FiTech EFI system

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Fuel pressure issue.
38 psi when I prime it, 28 psi when it's idling, 28 psi or less when driving.
Gauge is mounted on one tb.
Corvette Wix filter.
Orange wire direct to pump.
Pump, sending unit, tank, all grounded to a hub via 10ga next to battery, then to battery.
In tank FiTech 40019 pump.

Replaced filter, no change.
Replaced gauge because I meant to order a liquid filled one, no change.
Put gauge on filter out, capped return, psi same.
Called FiTech, verified all settings, they sent a new 340 l/ph pump, no charge.

Checked sock and pump rubber fuel line, fine.
Installed new pump.
Same fuel pressure.
Disconnected line from pump to filter, put gauge on line using a brand new FiTech filter I never used, psi goes to 38 when primed, then back down to zero.

I called FiTech a number of times during this, not just the one mentioned above, everytime I asked about a relay for the pump they told me no, it should provide the correct psi without one.

I believe this has plagued me since new.
I actually bought a Painless fuel pump relay and ran the wiring back to the trunk, but never hooked it up based on their instructions.

I know the obvious is hook up the relay and set the PWM to 100.

Before I do, I will be calling again, just to hear their advice, and provide feedback.

I would think right at the pump the psi should be higher than 38.

Thoughts.

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Anyone interested, I will pm contact information. San Jose, California. He is asking $800.
 
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Called FiTech on my fuel pressure issue.
Suggested I run power right to the pump, as noted above already.
If I get over 100psi, possible issue with tb ecu, call back.
If I get the same crappy psi, pull the red cap that is plugging the hole where the regulator was on top of the pump, and make sure the o-ring is good and seated so it does not allow fuel to just return to the tank.

I hadn't thought of this, wish I had when the tank was out.

I recall the plug being flat though, and I'm probably way off here. I looked at my instructions vs newer pics online, hmm.
Strange way to picture it if it wasn't flat.

Once again, it's probably not flat. Whether it's flat or the o-ring is messed up, I'm dumb.

I made a video of the gauge on the pump as I turned the key on and primed it. Easiest way to see what was happening by myself.
Just watched it again and turned the volume up all the way. It would go to 38psi then fall right back to 0. From the moment the key is turned on I can hear gas dripping into the bottom of the tank. It definitely shouldn't do that, the return isn't even hooked up.

Definitely thinking o-ring on the plug is bad or not seated correctly.

It's freezing cold here, but hopefully I can get to this quickly.

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Finally got some time.

Just to recap, this is FiTech pump #2 that they sent me, fuel pressure gauge hooked to short line off of pump. I've tried more than one gauge as well.

Pulled tank, pulled red plug, looks fine, o-rings look fine.
When I pulled it gas dripped into tank, must be doing it's job.

Put regulator that came with pump in, primed pump with key, same crappy psi.

Disconnected power from FiTech at pump, ran new jumper wire to battery, no change.

Pulled regulator, tried regulator that is on throttle body, with jumper wire, no change.

Tried with red plug, no change.

10 gauge ground wire directly from pump, uninterrupted, to ground hub next to battery, then grounded to battery, battery grounded to engine.

I'll be calling them tomorrow, but I'm totally stumped here.
 
They're sending me a new pump, 40107, which is technically the pump that came with the 40019 in tank kit.

The first replacement pump they sent me was 40102, which is supposed to have the same 340/lph rating, although not listed on their website.

I requested new o-rings as well to eliminate the small stuff.

If 2 new pumps both produce the same weak psi, which is strange, gauge directly on pump, wired directly to battery with crimped connectors, nothing else hooked up, it has to be the pump, no?

If #3 does the same you'll hear me screaming "Nooooo" as I fall to my knees looking up at the sky.

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They're sending me a new pump, 40107, which is technically the pump that came with the 40019 in tank kit.

The first replacement pump they sent me was 40102, which is supposed to have the same 340/lph rating, although not listed on their website.

I requested new o-rings as well to eliminate the small stuff.

