Everything Dies When I Go to Start SOLVED!

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ChrisRomello

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Hello all,
I finally have the Crusty Biscuit at the body shop for paint! Everything was working fine up until I went to start the car to drive it up on the trailer.
Here’s my issue:
I turn the key on without starting and everything works; the fuel pump starts priming, Holley sniper display turns on, and the compressors for my air suspension system turn on. BUT, when I turn the key to start the engine everything dies! I can’t get anything to turn on immediately after that but if I wait a couple minutes it will all come back on like normal.

I haven’t done much to troubleshoot the problem but here’s what I have done:

Charged battery overnight, it reads 12.2 volts on my sniper efi display

I tried jumping the starter relay but that won’t get the starter to work

Checked and tightened all power wires and grounds

I feel like the issue is starter related, I recently removed the starter wires to install a heat shield on them to protect them from the exhaust. It worked fine several times after that but of corse when it’s show time something decides to goof up!
 
Remove and clean battery post conntections. If that does not fix it get multimeter or at least a test lamp and post back here
 
I believe, since you are using a fuel injection set up, you have to wire things up a bit differently. 12 volts must be provided to the system, at all times (with key on, and in the start position). You didn't mention what you are using for an ignition system, and that may come into play as well, if you are using the ballast resistor. You would have to isolate that system from the rest. 12.2 is, believe it or not, actually low -especially after charging. You should check connections, and possibly parasitic / ignition off draw, too; but let's get the starting issue fixed first.
 
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tap the clamps with a hammer lightly and see if it fixes it. Probably just loose or corroded under the clamps.
 
12.2v is a dead battery if measured at the terminals. If the measurement is taken somewhere else, you might be getting voltage drop & the battery in fact measures the fully charged 12.6-7 volts. So check at the battery posts.
 
Hello all,
I finally have the Crusty Biscuit at the body shop for paint! Everything was working fine up until I went to start the car to drive it up on the trailer.
Here’s my issue:
I turn the key on without starting and everything works; the fuel pump starts priming, Holley sniper display turns on, and the compressors for my air suspension system turn on. BUT, when I turn the key to start the engine everything dies! I can’t get anything to turn on immediately after that but if I wait a couple minutes it will all come back on like normal.

I haven’t done much to troubleshoot the problem but here’s what I have done:

Charged battery overnight, it reads 12.2 volts on my sniper efi display

I tried jumping the starter relay but that won’t get the starter to work

Checked and tightened all power wires and grounds

I feel like the issue is starter related, I recently removed the starter wires to install a heat shield on them to protect them from the exhaust. It worked fine several times after that but of corse when it’s show time something decides to goof up!
Initially I think the guys above suggesting bad battery cables or clamps are correct, but you need to define "everything dies"
When you hit the key...does all power go away, and it's as if the battery isn't even in the car? No horn....no sniper power...no lights.. nothing

Or...

Is it cranking, but just won't start?
 
If everything literally dies as in ZERO power anywhere, I go along with battery terminals not making good contact, bad ground(s) or other loose BIG connections.
 
He's not run the car a ton, so 12.2V could be "normal" for "right this minute".
 
Sometimes old cables will go bad if you cut back the insulation green powder will be in between the strands, however this would be an extreme case of an original battery cable
 
He said he charged it all night for a 12.2 volt reading.....If the sniper is reporting this, it must be close as it gets direct power from the battery. How's the gravity of the battery acid? Are the cells filled up to the top of the grates (not overflowing between cells) you can pop the 2 square vents and check. Jumping the battery should have bypassed the corroded terminals. Does the starter click (solenoid sliding over): if that is audibly heard, the contact in the starter is bad or corroded itself as the starter motor contact is directly tied to the solenoid action. Usually if the starter cuts power even to the dome light its a corroded battery connection.
 
Thank you everyone for you responses. Everything is BRAND NEW. I believe as some have mentioned there might be an issue with the terminals at the battery.
 
