Factory BBP on 7.25 axle

-
There's a pretty large yard in eastern PA called Englers. I'd have had better odds if the Aspen/Volare 7 1/4 could have fit my 69 as there are a bunch in the yard. I'll start looking when the weather gets cooler and the brush looses its leaves. I'm just curious what a rear end should cost if I'm pulling it myself.
Also, seeing that it will be a well used rear end, what type of rebuild should be done to it?
 
I wouldn't rebuild a 7.25 rear again. I did one for the experience only. It is a simple and easy chunk to set up. The parts required are just as expensive as any other.
 
Pick a part yards in my locality (one is 50 miles away, other 100) have very little in old mopar parts. One yard doesn't keep anything older than 1986, and the other wants sky high prices for their goods..

I found one fella that has about a dozen or so A-bodies in his pasture, most have /6 & he wants ~$800 for entire car
 
It's getting very difficult to find A bodies around eastern PA. If you do spot one, it looks like the bleached bones you see in the desert.....not a scape of meat left on them. In fact in one yard the owner had to point out the 68 Barracuda, it was so picked over I didn't recognize it. Not sure why he didn't crush it.
 
Here's what I would do. I would find a member within a weekend trip distance who has a lbp 7.25 laying under foot. If it still has springs attached you're golden. If not you will need to buy 4 U bolts before you hit the road. Swap the sbp 7.25 for the lbp 7.25 right there on sight. All done, the donor still has his scrap metal weight value and possible resale value in the sbp drums you leave behind.
the donor needs to be willing to work with you though. A trip to a tire store and probably a part store will be req'd. If you already have adapters on the rear allowing you to run lbp wheels on you sbp rear, you won't need the tire store or even the lug nuts.
 
Back in the early 80s I was looking for a LBB front disc brake donor. Bro-in-law found a T-bone totaled 73 gold Duster in a field near him ( about 300 miles from me ). He got me a phone number and I talked with the owner. The old guy asked what he could do to help me. he took his tractor out there and flipped the wreck upside down. I had a relative to stay with so I did make a weekend trip of it but I pulled the needed parts in an hour using hand tools I took with me.
 
Try putting an ad up wanting to buy a complete BBP 7 1/4 rear end. You might get lucky. I doubt the people that have them laying around are looking at this thread.
 
I love stories with a happy ending!
I wish I could get yard owners to flip cars. I've had them offer to lift the car while I crawl under......I refused. Whenever I go to a yard I now bring a cordless Sawzall, makes fast work out of some very rusted on parts.
 
RedFish said:
Here's what I would do. I would find a member within a weekend trip distance who has a lbp 7.25 laying under foot. If it still has springs attached you're golden. If not you will need to buy 4 U bolts before you hit the road. Swap the sbp 7.25 for the lbp 7.25 right there on sight. All done, the donor still has his scrap metal weight value and possible resale value in the sbp drums you leave behind.
the donor needs to be willing to work with you though. A trip to a tire store and probably a part store will be req'd. If you already have adapters on the rear allowing you to run lbp wheels on you sbp rear, you won't need the tire store or even the lug nuts.
Click to expand...

Question, why will I need new U bolts?
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Axle tubes are bigger on the 73 up rear end.
Click to expand...

Not the reason. Odds are you wont twist all 8 nuts off the stock U bolts without twisting or breaking at least one. The U bolts aren't supposed to be reused anyway because they get twisted which weakens the steel.
The stock nuts are what they call scored nuts. Tiny square indentions that distort the threads. Use a torch and heat them quickly and a impact will zip them right off but ... Got torch ?
Lifes much sweeter if you'll plan to cut your U bolts and install 35 bucks worth of new ones.
Like I stated before... if the rear was dropped at the spring hangers, you're golden. Install it springs and all.
 
RedFish said:
Not the reason. Odds are you wont twist all 8 nuts off the stock U bolts without twisting or breaking at least one. The U bolts aren't supposed to be reused anyway because they get twisted which weakens the steel.
The stock nuts are what they call scored nuts. Tiny square indentions that distort the threads. Use a torch and heat them quickly and a impact will zip them right off but ... Got torch ?
Lifes much sweeter if you'll plan to cut your U bolts and install 35 bucks worth of new ones.
Like I stated before... if the rear was dropped at the spring hangers, you're golden. Install it springs and all.
Click to expand...

I have always ben told the axle tubes were bigger on the later 7 1/4... Is that not accurate? If not I apologize for telling him wrong.
 
Nope, 8.25 and 8.75 are larger. All 7.25 are the same.
Honestly... I've never measured them so there might be as much as a 1/4 inch difference in the OD of the tubing. Same U bolts will work though.
 
Sometime after 1979 or 80 the 7-1/4's did go to 3" axle tubes. Apparently to save money by having only one type of isolator axle mount plates. Have not seen one but my daily experience stops at 1980.
 
I did see on a larger mopar, forget what it was, a large tube axle that swedged down to the "normal" 7 1/4 differential..some wheres here someone has made mention of that iirc..
 
Look for BBP under 73 and later disk brake equipped cars. The 4-wheel drum brake cars used the 4-inch pattern. Avoid those with 2.45:1 or 2.21:1 ratios. I did see an outfit on the internet that had 3.55:1 gears and up for the 7¼-inch rear end. Sorry, don't remember site.

The BBP 7¼-inch axle shafts are longer and the backing plates on the BBP are different, too. Haven't compared the drums to see if it might be worthwhile to drill them out to fit.

Supply is dwindling. I knew a fellow down here that was cutting them up and making big bike trikes with them. Light, cheap, and plentiful.
 
Wish I could find one near me in York NE. I have a Volare to donate the front disk brakes but no bbp 7 1/4 to make both ends match. I want a 7 1/4 for the weight savings and lower power requirements to spin it. I'm building a 62 valiant for mpg and will not be pushing it at all. My budget is tight and my timeline is long but I know what rout I'm going. Thanks.
 
What rear is in the Volare front disc donor? Move the spring perches and your good. Its only a couple inches wider.
 
Fehlhafers inc.
800-742-7370
edgar motor co. Inc.
800-666-3315
capital city auto recyclers
402-475-2982
singer auto parts
877-611-4707
jim defreece auto parts
800-752-2886
olston's auto recyclers
800-223-7020
 
I currently have 3 7 1/4" bbp rear ends.
One is in a '73 Dart Swinger, one is in a '75 Dart Swinger, and one is in a '75 Scamp. All 3 cars had /6s and disc brakes.
However, I'm in MO which means I'm not close to anyone who needs one. :banghead:
Dallas
 
MOBodyman said:
I currently have 3 7 1/4" bbp rear ends.
One is in a '73 Dart Swinger, one is in a '75 Dart Swinger, and one is in a '75 Scamp. All 3 cars had /6s and disc brakes.
However, I'm in MO which means I'm not close to anyone who needs one. :banghead:
Dallas
Click to expand...

Maybe not but the drive through that part of the country is well worth the gas. Do you know what gear ratio ? All 3 the same ratio ? Just curious.
 
RedFish said:
Maybe not but the drive through that part of the country is well worth the gas. Do you know what gear ratio ? All 3 the same ratio ? Just curious.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I do live in a beautiful part of the country here.
I have no idea what the gear ratios are. Should they have a tag on the outside?
Dallas
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top