Fill tube filler neck corrosion salvageable?

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GHOST RUSTERS

GHOST RUSTERS

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Hey FABO! Working on the 1965 barracuda, refreshing some fuel related components, trying to clean and preserve our filler neck… lightly rusted and corroded it seemed… it was recommended to be soaked in evaporust, which we did for 24hrs… heres some before and after pictures…

I’ve read some previous experiences that this yellow build up is a reaction between leaded gas and the evaporust… the yellow build up does NOT come off with rinsing or scrubbing…

Can this be removed and or cleaned to where the fill neck can be used safely? Or is it best to go ahead and get a new filler neck? I’ve also read there’s modified ones available that prevent sloshing and spilling during corners and filling?

Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated, thank you!

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If the yellow is also on the outside I would expect it's the type of coating on the tubing. (Galvanized?) Or other less likely to create a spark metals.

Media blasting could refurbish it.

But by the time you get done paying for it might as well buy new.

I saw something about putting BBs inside and shaking to remove the yellow



Update on the yellowing.


I have had a galvanized bolt and nut soaking In evaporust for more than 24 hours now no yellowing at all.

I suspect the residue on the tubing is the issue
 
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That’s the dilemma I’m at with it… how much time and effort in trying to rescue this one correlates to just purchasing a new better quality one that won’t have the risk of contaminating the rest of the fuel system…

Thank you for the feedback and ideas!
 
The evapo rust turns the galvanize yellow. I usually put crushed glass in the pressure pot blaster and hold it inside with High pressure from both side until it is bare metal though the tube. Do the outside also with crushed glass.

Again crushed glass. Not Glass beads, black oxide , sand or aluminum oxide. Crush class cuts from the side and always leaves the metal smooth with less etching . Glass beads are more for cleaning then removing coatings and rust.


Then you can electronically zinc coat it with a small home unit purchased from Eastwood Co. and a tub
 
Or you can probably find a nice clean used one for about 50 bucks. . Put up a want add ! Instead of spending 1000s on equipment . My 2cents.
 
Choose your battle. Soaking it, if that works allows you to do something else at same time. If u have a sb cabinet 20 min would clean that up. Or buy a good used one.
 
I would get a new one. That's what I did, but mine had rusted inside the tank. Not that expensive and not worth risking your fuel system and carb trying to clean that one up.
 
GHOST RUSTERS said:
I’ve read some previous experiences that this yellow build up is a reaction between leaded gas and the evaporust… the yellow build up does NOT come off with rinsing or scrubbing…
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BTW thank you for the heads up.

I have soaked several galvanized finished parts in with no issues. I'm going to get a real galvanized bolt and toss it in to see what happens as the parts I typically soak have what looks like a galvanized coating but it might be something else.
 
Thank you for all of the good ideas and suggestions fellas. Being that I’m going with a new fuel tank and sending unit, I agree with all of you, this would not be the time or part to risk the rest of the fuel system with… I think next I’ll try soaking it in vinegar, someone had suggested soaking it in gasoline a while back as well. Then maybe into a blasting cabinet.

In the meantime I’ll put up a wanted add and hope for finding a clean useable one from a fellow member here.

Also, when I first got the car, the original tank and components were in rough shape, rotted, and tampered with, I’m not sure what I’m working with or missing… can anyone share some details or maybe a picture of a complete filler neck setup? I keep seeing two different grommets advertised and I’m not sure if I need both or one or the other…

I ordered the small thin one #1 pictured (which I believe is for the fuel tank to the filler neck) but see the larger wide one #2 pictured… do I need that one also? If so, where would it go? I don’t see it in the FSM either, unless I’m mistaken.

(I also ordered the pass through flat trunk gasket and the small white foam piece)

Thanks guys!

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The parts book lists 2203473 as the tank to tube gasket / seal.

This part is listed as NOS on ebay
NOS Mopar 1963-66 Plymouth Dodge A-body Fuel Tank Filler Neck Grommet 2203473 for sale online | eBay

dont know about the #2 in your photo.

Only thing I can say about the seals is look at your old one and if the recess in the seal where it engages with the tank is rounded or square try to find a seal with the same shape


Assuming this is a NOS seal note its shape
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DMT's seal, same shape
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Other seals have a different shape, note the thickness is the same top and bottom
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your photo #2 looks to be an 81-96 seal

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Dana67Dart said:
The parts book lists 2203473 as the tank to tube gasket / seal.

This part is listed as NOS on ebay
NOS Mopar 1963-66 Plymouth Dodge A-body Fuel Tank Filler Neck Grommet 2203473 for sale online | eBay

dont know about the #2 in your photo.

Only thing I can say about the seals is look at your old one and if the recess in the seal where it engages with the tank is rounded or square try to find a seal with the same shape
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That’s the grommet I got from DMT (#1 picture) and I’m hopeful it’s the correct one, that larger one shows 63-66 as well and I’m not sure about it… I don’t know what mine had originally, someone had already started tearing into the fuel tank and parts and half was missing or completely rotted.
 
