Finally, my first 360 and goals for it! I'll be asking a lot of questions.

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I managed to sell some parts I had on the shelf, so budget is a little better. I've been doing some thinking. I would like to sell my 273, and it will be more attractive if I sell it complete as it sits today. I have tons of videos showing how it performs. My budget will allow me to have the heads milled and get a cam for the 360. I've been looking at the XE262H, XE268H and the Hughes Whiplash. It seems the Whiplash would be a good fit for my low compression 360, dont you think? Or is it just advertising? I'm not too concerned about sound, so that's not why I looked at the Whiplash. It seems good in a low comp engine and they say it makes good torque down low.
 
I managed to sell some parts I had on the shelf, so budget is a little better. I've been doing some thinking. I would like to sell my 273, and it will be more attractive if I sell it complete as it sits today. I have tons of videos showing how it performs. My budget will allow me to have the heads milled and get a cam for the 360. I've been looking at the XE262H, XE268H and the Hughes Whiplash. It seems the Whiplash would be a good fit for my low compression 360, dont you think? Or is it just advertising? I'm not too concerned about sound, so that's not why I looked at the Whiplash. It seems good in a low comp engine and they say it makes good torque down low.
Whiplash was made for the sound, and it will perform a some too. If your not chasing the sound, there are better choices of cams other than the Whiplash, even from the same company (hughes)
 
This is what caught my eye about the whiplash, from the Hughes web page: " Our Whiplash cam is designed for low, basically stock compression engines. This cam will run on pump gas in a 340/360 with 8.6:1 or less compression and iron heads. If your compression is higher than this you may need to use a higher octane race fuel. Your vacuum should be in the 9"-11" range using this cam.
Basic guidelines (These are not absolutes, just guidelines to help you get close on a cam choice)
Use: Street and some strip
Converter: Stock or a mild stall
Rear gear: Stock or up to 3.55
Benefits: Tons of low end torque "

It just seem to fit my bill, also no machining of the heads needed and I could use the stock rockers and push rods.
 
Now that the heads are removed I measured the gasket that was installed, it was about 0.035". I put the heads back on without gaskets and then put the intake back (with the gaskets that mounts to the heads, not the china wall). The intake now hits the two pins on the china walls. Do I remove them, if so, how, do they pull out with a plier?

Usualy not a problem to pull out with a plier :)
regarding the camchoice,im not a fan of cams designed for sound.An engine that sounds like its able to kick some *** should also be capable of doing so.
 
Usualy not a problem to pull out with a plier :)
regarding the camchoice,im not a fan of cams designed for sound.An engine that sounds like its able to kick some *** should also be capable of doing so.
Thanks. I was under the impression that the Whiplash was designed for performance on low comp engines. I have also looked at the Xe262H and the XE268H. The XE262 seems to make lots of torque down low and that is what I am after first and foremost.
 
How come Comp Cams says the XE268H and XE262H requires adjustable Valvetrain!?
 
Thanks. I was under the impression that the Whiplash was designed for performance on low comp engines. I have also looked at the Xe262H and the XE268H. The XE262 seems to make lots of torque down low and that is what I am after first and foremost.
Yes the Whiplash cam is designed to run on mild engines but still gives the lump that some people like. Therefore the car is more drivable. If you want the best output cam for your application most cam manufacturers now make a high-output cam like the comp extreme. Lunati and crane also make a good version of this type of cam.
 
How come Comp Cams says the XE268H and XE262H requires adjustable Valvetrain!?

It says that down by the lifter choices. If you use a stock type lifter stock valve train will work, if you buy the optional anti pump-up lifters adjustable valve train is required.

Those cams are too small to need anti pump-up lifters IMHO.
 
It says that down by the lifter choices. If you use a stock type lifter stock valve train will work, if you buy the optional anti pump-up lifters adjustable valve train is required.

Those cams are too small to need anti pump-up lifters IMHO.

I see. Thanks for explaining.
 
Started taking the springs of the heads today. The valve/valve guide has a lot of wear and to much slop. I've never done this type of work before. Is it doable fixing the valve guides myself? I forgot to bring my shop manual home with me :( Dont know if it covers this type of work.
 
