast pistons for about 8.5 compression with stock open chambers. You need to check deck height though for sure. Blue head gaskets MLS probably high side of .040 compressed. If you are gonna run the aluminum intake get a different set of those since the ones you have are meant for an iron intake. Oil pump is a stocker. Main and rod bearings are .010/.010. All the numbers seem to jive and will work on your engine. As long as the machining is ok to those specs of course.
Thank you camd64 :thumleft: Glad you and everyone chimed in for me 8)
Johnny Dart made sure I had a perfect aluminum intake for the 318 :eek:ccasion:

Oh and the cam specs are .372 lift, 110 L/C, 264 duration
The Tech support here is soo great Thank you again :rock:
 
Originally Posted by 67Baccaruda
Looks like GE surplus

The ship to address on your box is a General Electric plant.
 
Originally Posted by 67Baccaruda
Looks like GE surplus

The ship to address on your box is a General Electric plant.
I see now :colors:, We have a G.E plant in town or did a couple years ago till it shut down, so I bet a worker saved on some shipping charger and had it sent to his work, Not unles he was hiding it from his wife :toothy9:
Thank you 67Baccaruda :rock: I paid $100 for it and drug it out of storage :glasses8: a couple days ago.
 
More like GE threw the entire inventory of the plant in the dumpster and someone salvaged it. We threw millions in the dumpster last summer sinful.
 
If you are using an aluminum intake you will need some paper/composite intke gaskets.

you could try those metal pieces with a generous amount of rtv ...but they will more than likely leak and suck oil....though if the machining is perfect and the there is no gap...
 
More like GE threw the entire inventory of the plant in the dumpster and someone salvaged it. We threw millions in the dumpster last summer sinful.
Our GE plant built/assembled electric motors and small transmissions of some kind:) why would they have a 318 rebuild kit in there inventory here in Jonesboro ?

If you are using an aluminum intake you will need some paper/composite intke gaskets.

you could try those metal pieces with a generous amount of rtv ...but they will more than likely leak and suck oil....though if the machining is perfect and the there is no gap...
:tongue9: my last 360 I used the metal gaskets with copper coat spray and a very thin coat of Indian sealer on the aluminum intake side :pale: Did I just get lucky ?

lol :scratch::dontknow: should I use the paper gasket like 1wild&crazyguy said and recommended, he is a good tech here or are you laughing about it possibly got thrown in the dumpster ?
 
when the heads get milled,/block decked or even diff heads being used other than it had....or when intake is an aftermarket piece ...thing don't always line up super tight...which is a good reason for a thicker gasket, let alone it's a bi metal situation where when/if the copper coat or whatever gives to corrsion forming...it's will leak.

Mine ran good at 1st, then blew smoke out of the passenger exhaust bank cause it started sucking oil....let alone the tiny lil white veins on the dip stick=water in oil.

If you're determined to use them or ?...then better hang'em on a coat hanger and then spray the ever living sht out of them with the copper coat and let them dry....then when installing them use black rtv at the water passages still.
 
when the heads get milled,/block decked or even diff heads being used other than it had....or when intake is an aftermarket piece ...thing don't always line up super tight...which is a good reason for a thicker gasket, let alone it's a bi metal situation where when/if the copper coat or whatever gives to corrsion forming...it's will leak.

Mine ran good at 1st, then blew smoke out of the passenger exhaust bank cause it started sucking oil....let alone the tiny lil white veins on the dip stick=water in oil.

If you're determined to use them or ?...then better hang'em on a coat hanger and then spray the ever living sht out of them with the copper coat and let them dry....then when installing them use black rtv at the water passages still.

Thank you 1wild&crazyguy :colors: I will not be using the metal gaskets :glasses8:
Another tech adviser has agreed and said you are steering me right and I will be using a Edelbrock #7276 intake manifold gasket for this intake :colors:
Thank you for your great advice :rock:.
Johnny Dart sure fixed me up on this west coast find :rock:
 

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Most GE facilities Have or had a vehicle maintenance departments. We build Large Steam Turbine and Generators, but we still buy a ton of parts to repair trucks, powered lifts, fork trucks, Cushmans, Bobcats, JLG's, Fire dept fleet, Securety fleet. etc.
 
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