Factory disc brake rotor question

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Thanks the complete set is from a 72 dart (written in grease pencil) and I noticed in those hubs they have a notch machined on the inside to get at the race with a punch easier. The already separated ones didn't have that and were a little awkward to get at. I also noticed the rotors from the separated set are KH rotors, and noticed a weight attached for balancing i assume?
Got all 4 rotors turned for $100 cash. Worth it as easily $140 landed for a new pair. One set for the 69 and a "spare" set for our 67 or 69. Complete set is staying together and I'll press new races in it.
I forgot to get race depth for inside hub race. I did remember for the outside, 0.2425" approx. Still cleaning and painting to do.
Inside the rotor is for the stud head which, when the stud is pressed into the hub, holds the rotor to the hub. The swedge was a one time only, on the hub side to lock the rotor and hub together from Kelsey Hays. Not many can be found in this condition since the last OEMs were 1972. The studs are pressed out from the hub side. The marks on the inside are from the face of the stud head.

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I think you'll be happy you stayed with original rotors, I seem to always get disappointed with the quality of new replacement parts yes they look shiny but the quality of steel is always subject just my opinion.
 
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