First time motor pull

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Vali68

Vali68

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I know there are some first comers here who have experienced their first slant 6 motor pull. I am not looking for an exact time frame, but how long did it take before you were able to get the motor out of the car?

We have a 68 Valiant we need to pull the cracked block motor out of and replace it with one we've built.

On another subject, it seems the tranny is slipping more and more until the motor heats up.
Should we pull both at the same time? Or wait and pull the tranny after we get the motor out?
 
I believe it's much easier to pull the engine and transmission out together. The only thing you'll have to disconnect are the engine and transmission mounts, the driveshaft, and all the other wiring and hoses connected to the engine and transmission. Probably shouldn't be that hard. I've never done it but with all the slant sixes I've seen OUT of cars it shouldn't be a problem.

Make sure the new engine's painted up nice!

Best regards
 
Very true stansblue72, you don't want a busted radiator when you pull the engine. Also it gives you more space! I did a whole cooling system job on my 198 and I couldn't believe all of the space under the hood without the radiator or fan!
 
Vali68 said:
I know there are some first comers here who have experienced their first slant 6 motor pull. I am not looking for an exact time frame, but how long did it take before you were able to get the motor out of the car?

We have a 68 Valiant we need to pull the cracked block motor out of and replace it with one we've built.

On another subject, it seems the tranny is slipping more and more until the motor heats up.
Should we pull both at the same time? Or wait and pull the tranny after we get the motor out?
Click to expand...


About 30 min. :D
No, but it goes pretty fast if you have the tools.

I would pull them both and I'll tell you why.
When a trans slips or does not engage until the engine is warm is a classic sign of old and hardened rubber seals.

Warm fluid softens the rubber and makes them more flexible and then it starts working better, because they can move easier and seal.
Make sence?

By continuing to run it that way it just makes things get damaged more from the slipping, when you could very possibly get away with a basic rebuild otherwise.
 
Empty radiator,disconnect exhaust pipe,ps pump,shifter linkage,wiring,fuel line,trans lines at rad,speedo cable,driveshaft,trans mount,hood,wire from trans switch,drink a beer. If you have a spare trans slip yoke,slide it in the trans to avoid oil spillage,remove radiator,fan and yank it out....then have a few beers to celebrate
 
Sedanman said:
Empty radiator,disconnect exhaust pipe,ps pump,shifter linkage,wiring,fuel line,trans lines at rad,speedo cable,driveshaft,trans mount,hood,wire from trans switch,drink a beer. If you have a spare trans slip yoke,slide it in the trans to avoid oil spillage,remove radiator,fan and yank it out....then have a few beers to celebrate
Click to expand...

Drink a couple beers as you plan the job.Empty radiator,disconnect exhaust pipe,ps pump,shifter linkage,drink a couple more beers, (label wires with masking tape) wiring,fuel line (block off from leaking then drink another beer),trans lines at rad (block off to keep from leaking then drink another beer),speedo cable,driveshaft, (prop up tranny with floor jack then drink another beer) trans mount, hood (have buddy get some more beers and come over to help),wire from trans switch ,drink a beer. If you have a spare trans slip yoke,slide it in the trans to avoid oil spillage,remove radiator,fan and yank it out....then have a few beers to celebrate.

There, fixed it for ya. :D
 
Thanks for the info. I have a 1 ton hoist, 3 ton jack, 3 ton jack stands, compressor, air ratchets, torques wrenches, sockets, open box wrenches, etc to do the job.
Just didn't know if I should plan it taking a whole weekend or what.
 
Lol. It shouldn't take but a few hours. I have done it by myself in 2-3 hours but I have been stripping cars for 20 years. I would take pics of where the wiring and linkage goes since your new to it
 
airwoofer said:
Drink a couple beers as you plan the job.Empty radiator,disconnect exhaust pipe,ps pump,shifter linkage,drink a couple more beers, (label wires with masking tape) wiring,fuel line (block off from leaking then drink another beer),trans lines at rad (block off to keep from leaking then drink another beer),speedo cable,driveshaft, (prop up tranny with floor jack then drink another beer) trans mount, hood (have buddy get some more beers and come over to help),wire from trans switch ,drink a beer. If you have a spare trans slip yoke,slide it in the trans to avoid oil spillage,remove radiator,fan and yank it out....then have a few beers to celebrate.