If 2 new pumps both produce the same weak psi, which is strange, gauge directly on pump, wired directly to battery with crimped connectors, nothing else hooked up, it has to be the pump, no?

If #3 does the same you'll hear me screaming "Nooooo" as I fall to my knees looking up at the sky.

View attachment 1715294818

Gosh darn it! You did your part. Send that stuff back to them and let them get full pressure out of it.
 
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They're sending me a new pump, 40107, which is technically the pump that came with the 40019 in tank kit.

The first replacement pump they sent me was 40102, which is supposed to have the same 340/lph rating, although not listed on their website.

I requested new o-rings as well to eliminate the small stuff.

If 2 new pumps both produce the same weak psi, which is strange, gauge directly on pump, wired directly to battery with crimped connectors, nothing else hooked up, it has to be the pump, no?

If #3 does the same you'll hear me screaming "Nooooo" as I fall to my knees looking up at the sky.

View attachment 1715294818

Not to hijack your thread but if dont mind me asking what are you using for a fuel guage with that pump setup?

Currently on my Duster I am still using the original sending unit for the fuel guage buts the line is capped at both ends. I then have the fuel pickup and pump installed adjacent.
 
I'm Sorry to see the a t you're having so much trouble. I went with a complete Tanks Inc tank and pump set up, expensive but I haven't had any issues. Yes if you connect directly to the battery and connect the gauge directly to the pump you should have the required 58 PSI. no need for the NOOOOOO! Good Luck!
 
Sending unit is from Tanksinc, same as tank, and fuel gauge is stock with a modern update by a fabo member years ago.
I want to say Redfish, but it was done so long ago I'm not sure.
It's been working great well beyond his warranty period, 3 years I think.
 
According to FiTech, with straight battery power it should be 100+psi.
I'm getting 38psi, same on 2 pumps.
It's strange that 2 new pumps are bad, stranger that they both are crappy with the same psi.
 
I don't know man I would be looking at a restriction, somewhere particularly at the pickup. I'm not familiar with that setup. Is there ANY possibility that the pickup can "suck shut?"

The other "first thing I'd check" is to be ABSOLUTELY SURE the pump is actually getting full voltage, at least for your test. DON'T FORGET the ground side!!!!

What is that setup using for connections at the tank? Ground? etc.

Other thing you might consider (not sure how you are setting it up) is change the test conditions. Are you checking pressure "out of the car?"
 
I don't know man I would be looking at a restriction, somewhere particularly at the pickup. I'm not familiar with that setup. Is there ANY possibility that the pickup can "suck shut?"

The other "first thing I'd check" is to be ABSOLUTELY SURE the pump is actually getting full voltage, at least for your test. DON'T FORGET the ground side!!!!

What is that setup using for connections at the tank? Ground? etc.

Other thing you might consider (not sure how you are setting it up) is change the test conditions. Are you checking pressure "out of the car?"
I agree, probably some kind of restriction . Also you are correct, that pump without a regulator should be about100 PSI but it's regulated yo 58 PSI afterwards.
 
It has a 'sock' on the bottom of the pump to aid in pulling in gas, tried 2 different socks.

Tried moving the pump a little bit higher in the tank.
Replaced the hose from the pump to the top of the housing.

I grounded the pump with a 10 gauge wire directly to a ground hub next to the battery, grounded to battery, battery to engine.
Tank and sending unit are grounded to a hub in the trunk, then forward to hub at battery.
I wrapped the wires in harness tape and ran them along the same path as the tail light harness, which is also new.

Battery on a trickle charger disconnected from car, fully charged.

This last time, pulled tank completely, ground is long enough to drop tank to floor with car raised a few feet on stands.

Disconnected power at pump, ran a new power wire with crimped connections and bolted to top of pump.

I can look right thru the 'out' port into where the regulator or red plug goes, and also down thru the housing. Checked for obstructions multiple times, both pumps.

Pressure gauge is right on the 'out' of the housing.

If this new, new pump doesn't get me 100psi on the garage floor directly hooked to the battery, I'm going to try to submerse in something clear or large enough to see anything, just that, anything.

