Bent rim?
First Drive after building, Major shake
- Thread starter Calipag
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Calipag
Well-Known Member
I left the receipt at work so I don't have specs here. I have a busy weekend and probably won't get to work on the car, so Monday I'll post what the alignment shop gave me.
Calipag
Well-Known Member
I would hope they would have caught that when we had the new tire put on and balanced.
It might not balance out with speed.
Spin the tire jacked up off the ground, put a brick or piece of 2x4 on the ground near the tire.
If it wobbles in or out, or up and down you found your problem.
I just had the tires balance on my Jeep, and vibration you can drive in and out of.
Left rear rim is bent. Why did they not tell me that when they balanced the tires?
Spin the tire jacked up off the ground, put a brick or piece of 2x4 on the ground near the tire.
If it wobbles in or out, or up and down you found your problem.
I just had the tires balance on my Jeep, and vibration you can drive in and out of.
Left rear rim is bent. Why did they not tell me that when they balanced the tires?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Another thing you might try is find a stretch of unused/ little used (hopefully wide) road, and get a friend to follow you, maybe 2 friends. Have them watch for things moving that should not. Another alternative is to strap a camera various places "gopro" style.
Well then, lets just move on then! Just so you know, two things. I was in the tire, alignment and suspension business a LONG time. I've seen separated tires unloaded BRAND NEW right off the truck. New doesn't always mean good. But hay, they're new so forget about um.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
I've also had tires that were recently replaced, bubble out side walls. So they can fail.
As I recall, awhile back, Firestone and Ford had issues with NEW tires that ended up in a costly recall.
As I recall, awhile back, Firestone and Ford had issues with NEW tires that ended up in a costly recall.
So when this vibration starts, do you feel it dragging the car to either side or any pull in the steering wheel?
I had a rear wheel bearing fail in a 9-1/4". It still rolled but the drum started hanging on the brake shoes. See if you can feel a temperature difference in the wheels or check with a laser temp gun.
Think about this.......does it start after the car has been driven a bit? If it does, that could be that bad tire heating up and gettin wonky.
It could be a lot of things, but my point is, don't just say "oh the tires are good" and move on just because they're new. You're looking for something causing a problem, so look at everything.
It could be a lot of things, but my point is, don't just say "oh the tires are good" and move on just because they're new. You're looking for something causing a problem, so look at everything.
Do you have somebody close to you that you could put their tires and rims on your car and take it for a drive?
Calipag
Well-Known Member
Take it easy Francis! Stripes Reference there! JK
I get that. I am not discounting any suggestions that were being made. As with any written communication, tone can be assumed. I was not meaning it in a dismissive tone, it was being put up as information, that is all.
I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I did not have a chance to look at the car over the weekend but will take all suggestions and information an move forward in hope of finding the issue.
Thank you
Calipag
Well-Known Member
I wish I did, but I do not. I am going to put the rear up on jack stands and run it up to speed and see if I get the shake and try to narrow the issue down.
Calipag
Well-Known Member
So the Alignment sheet reads:
Camber LF 1/4 + degree RF same
Caster LF 1 + degree and RF 1 1/2 + degree
Toe for both 1/16"
Inertia
Well-Known Member
The fact it's got + Camber, while most modern radial equiped cars run neg, leads me to believe that the alignment was set to original bias ply spec.
Take it back and ask nicely if they could possibly try to get it closer to the chart posted.
Achieving neg camber will help in the adjustment toward +. Caster.
The more + Caster will give you greater directional stability.
It may be nec to install Moog K 7103 offset bushings to achieve 2 1/2* or more caster, if you're a spirited,competitive driver.
jmo
Good luck.
Take it back and ask nicely if they could possibly try to get it closer to the chart posted.
Achieving neg camber will help in the adjustment toward +. Caster.
The more + Caster will give you greater directional stability.
It may be nec to install Moog K 7103 offset bushings to achieve 2 1/2* or more caster, if you're a spirited,competitive driver.
jmo
Good luck.
I agree, but that's not causing his problem.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Perhaps not,
It's not what I was expecting, but it isn't right either, and should be corrected, to eliminate it as a likely possibility of shudder, - before some of the alternate suggestions.
It's not what I was expecting, but it isn't right either, and should be corrected, to eliminate it as a likely possibility of shudder, - before some of the alternate suggestions.
Isn't right according to whom? It's within the factory specifications for alignment.
Calipag
Well-Known Member
Per the chart posted earlier it is correct. Or am I reading that chart wrong? It's on page 1.Just want to be sure.
The Skosh chart is used as a guide for "preferred" alignment specs. It does not reflect what the factory service manual says, or the range of acceptable specs that the service manual gives. It's a good chart to use, but the alignment specs posted from the car are correct and in spec according to the factory service manual. That alignment is not the cause of the shake.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
As I mentioned, the print-out wasn't what I expected, and, it isn't right either, but it's better than the (neg) - 1* to 0* caster - the Factory Service Manual spec for late 60 to mid 70's A-body manual steering cars.
I agree it's not the issue at + 1* caster.
Neg caster has little, if any directional stability, hence my concern re. "shopping cart wobble" at FSM spec with neg caster.
I maintain the more POS caster, the better the directional stability.
The shopping cart reference was a real good one......we call um buggies down here, but anybody would understand what you mean. The only thing I see that would really negate any of that to me......and I could be way wrong.......would be the steering linkage. As long as everything is in good shape with no extra slop, I think that would keep any buggy wobble, lol, at bay.
I could be wrong, it's happened a time or million before. lol
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CCHHAARRGGER!
Well-Known Member
Like I mentioned earlier, The first thing I would do is to take the drive shaft out, take it to someone that can balance it. You have these guys in Corona. Aluminum Driveshafts, Yoke, Universal Joint, Composite Driveshaft, Center Support Bearings - Inland Empire Driveline Service, which you probably already knew. They can set it up and check to see if the drive shaft is out of whack. My money is on a bad drive shaft vs all the other good suggestions. Don't want to see you replace tires and go back for an alignment only for it not to change anything. What you are experiencing is exactly what I experienced with a bad drive shaft.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I agree with questionable linkage and wheel tramp.
My son's lifted Jeep gets the " Death Wobble" at certain speeds (even with dampers).
It just takes something to upset the harmonics(?). He slows or stops, then resumes with no wobble.
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One other thing to keep in mind regarding alignment specs. Everyone uses the Skosh chart like it's an end all be all and throw everything else out the window. Well, guess what? Roads are not the same everywhere. Some roads in some areas of the country are crowned much more heavily than other areas. All of that has to be taken into consideration if you want the car to drive straight and true. So keep that in mind as well. The skosh chart is good, but it's not the only thing to consider.
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