There, fixed it for ya. :D
Click to expand...

Yeah, what airwoofer said, lol.

Also, If you're planning to rebuild the transmission, you may go ahead and drain the trans fluid before you pull the motor (same with the oil if you're planning to rebuild). It will be a lot less messy if you don't have a spare trans slip yoke.
 
I always pull motor and trans together and still don't have a plug or extra slip yoke for the transmission so I end up pulling the transmission pan and draining the oil before pulling the whole unit to avoid the mess.

You'll have fun!!!:cheers:
 
Set aside a day for it if you are anywhere decent with tools; faster is quite doable. My son and I did it in 4-5 hours in sub freezing temps even. Driveshaft and trannie/clutch linkages and under car stuff take the longest; top side disconnect is quick. IMO, easier to pull an auto trans with engine due to the weight; they tend to be pretty heavy. Drain is real well first.
 
When I pulled the motor out of my Dart this fall I pulled the transmission first. Then yanked the motor out after. I had the car on the lift at work and find it to be much easier to handle with out the tranny hanging off the back. No steep angle to get it out no need to remove the hood. When it goes back together I'm going to set the motor back in on the mounts run it up and bolt the tranny in from underneath.
 
Um, run it up? Before the tranny is on? Plz explain how that can be done on a Mopar. Even a stick car needs at least the bellhouse on to mount the starter. And then, whats holding the back of the motor up, so the fan doesnt eat the rad? Or the firewall wrecks the dizzy?And it would be real stressful on the mounts.
-Or did i misunderstand "run it up "?
-Only 4 bolts hold the hood on.
-You must be a newbie.
 
I needed a 1/2" crow foot to get one of the three bolts holding one side of the Z bar to the fender - the e-brake cable clamp was held by that bold and it occluded part of the bolt head. Fortunately, Sears is about 3/4 of a mile away. ;-)
 
If your transmission has no drive after sitting overnight, it could be "morning sickness". My 65 Newport is like that, despite a "professional" rebuild" (if that what you can call Cottman). I since found a valve body kit to fix it. An easy trick is to idle in "N", which fills the torque converter in <10 sec. Idling in "P" or "D" can take >30 sec. If slipping between shifts, that is a different problem.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Um, run it up? Before the tranny is on? Plz explain how that can be done on a Mopar. Even a stick car needs at least the bellhouse on to mount the starter. And then, whats holding the back of the motor up, so the fan doesnt eat the rad? Or the firewall wrecks the dizzy?And it would be real stressful on the mounts.
-Or did i misunderstand "run it up "?
-Only 4 bolts hold the hood on.
-You must be a newbie.
Click to expand...

Yes drop the engine in put the car up on the lift and bolt the tranny in from underneath. No running involved in till the engine and trans are in. The engine goes in easier with out the tranny hanging off the back.
 
Tech857 said:
Yes drop the engine in put the car up on the lift and bolt the tranny in from underneath. No running involved in till the engine and trans are in. The engine goes in easier with out the tranny hanging off the back.
Click to expand...
Not in my 30 years of pulling and installing. I would much rather pull and drop as a unit. So much easier than fighting the trans trying to shove it up in there with the engine dangling by the mounts. But whatever floats your boat
 
I won't have a lift to use. So I am using a engine hoist, 3 ton jack, jack stands, and whatever else I can muster to get both out of the car. It maybe more of a challenge getting them out than getting them back in.
 
It is so much easier to unbolt everything underneath and just roll the car out from under it while lifting the engine out. Hell I've even done it in the dirt.that way you aren't jerking on the hoist and bouncing the engine and trans around
 
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