Factory style hose clamps

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MoparMike1974

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How do you get these things to seal? Im not having any luck with them at all.
 
If your talking about these they are crap. Throw them away and buy ones that you can tighten.

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How do you get these things to seal? Im not having any luck with them at all.

Read this how to on hose clamp basics... Make sure that you have the clamp just behind the barb and also make sure there is some hose past the clamp...

Hose and Hose Clamp Basics


If your talking about these they are crap. Throw them away and buy ones that you can tighten.

View attachment 1715246327

Those are actually the better of the hose clamps... They are constant tension clamps and when installed properly work best...



Those are constant diameter clamps and don't seal as well as constant tension clamps...
 
The OEM clamps will work but if the hose is not connected to a port with a barb on it then it will leak. Found out the hard way by using OEM clamps on the water pump by pass hose. The one connected to pump worked but the one connected to the new air gap intake leaked. The fitting Edelbrock supplies for the by pass hose has small barbs.

Switched out the OEM for a band type and solved the problem.

I thought about those OEM type clamps... they must work pretty good since there are vehicles running up and down the road everyday with those installed.
 
I use these, on everything: radiator, fuel lines, coolant overflow hose, etc. No leaks anywhere. Use the right size hose for the fitting, and correct sized clamp, what was the issue? :)

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Its called a "Corbin" clamp.
To install them correctly, you need Corbin pliers.
As mentioned, you need the right size hose and clamp, for them to work right.
 
I have had 3 of them on 2 different vehicles break and cause my radiator hose to come off while driving. So my experience has not been pleasant with them
 
That clamp looks like it has been over expanded to fit the hose, based on the radius of the clamp vs. that of the hose.
 
That clamp looks like it has been over expanded to fit the hose, based on the radius of the clamp vs. that of the hose.
Idk that's just a generic pic I found. The ones that broke on me was original to the vehicles. I guess age and rust weakens everything I just prefer the screw type.
 
If your talking about these they are crap. Throw them away and buy ones that you can tighten.

View attachment 1715246327

These have been on and still on my 93 Dakota since we bought the truck brand new. Never a leak.
I use these, on everything: radiator, fuel lines, coolant overflow hose, etc. No leaks anywhere. Use the right size hose for the fitting, and correct sized clamp, what was the issue? :)

View attachment 1715246330

This is what I’ll use on my 65 Dart wagon. Never had a problem with them on any of the cars I used to have.
 
Those are flat band clamps and not Corbin clamps that Mopar used for years.
Idk what they are called but I dont like them lol my slant had the round ones that was a solid piece of metal I guess that is what yall call a Corbin. I never had trouble out of them but the flat ones that look like they have been casted are the ones that broke on me. 3 of them lol
 
If my memory serves…. A earlier thread was about new reproductions in packages sold at Ebay, etc..
The fault wasn't the size or strength of the clamps. The aftermarket hoses had a lesser wall thickness.
 
Idk what they are called but I dont like them lol my slant had the round ones that was a solid piece of metal I guess that is what yall call a Corbin. I never had trouble out of them but the flat ones that look like they have been casted are the ones that broke on me. 3 of them lol
Ya the late model ones are Flat band clamps. They have been used for years and I would imagine most of them are made with recycled materials from China. Lots of clamps on a car and if the manufacturers save a penny on each they save millions $$ every year. Just replace them with a Ideal brand worm style clamp and move on. You need to watch the worm clamps nowdays too. Most are **** as well. That's why I recommended Ideal brand. They are probably the best made. Ideal Tridon - Ideal Tridon
 
Ya the late model ones are Flat band clamps. They have been used for years and I would imagine most of them are made with recycled materials from China. Lots of clamps on a car and if the manufacturers save a penny on each they save millions $$ every year. Just replace them with a Ideal brand worm style clamp and move on. You need to watch the worm clamps nowdays too. Most are **** as well. That's why I recommended Ideal brand. They are probably the best made. Ideal Tridon - Ideal Tridon
Ok cool that's what I was talking about up there ^^^ that's what I thought the OP was talking about I dont guess I thought about the fact he was talking about his classic. The first thing that popped in my head was all the trouble I had out of them flat ones lol! I replaced them long ago. Thanks mike!
 
Read this how to on hose clamp basics... Make sure that you have the clamp just behind the barb and also make sure there is some hose past the clamp...

Hose and Hose Clamp Basics




Those are actually the better of the hose clamps... They are constant tension clamps and when installed properly work best...




Those are constant diameter clamps and don't seal as well as constant tension clamps...
Nice write up!! Very good job thanks.
 
Corbin clamps can work if the rubber hose is new and flexible. On an older install with a Corbin clamp, try to re-install in the same position. With an old hose and new Corbin clamp- you are asking for trouble.
 
Corbin clamps can work if the rubber hose is new and flexible. On an older install with a Corbin clamp, try to re-install in the same position. With an old hose and new Corbin clamp- you are asking for trouble.
Exactly!
 
Gates power grip.... use a heat gun! They have a good writeup pn hose clapms too, the screw drives look to be the worst from a dusty cycle standpoint. the springs fared better, cast clamps would seem to fatigue over time but are everywhere.
powergripsb-clamp-1-fro-a?$Image_Responsive_Preset$.jpg


 
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Go stealth, I put some heat shrink on clamp and hid the screw then painted it black
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Alan
 
This is on my 67 Dart 273 (cast iron WP) with Spring Wire Clamps.

I bought a set of wire clamps from Classic Ind and a set from Dales Cuda Shop (turns out to be the same set DCS sticker and all on both) What I found is the heater ones worked perfect, the by-pass was way too large, two of the radiator hose clamps were the correct size and two were too large. (My understanding is that the clamps are the correct size for the OE but the hoses that are available today are not OE OD size)

With 2 sets I used the radiator hose clamps that fit from both kits, the heater hose from one kit and bought from McMaster Carr a bag of 25 of the correct size for the by-pass hose.

I expected there to be leaks all over especially on the corroded fittings but not a drop. This is the first cooling system I have ever had that did not seep and it has the 16 lb cap!

Here is a post I did regarding sizes etc post #19 has PN for McMaster Carr clamp (I have a about 20 extra if anyone needs some)
Dale's Cuda Shop wire hose clamps not the correct size? - 1967 Dart 273
 
Yes, its the oem style corbin clamps im using. Yes, I have the correct pliers to install them and they are the right size clamps. All new hoses and new clamps. Had to shut my engine down 10 minutes into breaking in the cam. Replaced the leaking clamp and restarted. 20 minutes later another one started leaking. Then yesterday had another one leak. Drained the radiator last night and im replacing them all with regular screw clamps.
 
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