First drive after brake upgrade, then - BANG!

Car Nut

Mopar Master
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
9,845
Reaction score
55,674
Location
Earth
FC7732A2-4DE7-4714-BEBA-289E4B22F28C.gif
 

jos51700

Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Joined
May 24, 2009
Messages
6,786
Reaction score
2,342
Location
Bel-Ray
I think the 70 replies is because with the pics you did post they spotted about 70 problems.:poke:

From what I could tell, it was more the petty bullshit.

Not that I'm above that, I just slid by it in this thread. Kinda like a shart that escapes when you sneeze unexpectedly.
 

SF_Ripper

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Messages
53
Reaction score
49
Location
San Francisco, CA
From what I could tell, it was more the petty bullshit.

Not that I'm above that, I just slid by it in this thread. Kinda like a shart that escapes when you sneeze unexpectedly.

This is very helpful - just like about 60 of the previous replies.
 

Dale Davies

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2020
Messages
414
Reaction score
167
Location
Whitecourt, Alberta
No. Suggesting that I'm here to have my *** wiped is childish. Go berate someone else.
My observation is Rusty and Rat have their own demons. Patience is a virtue.
Seems like what you bought is like a new Russian car. I have a friend from Cuba. With the American sanctions, if they could get a new car it came from the CCCP. Under communism people got the same as long as they showed up for work. So cars came with one bolt in the upper door hinge and one in the lower. Engine mount bolts might be finger tight. So the first thing they did with a new car was to take it to a trusted mechanic to be inspected for all bolts in place and properly tightened.
When Chrysler phased out the Gen 2 Sebring, Russian manufacturer GAZ approached Chrysler about rights to all the tooling. Magna Int'l helped relocate the assembly line to just outside Moscow. Engines and electrics were manufactured in Mexico. The plan was for a base model with the 2.0L engine and a loaded model with the 2.4L engine. It was introduced as the Volga Siber in 2008. The plan was for 10,000 cars in the first year, 20,000 in 2009 and 40,000 in 2010. Less than 10,000 were produced in the entire run. The first vehicles were sold to guvment agencies, then to Sberbank employees. The Sebring was not known for reliability here. The poor sales in Russia was blamed on the financial meltdown of 2008, but the Russian population sees poor quality also. At the same time a plethora of European and Japanese models were available.
The older Volga 21 is known in Ukraine as "Russian Mercedes". Thousands of Ladas are used by taxi drivers and private citizens. Moscovitch is recognised as the poorest quality.
Just a FYI tidbit.
Right now Russian tank turrets have more air time than their airforce.
 
Last edited:

360notch

Active Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
42
Reaction score
19
Correct and all the op wants to do is cry like a little baby about someone being honest with him. Let him go hide under the kitchen table. He made the list.
Somebody needs to say it what most of us are thinking. You need to just knock it off.
 

cudajoedart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2021
Messages
90
Reaction score
68
Location
Connecticut
So, I put '73+ disk brakes and a QA1 UCA onto my '69 Barracuda and went for a test drive. The car is new to me, and hasn't been registered since '84 - it's a solid car w no real rust issues. All of a sudden, while driving down the road - I hear a LOUD bang from where the torsion bar is mounted under the passenger's seat (solid/no rust). Now, the car sits about 2" lower on the front passenger's side and the frame is sitting on the LCA bump-stop. Torsion bars seem to have been replaced recently (I suspect the guy who sold it to me had some suspension work done to it) and nothing appears broken.
1) Could the torsion bar have turned inside the mounting box?
2) if so, do I need to remove the torsion bar to rotate it back to correct ride height?
Sounds to me like you may have a bad torsion bar adjusting bolt or the saddle nut had the happen on my 66 dart came down like a ton of bricks
 

jos51700

Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Joined
May 24, 2009
Messages
6,786
Reaction score
2,342
Location
Bel-Ray
This is very helpful - just like about 60 of the previous replies.

It counters the semi-lengthy post of mine where I legit tried to help the OP, which makes me net-neutral for the thread.

For me, that's a pretty good balance when it comes to shitposting.

Off topic-related to your signature. The 2nd amendment guarantees the 1st.

I'm not allowed to agree more than once? That's BS.
 

Zcuda68

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
66
Reaction score
8
Location
Washington
All the crud has not been removed, wipe all that grease off so we can see what`s under it.
If that is the T bar sticking out, it`s broke. It should not be sticking out, a big clip keeps it in.
Send pic of what torsion bar should look like in hexes with snap ring installed so he understands. My car is in paint jail.
 

Swinger 340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2021
Messages
316
Reaction score
241
Location
Lake Placid, Florida
The bottom line is . You have a broken torsion bar if the car dropped and you have no weld breaks or rust issues . But you also have many more mechanical issues. Good luck
Not only a possible broken torsion bar but also the other side is about ready to break. They are left and rights, depending on the twists. Another possibility, looks like you may have a big block in a 6 cly or small block, torsion bar set up. Either way you may have a broken torsion bar, so check out the other side for correctness.
 

SF_Ripper

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Messages
53
Reaction score
49
Location
San Francisco, CA
The torsion bars are correct, in the proper location and unbroken, boxes are un-damaged. All I can offer now, is that the noise I heard may have been the LCA height-adjuster was not seated properly after the brake conversion. After the noise and closer inspection of the height adjusters - I had to adjust the height of the passenger's side of the car (not under load)- all is good now.

Thank you ALL.
 

triumphman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Messages
345
Reaction score
100
Location
Oklahoma
Considering all the "things" that you found, I would dismantle the entire front end and start from scratch. I have been there and done that. Found 9 cracks after cleaning all the crud around the "K" member.
 

MRGTX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2007
Messages
2,106
Reaction score
602
Location
CT, USA
Off topic-related to your signature. The 2nd amendment guarantees the 1st.

Nothing personal but I prefer to have law enforcement and the justice system protecting my rights, not vigilantes.
 

MRGTX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2007
Messages
2,106
Reaction score
602
Location
CT, USA
Considering all the "things" that you found, I would dismantle the entire front end and start from scratch. I have been there and done that. Found 9 cracks after cleaning all the crud around the "K" member.

I am leaning toward this advice too.

The front end isn’t complicated. Actually, it is the definition of elegant simplicity.

Taking it apart, inspecting, reassembling, torquing to spec will not only give you a great deal of peace of mind, you’ll get to see how this nifty torsion bar suspension works. I suspect that with your other mechanical experience, you would have it back together in no time.

Sorry to see that you have gotten a bunch of crap in this thread.
 
Top