lol Thanks!
Every day economy build
- Thread starter Larry the Valiant
- Start date
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I have a few left.
The early-A era heads have a less effecient combustion chamber, with the plug towards You chamber-up, it should resemble a wry smile if it is the improved one.....up/tighter to the exhaust valve.
Terrible description, don't quit your day job. LOL Here, show him some pictures with an article. LOL
But I already quit My day job,....... now what ?,..... Mr. Linkey McLinkerton..........*says w/a wry smile*..
lol
Badvert65
Long Time Mopar Nut
I used to still have a few of those. I will have to look to see if any are available.
To the OP. Doug Dutra is the godfather of slant drag racing. Doug was looking for power at full throttle and high RPM most of the time. If this is for your wife (like mine was) she will likely not care if the engine makes power at 5000 RPM
mine just wanted a nice running dependable cruiser that made enough torque to keep with todays traffic and have enough to pass slower cars and trucks when you step on it. Power improvements are incremental on any engine and you have keep in mind a modification that add 10% on a 500HP motor is 50HP, noticeable. A slant making 200HP that is 20HP.... noticeable on the street? Probably barely. Noticeable on the track to get that extra few tenth edge, yes. It is easy to get carried away with what you want to do with these but the 3 mods that have been outlined here will give you the biggest bang for the buck (outside of forced injection).
- More compression
- More carb
- better exhaust (split exhaust with a Y back behind the crossmember is the gold standard but just opening up the stock manifold and larger pipe to the back helps)
Anything past that the horsepower per dollar becomes very very high for the incremental improvements it will give.
Jim
Dave999
Well-Known Member
Ohh
turbo and ecconomy
LPG/propane, Impco gas carb, hi flow, boost referenced, coolant heated regulator, LPG cam and a nice big turbo.....
Propane is supposed to be equivalent of 106-110 Octane fuel.... the carb by its very nature is sealed and has no float to be crushed... and the octane of the fuel is higher than pump gas
COMPLETE IMPCO PROPANE CONVERSION KIT SLANT 6 ENGINE DODGE CHRYSLER MOPAR LPG | eBay UK
but id look for a BIG OHG branded gas carb and a 450 or 500 regulator
Inspiration for a slightly more conventional route
expensive
Cheap--er
Dave
turbo and ecconomy
LPG/propane, Impco gas carb, hi flow, boost referenced, coolant heated regulator, LPG cam and a nice big turbo.....
Propane is supposed to be equivalent of 106-110 Octane fuel.... the carb by its very nature is sealed and has no float to be crushed... and the octane of the fuel is higher than pump gas
COMPLETE IMPCO PROPANE CONVERSION KIT SLANT 6 ENGINE DODGE CHRYSLER MOPAR LPG | eBay UK
but id look for a BIG OHG branded gas carb and a 450 or 500 regulator
Inspiration for a slightly more conventional route
expensive
Cheap--er
Dave
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Sounds like you have good cylinders with minimum wear. Perhaps a freshening will be adequate, unless you just want to go ahead and rebuild the entire engine and spend more $. If so, go ahead and take off the .1
I would add the 2 bbl "super six set up".
Be sure to have a good distributor with a correct curve.
I have had several solid and hydraulic lifter engines, and never had any issue with any, lucky maybe.
Clean gas tank and good working radiator.
Good trans.
I would add the 2 bbl "super six set up".
Be sure to have a good distributor with a correct curve.
I have had several solid and hydraulic lifter engines, and never had any issue with any, lucky maybe.
Clean gas tank and good working radiator.
Good trans.
Lou madsen over on the other site ("Dart270") recently talked about weight differences between the various years. On the collar for the small converter to big crank Greg ("slantsix" here) ondayko had some at one time as did (I believe) Rick covalt
Greg is here occasionally as is Rick (less so) but in the other site all the time. I believe Doug dutra also had some comments on weight of different blocks and cranks "over there"
Greg is here occasionally as is Rick (less so) but in the other site all the time. I believe Doug dutra also had some comments on weight of different blocks and cranks "over there"
Oh yeah something else to beware of
Standard grade "rebuilder" pistons (brands like badger, silv o lite, sealed power)you're more than likely gonna find that the piston height at tdc is shorter than the stock original pistons were, lowering the compression ratio.
Add that every aftermarket head gasket is thicker than original and a further reduction. So that makes a block and head shave that much more important just to keep status quo. I milled my block 0.030 and my new pistons are STILL 0.180" in the hole. Pitiful. Had I known that was gonna be the case id have had even more taken off the block. As it was, that was in addition to 0.070 off the head. I used one of the early (mid 70s) "peanut" heads.
With everything all measured up that put me exactly at 8.4:1 which is what every Mitchell, Chilton's and motors manuals advertised that they were supposed to be stock from the factory (damn few actually measured up to that)
Standard grade "rebuilder" pistons (brands like badger, silv o lite, sealed power)you're more than likely gonna find that the piston height at tdc is shorter than the stock original pistons were, lowering the compression ratio.
Add that every aftermarket head gasket is thicker than original and a further reduction. So that makes a block and head shave that much more important just to keep status quo. I milled my block 0.030 and my new pistons are STILL 0.180" in the hole. Pitiful. Had I known that was gonna be the case id have had even more taken off the block. As it was, that was in addition to 0.070 off the head. I used one of the early (mid 70s) "peanut" heads.
With everything all measured up that put me exactly at 8.4:1 which is what every Mitchell, Chilton's and motors manuals advertised that they were supposed to be stock from the factory (damn few actually measured up to that)
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