With battery terminals, from my experience, you will sometimes hear a low "click" but it is at the battery terminal, and yes all lights in the dash etc. will go dead, next time it does that, turn headlights or parking lights on, go out and wiggle battery terminals, see if the lights come back on. Its a valid test .Mechanics call it "the wiggle test"
 
I believe, since you are using a fuel injection set up, you have to wire things up a bit differently. 12 volts must be provided to the system, at all times (with key on, and in the start position). You didn't mention what you are using for an ignition system, and that may come into play as well, if you are using the ballast resistor. You would have to isolate that system from the rest. 12.2 is, believe it or not, actually low -especially after charging. You should check connections, and possibly parasitic / ignition off draw, too; but let's get the starting issue fixed first.
EFI wiring has nothing to do with power to the car or cranking the starter
 
Thank you everyone for you responses. Everything is BRAND NEW. I believe as some have mentioned there might be an issue with the terminals at the battery.
Battery terminals can REALLY screw with you. They can get a thin oxide that LOOKS OK but won't carry current. Get yourself a battery cleaner tool / brush and clean the posts and clamps up shiny then install them

HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT

You say it won't crank. This actually makes things easier because it's a problem in the "primary" part of the power---the starter/ battery cables--and possible starter relay.

1...to eliminate the starter relay, jumper across the two large bare terminals......the big stud and the "square" screw terminal.

2...This only leaves a few possibilities............no particular order.......
A......the battery clamps/ posts
B......the battery cables, corroded internally or poor crimps
C......the other end, eyelets, loose at connection, rusted, poor crimps
D ......the wire from the solenoid "square screw" down to the solenoid or it's connections
E.......Unlikely trouble in starter as you say you are losing ALL power. ARE YOU? To be certain, turn on the headlights and try to jump starter at starter relay. Do the headlights go out?
F....Dead or defective battery

HOW TO FIND. Learn to use a meter or even test lamp

1...Put meter lamp onto engine block and stab into top of NEG terminal. Jump relay. If you get a reading or light, the ground cable is bad or bad connections in that path. Put meter / light onto battery post clamp and stab into NEG cable. If you get reading or light, with starter jumped, cable clamp is not making connection to post

2...Same thing on positive cable

3...This gets "3 handed" It is best to go direct to battery POSTS but you just can't "2 handed"....clip meter or light to one batt clamp, stab the other into top of the opposite battery POST. Now jump relay. LOSS of light or reading shows battery is down, dead, or just plain defective. A BRAND NEW battery can be defective

Twice in my life I've had batteries that evidently broke the internal connections, and did similar. It would just plain lose all power, just like a switch.
 
I just brought my battery to the autopsy store to be tested and it tested good. Now to figure out the wiring…
 
EFI wiring has nothing to do with power to the car or cranking the starter

You're right, and no where in my post, do I indicate that it does. I do see/understand how it can come off that way. My response was a product of not reading through the entire OP, right away. I took it for a crank/ no start concern, missing the fact he wasn't getting anything out of the starter as well.
 
You're right, and no where in my post, do I indicate that it does. I do see/understand how it can come off that way. My response was a product of not reading through the entire OP, right away. I took it for a crank/ no start concern, missing the fact he wasn't getting anything out of the starter as well.
No big, I'm guilty as well LOL Few days ago I missed that make/ model was IN THE TITLE LOL
 
I was able to figure out the problem today.
First I took the battery to the autoparts store to have it checked (easy since it’s right down the street)
Then I spent some time examining the wires and all the grounds looked good.
Finally I removed the nut from the lug on the post of the starter relay; I have several cables attached to it and I realized that the heat shrink from other cables got in between the starter cable and the other cables on both sides! I reattached it making sure there was good connection, turned the key, and everything worked. Thanks all for your help!
 
I was able to figure out the problem today.
First I took the battery to the autoparts store to have it checked (easy since it’s right down the street)
Then I spent some time examining the wires and all the grounds looked good.
Finally I removed the nut from the lug on the post of the starter relay; I have several cables attached to it and I realized that the heat shrink from other cables got in between the starter cable and the other cables on both sides! I reattached it making sure there was good connection, turned the key, and everything worked. Thanks all for your help!

Well, at least now, you can laugh about it. Glad it's "fixed."
 
Actually if those are all properly done they should work fine. The marine outfits and wire products distros do have some decent single stud terminal blocks and feed through studs and so on
 
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