EQ heads, Chevy rockers and what studs?

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dusterdoug

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Users of the EQ and RHS heads with the magnum style stud mounted rockers, I could sure use your help.

I have ARP 5/16 to 3/8 conversion rocker studs and they seem to be the wrong length with Comp Chevy roller rockers. The lock is way too far down once proper lash is obtained. So I’m curious of those you who have been down this road:

What rocker studs and 1.5 rockers have you found that WORKS?

Thank you!
 
Pushrod length is likely off.
If you are saying the locking screw is too deep inside the poly lock, then your pushrods are probably too long so the poly lock does not screw down far enough. Check your rocker position to be sure.
I have Comp studs but have not test fitted them yet, although your question is the same for all stud mounted rockers.
 
I will be watching this as well. I mocked a set of the 1.6 ratio, steel, roller tip chevys on an EQ head. Adjustable length checking push rod installed. Geometry was HORRIBLE! Shorten the pushrod to where you have minimum clearance between rocker body and retainer, lengthen the pushrod to get the roller centered on the valve, and, either way, it wants to roll of the exhaust side of the valve tip.
 
I had problems with my locking nuts travelling too far down the stud which prevented the allen set screw having enough threads to lock down the adjustment nut. I bought thick grade 8 washers (.1 inch thick if I remember) to move the adjustment nut up the shaft a bit. I have not had any issues, although I have only broke in the engine and started it a dozen times or so since. I will be driving my car a week or so for a shakedown. Oh yeah, mine were 1.6 roller rockers on my EQ heads.

IMG_4450.JPG
 
The EQ heads are made to be direct replacements for factory Magnum heads. The same problems occur with factory heads, so the problem is not the EQ heads themselves, it is actually the design of the Magnum heads. The short valves cause short installed heights, then the rocker stud location is not ideal.
This is probably why some guys prefer the Indy RHS heads with LA rocker shaft setups, then B3RE can make his fix for the location.
If you switch to an aftermarket rocker setup like a T&D or Crower, maybe it can be corrected.
Hope someone with experience relocating the studs chimes in.
 
I have ARP 5/16 to 3/8 conversion rocker studs and they seem to be the wrong length with Comp Chevy roller rockers. The lock is way too far down once proper lash is obtained. So I’m curious of those you who have been down this road:

What rocker studs and 1.5 rockers have you found that WORKS?

Thank you!
May as well ask; are you running stock Magnum length valves?
 
The valves are stock length for a magnum application, yes. Comp 26995 beehive springs, Comp aluminum rockers.

My adjustable pushrod checker has been set so that I have a very near perfect roller tip sweep on valve tip the though out the rotation of the motor.

This problem must be caused by the rocker and stud combination that I have.
 
I had problems with my locking nuts travelling too far down the stud which prevented the allen set screw having enough threads to lock down the adjustment nut. I bought thick grade 8 washers (.1 inch thick if I remember) to move the adjustment nut up the shaft a bit. I have not had any issues, although I have only broke in the engine and started it a dozen times or so since. I will be driving my car a week or so for a shakedown. Oh yeah, mine were 1.6 roller rockers on my EQ heads.

View attachment 1715198897

I’m curious. You don’t happen to have pics of this do you?
 
Maybe it’s best to go with a hydraulic and stock magnum rockers. Grrrrrrrr!!!
 
The valves are stock length for a magnum application, yes.

My adjustable pushrod checker has determined that I have a very near perfect roller sweep on valve tip the though out the rotation of the motor.
 
Here is a pic of the rocker with the valve closed and the best position for stem tip sweep.

3C5707DF-BC35-4819-B009-09B812A87B83.jpeg
 
What rocker studs and 1.5 rockers have you found that WORKS?

Thank you!

Is this a magnum engine? Magnums use 1.6 ratio arms is why I'm asking.

Maybe it’s best to go with a hydraulic and stock magnum rockers. Grrrrrrrr!!!

So you're using a solid cam ... hmm I wonder why a solid would cause your issue.
 
Sorry that was a typo. Yes the rockers are 1.6.