Ghost Rusters, I am dealing with a similar issue on my '65 Barracuda. I just received a fuel tank grommet from Inline Tube, and it looks different from the others shown here, but the OD and ID look to be the same as the original. When I bought my car, the fuel tank was out, but the parts were all there. The new grommet from Inline tube looks like it will fit the tank, but is different from the original (still in the tank), both are pictured below. Inline lists this as "Fuel Tank Grommet, Large, 1964-74" The strange part is that both the old and new grommet fit very loose (about an 1/8" gap) around the fill tube. When the grommet is installed in the tank, it compresses a bit, but still not tight enough to seal the tube (see picture), it would easily leak. Why do both seals not fit tight around the filler neck? Do your grommets fit tight around the tube? I don't see anything else in the parts book. The filler pipe and seal are original, I took it out of the car. My apologies for hijacking your thread, but comments may help us both. Let me know if you need more pictures.

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That's not good.

It should take lube and force to get the tube in there
 
@Bob Jasinski Not a problem at all, I appreciate any feedback in solving this mystery… fellow members here have been very helpful.

At this time, I cannot answer your question on whether my grommet/ fill tube fit loosely because I havnt mocked them up yet, havnt even unboxed the new tank yet, I decided that my fill neck was beyond salvaging, at least beyond my capabilities and considering its condition so I have just now ordered a new fill tube.

But in the meantime, to have notes to compare, I will get my tank out this weekend and see how well the grommet that I ordered fits and report back, if that helps you at all.

Beyond that I don’t have anything else to compare to because someone had already tampered with many of the fuel related components before I got the car… filler neck was loose, no grommet anywhere to be found and a rotten fuel tank falling out…

Thanks for chiming in and hopefully we’ll get to the bottom of this! (The pictures are very helpful, I’ll be sure to share some also)

PS: did you enjoy the process of removing the filler neck as much as I did? Not overly complicated by any means but it certainly had me questioning my intellectual capacity not finding the screws hidden under the weather stripping for a while…
 
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GHOST RUSTERS said:
@Bob Jasinski Not a problem at all, I appreciate any feedback in solving this mystery… fellow members here have been very helpful.

At this time, I cannot answer your question on whether my grommet/ fill tube fit loosely because I havnt mocked them up yet, havnt even unboxed the new tank yet, I decided that my fill neck was beyond salvaging, at least beyond my capabilities and considering its condition so I have just now ordered a new fill tube.

But in the meantime, to have notes to compare, I will get my tank out this weekend and see how well the grommet that I ordered fits and report back, if that helps you at all.

Beyond that I don’t have anything else to compare to because someone had already tampered with many of the fuel related components before I got the car… filler neck was loose, no grommet anywhere to be found and a rotten fuel tank falling out…

Thanks for chiming in and hopefully we’ll get to the bottom of this! (The pictures are very helpful, I’ll be sure to share some also)

PS: did you enjoy the process of removing the filler neck as much as I did? Not overly complicated by any means but it certainly had me questioning my intellectual capacity not finding the screws hidden under the weather stripping for a while…
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I took my car apart back in 2009. The fuel tank was out of the car when I bought it, in fact it came with two tanks. The filler tube was still installed though, but I don't recall having a problem with weatherstrip screws. I do recall removing the sheet metal cover on the interior that the carpet was glued to, and there were screws under the carpet, but I ripped it out as it was worn and faded. There were (are) 3 screws that hold the tube flange in place to the left quarter panel, and screws that attach the large rubber seal at the bottom of the fill tube, where the tube goes through the floor into the tank.

So...getting back to the two tanks that came with the car. The guy I bought the car from started to do mods to it, and gave up, his wife was expecting. He cut the inner fender well on the front right to put in headers and modified one of the tanks by welding in a bottom reservoir (I think for fuel injection). When he delivered the car to my house, he brought parts that included the two tanks, the original (I thought) and the modified one. I sold the one he modified and all these years I believed the other tank (unmodified) to be from the car. It matches the new tank I bought so never gave the old tank a thought until your post came up and I coincidently just received the new tank rubber seal from Inline that didn't fit the fit the pipe.

Mystery solved: The tank I kept (unmodified) is NOT a '65 tank, even though it looks very similar to the new tank from Spectra Premium CR11A, (correct for '64-'66), it is for '67 and later (Spectra CH11B) The only significant difference between the two is the diameter of the fill hole. The CR11A hole measures right about 2.00", and the CR11B hole measures about 2.25", a 1/4" difference. I contacted Inline tube and they refunded my money for the seal since it was their issue not mine. The correct seals are on eBay, and I just got a confirming email from Tom's Classic parts that he has the right seal and he said yes, there is a difference in the early and later A body fill tube diameters. Early A has 1.75", and '67 later 2.00". My theory is that the factory increased the tube diameter to increase flow when refueling. '67 and up tank on left, '65 on right.

