First slant, multiple questions

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69moredoor

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ok all. I got a smokin deal on my first Mopar (I’ve been more of a Jeep guy). I know nothing of the slants but am learning. I picked up a 69 four door dart custom the other day. It is hard starting, and would die every time you shifted gears (auto trans , from forward to reverse). The car immediately lights if you prime it with a little gas doe. The throat.
I cleaned up the engine bay a little bit today. And fed it some carb cleaner while it was running. It now will stay running when changing gears but will still stumble as you start to accelerate. I discovered:
It leaks a lot where the red arrow is
The green arrow is an unused port?
This is a later Holley “economiser” carb?
Am I correct in assuming it’s a later Holley 1920 or a 1945?
More pics below

BAE70F35-1816-4E01-8E4C-AC8C0C5F95DA.jpeg


C485A7F5-B59B-47F6-BF55-B00F01C8494F.jpeg


A74B4022-B71E-49CA-A1E1-02953B1B0B17.jpeg
 
As you can see a hose in The third pic was short and open. I threw a bolt in until I get answers as to where it goes
 
That hose (it's the carb bowl vent) should go to the vapor canister, usually on passenger side behind the headlight, about the size of a coffee can. Look for a Vacuum hose diagram somewhere in the engine compartment (if it's still there). You should rebuild the carb, or at least spray it down with carb cleaner to figure out what is leaking. There are a couple of 1 bbl carbs for sale over on the .org site as well. If you don't know the condition of things, you should just give it a tune up, plugs, cap, rotor..at least the basics. It wouldn't hurt to adjust the valves and set the ignition timing. It is very hard to kill a slant six, but that doesn't mean it won't run like crap if you don't take care of it.
 
Oh I’m going to do all that. So it sounds like I need a carb rebuild... .org site? I’ll have to check. But need to find out which carb this is first lol

Here’s a link to my intro post with pics of the whole car..
 
There is no vapor canister on a '69. That carb is a Holley 1920, a '70-'72 item. The short hose coming off the top-front of the carb, that's the bowl vent. It is presently teed into the PCV valve hose that runs to the valve cover, which is wrong. It would ordinarily not be teed into anything on a '69 car, because it wouldn't exist. Carbs through '69 (California) '70 (49-state + Canada) had the bowl vent open to the atmosphere. Remove the bowl vent hose and discard it, then repair the cut in the PCV valve hose so that it runs from the carb to the PCV valve on the valve cover without any other stops or tees.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post.

You will want to do the Fuel line mod and eventually the HEI upgrade . Other upgrade info here.
 
I had a 1969 Dart 225 w/ Holley 1920 for 18 years. It acted the same, wanted to stall off idle and such. Went thru head rebuilds, multiple carbs, finally even a whole different rebuilt long block. When it still idled rough, I tried a 4th carb and that was the charm - idled like a kitten (car stolen 2 months later & never found). As many have found, most Holley 1920's you get from auto parts are bad. There is a sealed metering block which most rebuilders don't touch. Some guys here know how to blow thru the bottom holes to clear out the metering block. I now have a 1964 Valiant 225 with a Carter BBS carb. It runs so smooth you can almost not tell the engine is running. The small silenced air cleaner helps. That carb is similar to the Carter BBD used on gazillions of small-block engines and is easy to rebuild and understand. Not sure how economical it is. For that, I think there was a Holley Economizer carb sold after-market in the 1980's that fits a slant, though people say they are impossible to rebuild.
 
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