Fern Needs Head! 225 slant 75

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64dart170

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Hey FABO!
"FERN" our 75 that we have a restore thread on here, has been on hold sense last year due to a broken manifold bolt in the head. I finally got money and has been to 2 machine shops. 1st one didn't even look at it for 8 days so I repoed!
Sent to 2nd machine shop gone for a week, just sent back with nothing done on it but a note saying they can't do anything due to the small 1/16" wide 1/8" deep piece of easyout still in there!
SO...
I really am in need of a slant 6 head for a 75 Dart 225 Slant 6. Would prefer off of running motor! Local to Cincinnati! Or I'll buy whole running motor!
Let me know! Thanks again!8)
 
Man they should be able to get that easy out OUT LMBO wonder what the deal is with people. Did they even start to drill it out. i think they make an assortment of heli coil deals where they can drill it out a few sizes too big.
 
got a 71 motor hasnot run in two years and even got a bbearing and gasket set and a new oil pump you pull i ve got the tools and wrecker 175. or just the head 50 and you pull
 
Man they should be able to get that easy out OUT LMBO wonder what the deal is with people. Did they even start to drill it out. i think they make an assortment of heli coil deals where they can drill it out a few sizes too big.

Ther's not that much easy out left in there! barley any of tip broke off of the 2nd to smallest one in cheap set! I swear the measurements I gave is as big as it is our even lees than 1/8" still left in there!
I guess I'll drill around it to look like swiss cheese around easy out a nd knock it in with sledge hammer!!

Yard Dawg don't have any heads that would not have to be rebuilt, they have all been sitting too long and Fern's engine was always strong evn though 10 cracks in manifold AND 1/8" GAP BETWEEN THE MANIFOLD PLATES and the water in the center cyl from bad head gasket. I hate putting on different head that will have to be gone through at 200 or more instead of 50 for bolt in a great head!!

Real close to parting her out and scrapping but I've already got too much work involved now to not sell in the future!!
This SUCKS!!:angry7:
 
A torch will blow the easy out out, and not touch the head (cast iron).

That's what I thought too!!

I have already put a call into the welder that came out to do patches on her. Was supposed to try that that day but I had already dropped head at the 2nd machine shop so he couldn't try it.
I'll probibly take it to him tomorrow.
Thanks again!
 
I have had pretty good luck breaking easy-outs with a punch and a large hammer. Easy-outs are real hard and brittle, you should be able to break it up into pieces. Also, as was suggested, as a last resort, you could try a cutting torch with a small tip. that easy-out should heat up a lot faster than everything else because of its size and because it does not have as much contact area as the stud does with the head. The head should act as a heat-sink for the stud and the easy-out should heat up way quicker than everything else.
 
The only way I was able to get the easy out removed was to drill holes around the easy out, then knock the pieces out with a punch. Re-drill for heli-coil. It was a mother but it can be done. The only reason I think the machine shop couldn't do it is because the easy out is hardened steel. Eats drill bits up!
 
an EDM at a non-automotive machine shop will do it but, that may get real spendy.
 
You may be able to set a 5/16 nut center over the hole and use a stick welder and weld the center of the nut solid to the stud and turn it out with a box end wrench while its warm. thats 5/16 thread size not wrench size.
 
Dare devil has a point.... I would let the stud cool tho and heat the head some myself.. Not sure if cast works different but anyway it should loosen it up after it cooled just the heat making it expand and then retract will or should let the bolt stud break out a lil easier... The hammer and punch works too... If it is just the tip and that small it should bust up pretty easy... back in my roughneckin days Ive seen many busted up and picked the pieces out or use air to blow smaller pieces out of the hole.. Dont give up on your head man it is fixable...
 
good point Guitar. Then use a reverse drill bit so while drilling it out if you get a bite it will unscrew.
 
If all else fails you could grind it out with a small bit and a Dremel.

Tried it! LOL!!:toothy10:
You know, really I made the most progress with those. It ended up that 1 of those holes is what the torch blew through!!!!:cheers:
 
I have had pretty good luck breaking easy-outs with a punch and a large hammer. Easy-outs are real hard and brittle, you should be able to break it up into pieces. Also, as was suggested, as a last resort, you could try a cutting torch with a small tip. that easy-out should heat up a lot faster than everything else because of its size and because it does not have as much contact area as the stud does with the head. The head should act as a heat-sink for the stud and the easy-out should heat up way quicker than everything else.

True!
1st OX burst and it blew out and hit the metal wall behind bench with a light rain of sparks. Looked in and 2 holes visable when before there were none! These 2 holes were done with dremmel early on!:cheers:
 
The only way I was able to get the easy out removed was to drill holes around the easy out, then knock the pieces out with a punch. Re-drill for heli-coil. It was a mother but it can be done. The only reason I think the machine shop couldn't do it is because the easy out is hardened steel. Eats drill bits up!

This was also what I had been trying to do with the drummell in the first place! LOL!!
Things just don't work out for me! LOL!!

All the things discussed here were tried at different levels and they all helped with final removal!
Yea FABO and old fashoned mechanic Friend with torch.
He was kinda pussy footin it at first. I beat on it like a mother with a punch while hot. He started cleaning tip torch so I left. I thought he would get midevil on it's A$$ after I left.......and he did!
 
You may be able to set a 5/16 nut center over the hole and use a stick welder and weld the center of the nut solid to the stud and turn it out with a box end wrench while its warm. thats 5/16 thread size not wrench size.

DUDE!!!
That's totally AWESOME!!

I'm sure that you were definately speeking from experiance and very deep too!!!

I FREKIN LOVE IT!!!!!!!:cheers:

I'm tryin this one next time first!!!:read2:
 
Dude you got it out!!!!!!!!!!!!! i think you did anyway... Hopefully you got it all out too.. Sometimes the simplest thing works best... Hope you get the FERN back on the road...
 
Dare devil has a point.... I would let the stud cool tho and heat the head some myself.. Not sure if cast works different but anyway it should loosen it up after it cooled just the heat making it expand and then retract will or should let the bolt stud break out a lil easier... The hammer and punch works too... If it is just the tip and that small it should bust up pretty easy... back in my roughneckin days Ive seen many busted up and picked the pieces out or use air to blow smaller pieces out of the hole.. Dont give up on your head man it is fixable...


Well I got ta tell ya It was cool.
Heated, OX, blew the easy out (HARD STAY IN) tip and hit the wall. Mechanic was well on his way so I left it there to avoind the friday local traffic frenzy.
FATHEAD, my mechanic friend even delivered it to my house later, done ready to install!! Used a tap no heli!!!:cheers:

Didn't want any money.
I forced $40.00 on him!
He said half is deposit for next time. ( he has been known to work on my Darts early on, but I found my old vacume gage and never see him much except social visits now):-D
 
The easyout, being the hardest piece in there(more carbon), will blow out towards you, in a blind hole, and basically leave most of the bolt. Then pick around. Left handed bits are great, but $. Cast iron= less carbon. Ever tried to use a torch to cut cast? I was shown that trick in 1969. lol.
 
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