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Bob Jasinski said:
I took my car apart back in 2009. The fuel tank was out of the car when I bought it, in fact it came with two tanks. The filler tube was still installed though, but I don't recall having a problem with weatherstrip screws. I do recall removing the sheet metal cover on the interior that the carpet was glued to, and there were screws under the carpet, but I ripped it out as it was worn and faded. There were (are) 3 screws that hold the tube flange in place to the left quarter panel, and screws that attach the large rubber seal at the bottom of the fill tube, where the tube goes through the floor into the tank.

So...getting back to the two tanks that came with the car. The guy I bought the car from started to do mods to it, and gave up, his wife was expecting. He cut the inner fender well on the front right to put in headers and modified one of the tanks by welding in a bottom reservoir (I think for fuel injection). When he delivered the car to my house, he brought parts that included the two tanks, the original (I thought) and the modified one. I sold the one he modified and all these years I believed the other tank (unmodified) to be from the car. It matches the new tank I bought so never gave the old tank a thought until your post came up and I coincidently just received the new tank rubber seal from Inline that didn't fit the fit the pipe.

Mystery solved: The tank I kept (unmodified) is NOT a '65 tank, even though it looks very similar to the new tank from Spectra Premium CR11A, (correct for '64-'66), it is for '67 and later (Spectra CH11B) The only significant difference between the two is the diameter of the fill hole. The CR11A hole measures right about 2.00", and the CR11B hole measures about 2.25", a 1/4" difference. I contacted Inline tube and they refunded my money for the seal since it was their issue not mine. The correct seals are on eBay, and I just got a confirming email from Tom's Classic parts that he has the right seal and he said yes, there is a difference in the early and later A body fill tube diameters. Early A has 1.75", and '67 later 2.00". My theory is that the factory increased the tube diameter to increase flow when refueling. '67 and up tank on left, '65 on right.

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Well hey! That’s a whole lot of homework! Very nicely done and the mystery is solved, at least on your end, well done! And very useful information both for myself and any other members who might find themselves with similar concerns.

Thank you for all of that effort and for the pictures, visual aids are always nice.

I plan on opening up my new tank (also the spectra CR11A) this weekend and giving the grommet a test fit in the meantime until I get my new filler neck. Then I’ll post an update to compare any notes or findings. And thanks for sharing the specifics in dimensions and measurements between the two tank options as well as feedback on distributors like inline tube and Tom’s classic being willing to provide information and help you out.
 
GHOST RUSTERS said:
Well hey! That’s a whole lot of homework! Very nicely done and the mystery is solved, at least on your end, well done! And very useful information both for myself and any other members who might find themselves with similar concerns.

Thank you for all of that effort and for the pictures, visual aids are always nice.

I plan on opening up my new tank (also the spectra CR11A) this weekend and giving the grommet a test fit in the meantime until I get my new filler neck. Then I’ll post an update to compare any notes or findings. And thanks for sharing the specifics in dimensions and measurements between the two tank options as well as feedback on distributors like inline tube and Tom’s classic being willing to provide information and help you out.
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Ghost Rusters, You may want to put in a "Parts Wanted " request here on FABO for a replacement filler pipe, or consider getting a new one. Vans Auto sells them through eBay or directly from their website. I don't know about the vapor line though, they may have that too. If your vapor line is as corroded as the fill tube, make sure its clear before you reuse it. Since the gas cap on our cars is not vented (nor should it be) its imperative that the vapor line is clear. If not, you will build pressure (or vacuum) in the tank and cause problems.
 
Bob Jasinski said:
Ghost Rusters, You may want to put in a "Parts Wanted " request here on FABO for a replacement filler pipe, or consider getting a new one. Vans Auto sells them through eBay or directly from their website. I don't know about the vapor line though, they may have that too. If your vapor line is as corroded as the fill tube, make sure its clear before you reuse it. Since the gas cap on our cars is not vented (nor should it be) its imperative that the vapor line is clear. If not, you will build pressure (or vacuum) in the tank and cause problems.
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Yes sir that’s exactly what I did. I’ve got a new one coming next week from vans auto. I’ll check into the vent line as well. Thanks for the heads up!
 
Dana67Dart said:
That's not good.

It should take lube and force to get the tube in there
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I'm doing a filler tube replacement on my 65 Barracuda also. It has the CR11A tank. (I found that, but no manufacturer ID). I ordered two different seals from Classic Industries along with the new filler tube. Their customer svc guy couldn't tell me the difference, and both descriptions covered my year. Both fit snugly on the new tube The one on the left in the photos has an internal taper, the other an external. And they fit together. From reading the rest of this thread, I'm thinking the one on the left is the only one I need. I've worked it into the neck of the tank. When I try to put the tank onto the tube from underneath, I'm having a devil of a time.

What kind of lube can/should I be using? I don't want to use something that will destroy the seal over time.

And am I correct in assuming I can take the one on the right back off and set it aside?

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This seal should be all you need, assuming it fits the tank and pipe snugly

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I use SIL-Glyde for just about anything needing lubrication. You should have to fight it a little. If it goes in easy something isn't right. lol
 
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