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I ran some tests with the tank completely removed, gauge on the pump housing outlet, hooked to a fully charged battery.

First with the old new pump and the new regulator, then with their 'plug' in the pump housing.

Same crappy psi.

Put new, new pump in, new hose, and I didn't bolt the pump housing in completely, just 4 of the 8 nuts.

Hooked to battery, gas leaked out the top edge.

What the?

With the red plug in, there is no return, gas should just deadhead at gauge.
Even with their regulator in their pump housing, gas would return straight down.

So, I think I know the issue.

FiTech says, don't put a clamp on the upper end of the hose, it is a barbed fitting, the hose slides on, and you cannot pull it off.
Put a clamp on the lower end at the pump.

Problem is the hose gets soft, expands, from the pressure, then leaks. They will tell you this, and told me multiple times, so I replaced the hose multiple times.

A clamp won't even fit there, I tried. It hits the tank mounting ring in any position.

A longer fitting would allow a clamp, but the housing is aluminum and I don't think I could find an aluminum fitting around here.

I never would have known the upper barb fitting leaks almost immediately if I didn't leave 4 nuts off when I tested it.

Gas sprayed right at the top horizontally towards the pump housing o-ring.

So, I cut another new piece of hose, made sure it was perfectly square, slid it over the barb fitting, put it all back together, 100psi.

Put the tank back in, hooked everything back up, 58psi at the throttle bodies, nice!

Reset the ecu, went through the entire process, started.

Took it for a ride, fine.
Took it for a longer ride, 40psi.
By the time I got home, 24psi.

The pump I have is 40019.
I find it odd that it supersedes pump 50019, which had a clamp on both ends.

I bought a new tanksinc tank and cut a 4.5 inch hole in it for this pump, and most other pumps out there require a smaller hole, but theirs use AN fitting, which I preferred. I told them this the last time we spoke.

They have been extremely helpful, and this system is awesome, however I see this as a clear design flaw.

Think about it, a barbed fitting comes to a point, the hose goes over it which leaves a space between the opening and the hose. Add 100+psi, how long before it pushes past the barbs?

A longer fitting that accepts a clamp would solve this.

I sent an email to the guy helping me requesting a call.

They need to fix this.

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I ran some tests with the tank completely removed, gauge on the pump housing outlet, hooked to a fully charged battery.

First with the old new pump and the new regulator, then with their 'plug' in the pump housing.

Same crappy psi.

Put new, new pump in, new hose, and I didn't bolt the pump housing in completely, just 4 of the 8 nuts.

Hooked to battery, gas leaked out the top edge.

What the?

With the red plug in, there is no return, gas should just deadhead at gauge.
Even with their regulator in their pump housing, gas would return straight down.

So, I think I know the issue.

FiTech says, don't put a clamp on the upper end of the hose, it is a barbed fitting, the hose slides on, and you cannot pull it off.
Put a clamp on the lower end at the pump.

Problem is the hose gets soft, expands, from the pressure, then leaks. They will tell you this, and told me multiple times, so I replaced the hose multiple times.

A clamp won't even fit there, I tried. It hits the tank mounting ring in any position.

A longer fitting would allow a clamp, but the housing is aluminum and I don't think I could find an aluminum fitting around here.

I never would have known the upper barb fitting leaks almost immediately if I didn't leave 4 nuts off when I tested it.

Gas sprayed right at the top horizontally towards the pump housing o-ring.

So, I cut another new piece of hose, made sure it was perfectly square, slid it over the barb fitting, put it all back together, 100psi.

Put the tank back in, hooked everything back up, 58psi at the throttle bodies, nice!

Reset the ecu, went through the entire process, started.

Took it for a ride, fine.
Took it for a longer ride, 40psi.
By the time I got home, 24psi.

The pump I have is 40019.
I find it odd that it supersedes pump 50019, which had a clamp on both ends.

I bought a new tanksinc tank and cut a 4.5 inch hole in it for this pump, and most other pumps out there require a smaller hole, but theirs use AN fitting, which I preferred. I told them this the last time we spoke.

They have been extremely helpful, and this system is awesome, however I see this as a clear design flaw.