I was thinking the use of a hydraulic would allow the use of OE rockers, or a non adjustable OE application roller rocker, like the Harlan Sharpe.
 
My adjustable pushrod checker has determined that I have a very near perfect roller sweep on valve tip the though out the rotation of the motor.
What are you calling 'near perfect' sweep? Such that it doest not roll off of the exhasut side of the stem tip, and that the sweep is centered?

I'm seriously not trying to upset you at all, but wanting to make a useful comment. In the end shot of the rocker, the pivot looks waaay low. Does your roller tip roll a long way across the tip? That is not near to ideal. The sweep pattern begin centered is not the way to set the rockers ideally. Minimizing the sweep width and not being to close to either edge is the goal.

I'm gonna say that:
- the studs are too short; the rocker pivot looks like it needs to be a lot higher
- the studs need to be relocated further towards the intake side for the length of the rockers on the valve side for this rocker.

Which all goes back to your question of what have others found that actually WORKS?

And... B3RE is probably on his way back from Carlisle right now.
 
dusterdoug,
nm9 is pretty much right on the money here. Unfortunately, small block Mopars, including the Magnum engines, use a very short rocker. The small block Chevy roller rocker is a little longer, and being a roller, needs to be raised a bunch to have proper geometry. That makes the stud too short, not too long. It also means the roller is right on the edge of the valve tip, if not falling off altogether.

You're not alone here. Even a Chevy has these issues when using a roller rocker on an otherwise stock stock replacement head. See the attached pics. Because the problem is the same as a Chevy, the fix is also the same as a Chevy, and it's likely to depress you. The rocker stud holes in the heads need to be relocated for acceptable valve tip alignment, and big block Chevy screw in studs need to be used to allow the rocker to be raised enough for minimal sweep, which is true geometry. That centered sweep has been deligitimized so many times, I can't believe it's still being advised.

Your choices are narrowed down to, as you mentioned, going hydraulic with stock rockers, or, the extra machining work I mentioned above. The extra work is the best approach, but stock rockers and a hydraulic cam will probably be cheaper. Once again, it's not in the rocker, per se, but in the fact that head wasn't designed for a roller rocker, even though the roller is a better performance choice when properly set up.
20180606_142403.jpg
20180621_134738.jpg
20180707_160523.jpg

Notice the pattern is not perfectly centered, but the roller barely moves across the tip of the valve. I couldn't move the stud hole enough to get it perfectly centered, yet it has perfect true geometry and will run circles around an engine with a centered sweep that is, in many cases, three to four times that width. And, it will live a lot longer.
 
Thank you very much for that information!!
 
Once again B3RE has is dead on. Here was my solution with the EQ cylinder head.

Valves were 2.02/1.625 +.100 Magnum
Scorpion rockers 1.5 ratio SCP3001
Jomar stud girdle 1194 w/ recommended rocker arm poly locks from Jomar
AFR guide plates 6103
Rocker arm studs were 7/16 ARP 135-7101

There is a description and pictures of the EQ head work here.............

T.N.A.C.C.B.P.P. EQ360
 
The rocker stud holes in the heads need to be relocated for acceptable valve tip alignment, and big block Chevy screw in studs need to be used to allow the rocker to be raised enough for minimal sweep, which is true geometry./QUOTE].

Have you moved the studs on the EQ Magnum heads; is there enough material in those little cast bosses to move the studs and retain reliability?
Your input on this thread is greatly appreciated, and also thanks for making the correction kits you offer for LA heads and big block heads. I'll be contacting you for a couple of those hopefully in the near future.
 
Once again B3RE has is dead on. Here was my solution with the EQ cylinder head.

Valves were 2.02/1.625 +.100 Magnum
Scorpion rockers 1.5 ratio SCP3001
Jomar stud girdle 1194 w/ recommended rocker arm poly locks from Jomar
AFR guide plates 6103
Rocker arm studs were 7/16 ARP 135-7101

There is a description and pictures of the EQ head work here.............

T.N.A.C.C.B.P.P. EQ360
Thank you Jim, I had forgotten about that thread. I've done the magnums before, but didn't have any pics, so the Chevy head was the best I could do here. Much as gracias, amigo!
 
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