Hi everybody: I'll probably be getting one of the fiberglass six-pack hoods from Stinger like on this Dart below. I think they look pretty cool but the main reason is to get some air in and out when it's baking hot out. The car does great going down the HYW 185' but if you get stuck in traffic the temp shoots up. Will that light scooped hood help cool things down any? I just got a shroud made a few days ago also.
Well, I run one of those hoods and have no trouble keeping cool in traffic. Its more fresh air access, can't hurt.
Just an FYI. When you pay $1200 for an AAR hood, you expect more from Stinger Fiberglass | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
Agree, my AAR hood is shit and needed hours and hours of skim, high fill and blocking. Cost me and arm and a leg to have it fixed and painted.
One of my friends is a painter body man so if it would need fixing it would probably only take a lot of beer and me paying for the supplies. But still for $1000 that's a pretty crappy product
I hate mine...doesn't fit worth a damn!!! Here is the kicker ...it's an AAR hood with 6pack...bolt to hinge hood$$$.....SUX
Anyone have a US Body or Unlimited hood? They sell the same deal but cheaper. I'm just wondering if the quality control is any better. USbody.com | Fiberglass Auto BOdy parts, Monster Truck and Full Race bodies. Molding fiberglass since 1987. 1967 - '69 Dodge Dart with Six Pack Hood (PR-5 Scoop), Bolt On
I have the six-pack hood scoop, but I fiberglassed it on a steel hood with the sheet metal cut out underneath the scoop. I can tell you that you will not see any cooling benefits, spend the money on a good cooling system if your having issues.
Roll that money into a blower or tunnel ram and cut a hole in the hood. The way the factory always wanted to. jk That mech fan and shroud look perfectly aligned, should cool great like that.
I have the same hood and my 451 (Contour electric fans, aluminum 3-core rad) will idle at 182 degrees in traffic all summer long... but warms up into the mid-to-high 190's when running on the highway at 65-70 mph (3300-3400 rpm)... It's possible that the open scoop is messing with the airflow through the rad at highway speeds. Haven't gotten around to taping it off to see if there's any difference yet since it doesn't "overheat" ;)
Check out Sled City Fiberglass. Larry made me a lift off hood for my Demon and glassed in a Pro Stock style scoop for me. I am very happy with it.
As for cooling; My 367 warms up to 207*F, and stays there; with the hi-flo stat, the Thermostatic clutch on the big 7-blade all-steel fan, and the hi-flow pump, taking care of business. The rad is a multi-patched, ancient 26" A/C rad from a 73/75 318Dart, in the factory 22" core support. I run only the factory temp gauge, but rarely check it, I mean very rarely, No drama since year ~2000. I installed an aftermarket oval air-filter house on top of the hood with no scoop and sealed the hood to the carb, then ventilated the factory fake louvers, raising the louvers as high as they would go on the factory studs.. Seems to be working pretty good. By it's trap speed, (1/8th =93mph@3457pounds@930ft), the 367/4-speed, is making in the range of 400/430hp.
Nice job on your car. Lots of folks on here have some really nice cars. As most know I am not a fan of headers. Let me guess you have a set of headers radiating heat up into the engine bay, and the addition of a high compression 360 that is looking for a place to go with the extra heat ?? Heat travels to lesser heat.
I like seeing that extra heat get pushed out the back, instead of up in the engine bay. Big exhaust Systems give the hot gasses a place to go and expand into. Send it to the back. My personal opinion . . .
I think AJ runs so hot because he has a hi-temp thermostat? I'm just not comfortable running my big-block that hot. My car already has a dual 3" with x-pipe exhaust system... now what?
The scooped hood, tunnel ram hole, etc will vent heat, when idling and when it is shut off. That's about it. It will bring cooler air into the engine compartment, what happens with it from there is a different story. You can watch the heat radiate out of the dual snorkel scoop I had, then the tunnel ram hole. I believe it helped in traffic, heat rises, then escapes the opening until there is an in-rush of air. A rear facing scoop, like GM cowl induction, brings air in from the base of the windshield. This would vent heat out as well at idle or when off but has no real place on a Mopar in my opinion.
I was toying with this same idea. Also, I have no inner fenders. The air coming in through the wheel wells, the air coming in through the snorkel scoop I had may have been turbulent and causing some issues. I removed the scoop, left the tunnel ram poke through and it seems to help my set up. Now much has changed so we will see how mine changed.