Think about it, a barbed fitting comes to a point, the hose goes over it which leaves a space between the opening and the hose. Add 100+psi, how long before it pushes past the barbs?

A longer fitting that accepts a clamp would solve this.

I sent an email to the guy helping me requesting a call.

They need to fix this.

View attachment 1715316443

Well done finding the problem. I wonder how many others are fighting the same problem.

Why the hell would you have a hose at 100 psi on a barb without a clamp on it is beyond me.
 
would a snap ring style clamp fit up there ?
I understand your frustrations. I would NEVER use a barbed fitting for 100 PSI, it's crazy. It's just engineers being pushed by the company to save a nickel on each unit. I see this exact thing with the analyzers I work on. Our Nox analyzer used to use Swagelock fittings inside but since the new "improved" analyzers with barbed fittings inside came out we have nothing but leaks.
 
I sent an email to FiTech requesting a call, they called me today.
They have been very helpful.

Today I found out the pump housing and pump were made by their sister company, Hyperfuel. Maybe I'm dumb, but I didn't realize that, it has Hyperfuel on the top but FiTech on the actual pump.

They have parted ways, so I asked if they have a new sister?

So I called Hypertech, an actual person answered, then transferred me to someone who was extremely helpful.

A long discussion, he grabbed the pump in question, we went over possible solutions, and he took my info and said he would call me back.

2 hours later he called back. He said they didn't have anything in house, so he went out in search of a proper fitting.

He's sending me what he came up with, fitting, some kind of efi low profile clamp, hose, and a new o-ring for the top of the housing.

He said he has never received this feedback, and would they would be working on an improvement to the pump.

He made it clear he believed his solution will work. I made clear my skepticism.

I will say that he gave me what I needed most, someone to listen, physically hold and examine the same parts while we're discussing them, understand the issue, and make a real attempt to solve it.

In the last few months I bought many new parts that were crap from the word go. To be able to call a company and say, I bought your product from someone else, long ago, and they immediately take responsibility is a win, I need it and I'll take it.

I'll also see what I can find for fittings.

I hope this works.

I see brass fittings everywhere. Anyone know if you can use a brass fitting in an aluminum case?
 
I sent an email to FiTech requesting a call, they called me today.
They have been very helpful.

Today I found out the pump housing and pump were made by their sister company, Hyperfuel. Maybe I'm dumb, but I didn't realize that, it has Hyperfuel on the top but FiTech on the actual pump.

They have parted ways, so I asked if they have a new sister?

So I called Hypertech, an actual person answered, then transferred me to someone who was extremely helpful.

A long discussion, he grabbed the pump in question, we went over possible solutions, and he took my info and said he would call me back.

2 hours later he called back. He said they didn't have anything in house, so he went out in search of a proper fitting.

He's sending me what he came up with, fitting, some kind of efi low profile clamp, hose, and a new o-ring for the top of the housing.

He said he has never received this feedback, and would they would be working on an improvement to the pump.

He made it clear he believed his solution will work. I made clear my skepticism.

I will say that he gave me what I needed most, someone to listen, physically hold and examine the same parts while we're discussing them, understand the issue, and make a real attempt to solve it.

In the last few months I bought many new parts that were crap from the word go. To be able to call a company and say, I bought your product from someone else, long ago, and they immediately take responsibility is a win, I need it and I'll take it.

I'll also see what I can find for fittings.

I hope this works.

I see brass fittings everywhere. Anyone know if you can use a brass fitting in an aluminum case?
This sounds promising. I look forward to hearing how it works out.

And yes, you can use brass fittings in an aluminum case. Just be mindful of the threads to prevent galling.
 
Thank you.

When I had the 58psi it was a trip.

I took a couple short vids as evidence, just in case, the Hyperfuel guy actually asked for the pump test vid.

You have to hear these throttle bodies sucking air, they're huge.



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I took it for a short ride today, just to confirm the psi wasn't going to get any better, wishful thinking I know. It's at 5-10 psi now.

So, I figured I would share my thoughts here:
EFI In Tank Pump Baloney
 
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