I'm considering running my soon to be rebuilt 340 on a test stand before I install it in my Swinger which is under restoration. I've built a test stand for an air cooled engine which was a lot simpler and cheaper. I don't want to be working on the engine after its installed should any issues arise. Has anyone used the K member as part of the test stand. I'm wondering if its easier to bolt the k frame to a dolly than fabricate engine mounts. The only other issue is the expense of making a control panel. I would run at minimum starter relay switch, oil pressure and water temperature gauges. Perhaps there is something off the shelf I could use....haven't searched yet. I could use the rad I was going to install and temporarily adapt mufflers to the TTI manifold down pipes I'm planning on using. Ideas or suggestions appreciated. I have time for this build.
Engine Test Stand using K member?
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You would still have to fabricate mounts for the rear of the engine, or have the transmission attached and sitting on the ground.
4mulas
Fixem'up
Sounds like a sound idea, maybe a bit complicated in the engineering department, maybe just as easy to make a test stand if you have fabrication abilities?
Yeah I think I would mount the 4 speed gearbox and fab a support for it
I have see run stands (not based on a k-frame) use a bellhousing only. There is an earlier bellhousing (not A-833) that could possibly be a cheap score.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Frankly I see nothing wrong with your idea. You say "dolly" do you already have one? If not they are not that hard to build if you can cut/ weld basic metal, square tube, channel, etc. As others said you need a transmission installed or at least a flywheel/ bell and and something to anchor the rear of the engine.
Trans: Automatic would require a jumper tube for the cooler, a rear yoke, and ATF installed. You don't want to do so dry.
Without a trans, you need a bell/ flywheel/ starter and fabricate some bracket from the bell to anchor the rear, not difficult
Alternatively, you could use a flywheel and fab a plate to mount the starter. I have used just the engine plate off a scattershield. This is not "right" but I have "other starters" so if I break one it's no big deal
You really should at least fill the engine with coolant, even if no rad, so you'd need a jumper hose / tube of some sort to bring the lower outlet up even/ near the top outlet.
Controls? Really all you need is an oil pressure gauge, and maybe a temp gauge, but you can use "your hands" or a handheld infra red thermometer. They are nowadays cheap and easy
Electrically you need a simple ignition system, a battery and battery cables, and just basic jumpers to operate the starter.
What you have for a distributor will determine that. I often use an HEI module and coil "in a box."
This works with Mopar style breakerless distributors
I know it's "redneck" I've even test fired engines for a short time on an an engine stand, with makeshift support under the pan
This here is about the most redneck "engine run" I ever did..........
www.forabodiesonly.com
Made redneck adapter to mount AFB carb onto EFI magnum
Engine stand, engine plate, flywheel, starter mount........
A little "support"........
The emergency ignition box + a breakerless dist.............
Trans: Automatic would require a jumper tube for the cooler, a rear yoke, and ATF installed. You don't want to do so dry.
Without a trans, you need a bell/ flywheel/ starter and fabricate some bracket from the bell to anchor the rear, not difficult
Alternatively, you could use a flywheel and fab a plate to mount the starter. I have used just the engine plate off a scattershield. This is not "right" but I have "other starters" so if I break one it's no big deal
You really should at least fill the engine with coolant, even if no rad, so you'd need a jumper hose / tube of some sort to bring the lower outlet up even/ near the top outlet.
Controls? Really all you need is an oil pressure gauge, and maybe a temp gauge, but you can use "your hands" or a handheld infra red thermometer. They are nowadays cheap and easy
Electrically you need a simple ignition system, a battery and battery cables, and just basic jumpers to operate the starter.
What you have for a distributor will determine that. I often use an HEI module and coil "in a box."
This works with Mopar style breakerless distributors
I know it's "redneck" I've even test fired engines for a short time on an an engine stand, with makeshift support under the pan
This here is about the most redneck "engine run" I ever did..........
LMFAO Anybody figure out what this is?
Yeh, it's an adapter Yeh, a carb goes on it HINT: It's temporary. It's Mopar. It's NOT for a slant six or a V10
www.forabodiesonly.com
Made redneck adapter to mount AFB carb onto EFI magnum
Engine stand, engine plate, flywheel, starter mount........
A little "support"........
The emergency ignition box + a breakerless dist.............
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You can make a run stand as complicated or as simple as you like.
Old friend of mine used to set the engine and trans on a couple of old tires in the shop floor and start it up.
Guy on ebay sells a bracket for big blocks to attach the starter without a bellhousing. Not sure if there is such a thing for a small block.
I've seen guys run VW engines on the floor. I guess you could run water through it with a garden hose but then you need to mount a coil, ECU, etc. Mine won't be quite that simple
I'm not worried about the starter as I can just use my bellhousing or mount the whole gearbox. I'm going to mount it all on the K member and roll it under the car when I'm done anyway.
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
I made one with a k frame
If I were going to use a K frame I would use 66-72 B or E body as they are the same for small and big block if I remember right.
Heavy duty!
I saved the front frame ralls, transmission crossmember, core support and K frame from an early A I parted out. The K is the same for LA and slants with the only the motor mounts being different.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Too bad you‘re not closer, I’d give you mine. It’s in the way and I don’t need it any more.
A friend and his son helped me out with this US Cartool replica. I have to say, there was an oversight. I was hoping that this dolly could be something that could have the engine/trans/suspension installed by lowering the body over it but nope. The way the k-frame rests on the dolly is that there are two studs that go through the two front k-frame bolt locations. If the k-frame was supported in a way that did not use the bolt holes it could work.
There's no reason this dolly couldn't be used as a run stand.
There's no reason this dolly couldn't be used as a run stand.
Shipping would be a killer
If I used my k frame I would have to be able to lift the engine, k frame and tranny as a unit and drop it on a cart to roll under the car for installation. I know some of the k frame carts are too high making it tough to slide under a car unless its on a 2 post lift. All I am accomplishing with this idea is the elimination of motor mount support fabrication which would take a bit of work. I've got enough to do.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Well look why not kill it all in one take? Build a K frame dolly and they are just not that hard, to do an install, and USE it pretty much as is to run the engine?
I threw one together and built it with short "fake" hitch receiver type construction, so it all comes apart Somewhere on here I had a thread about it. My situation is a bit different, because I have an (outdoor!!) 2 post, so the dolly in my case can be quite high, but smaller casters etc, can "fix" that.........
(Found the thread, it's "dead" "Thanks" to photophucket.............)
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