Replacing the valve guides and cutting the seats is a job for the machinist, the right tools & experience. If you stay stock type replacement valves, they can be had in oversize
stems, & the guides are reamed/honed .005" or .010" over to accept them. If you replace or resize the guides you will automatically need the seats re-cut........& no, don't let
someone talk you into knurling & reaming the guides.
 
Whiplash, thmpr and rattler are made for sound??? Really

They are designed to get or to some of you "trick" the engine into more dynamic compression via an earlier ICL. Circle track racers have been doing the same basic deal for ages, they apparently do it for sound, right?

Some guys have cars that make a great move to 60' with a tighter converter than others with looser stuff. Think about that for a minute.

There is a reason you don't tend to install a 110-114 lsa cam at 100. Ask some of the people that install a 284/484 in a early 70's 360 the way mopar cut it or the way many install it way ahead. The way ahead crowd is usually MUCH happier. Same approach as all the above "sound" camshafts.
 
Replacing the valve guides and cutting the seats is a job for the machinist, the right tools & experience. If you stay stock type replacement valves, they can be had in oversize
stems, & the guides are reamed/honed .005" or .010" over to accept them. If you replace or resize the guides you will automatically need the seats re-cut........& no, don't let
someone talk you into knurling & reaming the guides.
Not sure I follow you here. I could get valves with oversized stems and make them work with some work on the existing valve guides ? Or I could re use my old valves and have new guides installed?
 
There is a reason you don't tend to install a 110-114 lsa cam at 100. Ask some of the people that install a 284/484 in a early 70's 360 the way mopar cut it or the way many install it way ahead. The way ahead crowd is usually MUCH happier. Same approach as all the above "sound" camshafts.
Explain the "Way ahead" please.
 
There is a reason you don't tend to install a 110-114 lsa cam at 100. Ask some of the people that install a 284/484 in a early 70's 360 the way mopar cut it or the way many install it way ahead. The way ahead crowd is usually MUCH happier. Same approach as all the above "sound" camshafts.
Explain the "Way ahead" please.
 
Not sure I follow you here. I could get valves with oversized stems and make them work with some work on the existing valve guides ? Or I could re use my old valves and have new guides installed?
Yes & yes, are your stock valve stems in good shape? Most often the intakes are re-usable,but the exhaust is a 50/50 bet at best. If you are staying with an OE design valve,
( i.e. not stainless or oversize dia. heads), they are usually available in .005"-.010"& .015" o/s stems for popular engines. the guides are simply reamed & honed to this o/s
dimension. If you have new guides installed, you can install any std. stem valves in them, performance & bigger than stock head dia. are now an option. But you will need the
seats cut/touched up either way, just trying to lap 'em ain't gonna cut it.
 
Yes & yes, are your stock valve stems in good shape? Most often the intakes are re-usable,but the exhaust is a 50/50 bet at best. If you are staying with an OE design valve,
( i.e. not stainless or oversize dia. heads), they are usually available in .005"-.010"& .015" o/s stems for popular engines. the guides are simply reamed & honed to this o/s
dimension. If you have new guides installed, you can install any std. stem valves in them, performance & bigger than stock head dia. are now an option. But you will need the
seats cut/touched up either way, just trying to lap 'em ain't gonna cut it.
Thanks. Now I follow. Will takes measurements on the stems today. When I google I come up short searching for valves with wider stems. Anyone know who sells these?
 
Sealed power/federal mogul etc., they are listed w/the std. valves w/a notation usually. NAPA, SBI, Engine Builder, use the net to find the std. replacement, then see what they
have available o/s, if any. I don't really do "stock" rebuilding of heads, so if the guides are too worn they get replaced.
 
There are 3 exhaust valves that have to much play. The others is ok. Yes, I have talked to more than one machine shop. This type of work is pricey in Sweden, there aren't that many shops doing this type of work around. Thanks for the help guys!
 
This clutch and manifolds came with the 360. I'd like to sell them. I have no idea of the value of the clutch nor the manifolds. Could someone point me in the right direction? Not looking to hussle anyone, only get what it's worth and put it back in the 360 build.

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