FITECH FUEL COMMAND CENTER MODIFICATION

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hemidart69

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I read a lot on You tube about how they take the vent on the FCC and make it a return line back to the tank. I have not seen any results after the modification on how the car runs or any problems. Does any one have any knowledge of this?
Thank you
 
I have heard great things about doing this mod as it keeps it cooler and reduces the chance of vapor lock. I have also read about it getting so hot that fuel boils out of the vent port, but doing the mod will help prevent it.

There is a group on facebook that I frequently look at called 'Fitech EFI Users' I would suggest. The FCC is a common topic in this group.

Hope that helps
 
hemidart,

I just completed mine. Here lately its been in the 90's and my old setup would stall and start back up in 10 minutes. I already had converted the FCC vent to a full on return to the filler neck with a barb. Reusing the factory cannister vent line front to back. There is a rubber splice in the vent tube about midway I replaced with fuel injection grade hose , maybe 2 inches max. The vent seems to be ok at 1/4" diameter.

The hardest part of the mod is getting the lid off and on. I used WD-40 finally on the oring and my biggest channel locks to get into the notches around the circumference. I used a small punch on the back side of the pin that holds the brass filter stone that comes out to remove it. Then some vice grips to twist it out.

As far as operation the most notable thing is the inlet fuel pressure gage is either on 0 or between there and 3. That makes sense as the needle and seat are disabled.

Seems to run fine after some driving, deliberate long waits at idle with hood down and 185 deg engine temps. Engine start and stops too. Myself I would like a 5/16 return line but if this works I'll leave it be.

FYI,
Marion
 
mario03srt said:
hemidart,

I just completed mine. Here lately its been in the 90's and my old setup would stall and start back up in 10 minutes. I already had converted the FCC vent to a full on return to the filler neck with a barb. Reusing the factory cannister vent line front to back. There is a rubber splice in the vent tube about midway I replaced with fuel injection grade hose , maybe 2 inches max. The vent seems to be ok at 1/4" diameter.

The hardest part of the mod is getting the lid off and on. I used WD-40 finally on the oring and my biggest channel locks to get into the notches around the circumference. I used a small punch on the back side of the pin that holds the brass filter stone that comes out to remove it. Then some vice grips to twist it out.

As far as operation the most notable thing is the inlet fuel pressure gage is either on 0 or between there and 3. That makes sense as the needle and seat are disabled.

Seems to run fine after some driving, deliberate long waits at idle with hood down and 185 deg engine temps. Engine start and stops too. Myself I would like a 5/16 return line but if this works I'll leave it be.

FYI,
Marion
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the reply, Mine is doing the same as yours. I have a electric gremlin some place that I have to find. You have answered my question how the FCC acts after the modification.
Thanks again Tom
 
Does any one know if you can use the Fi Tech Hy-fuel Tight fight in tank pump PN#40015
from what i can tell you mount it threw the top of the tank ... but if im right there no room as the top of the tank rest against the trunk pan ...
 
I don't know about adding a in tank pump to a tank not made for it. I just scraped the FCC for a new tank made by Tanks Inc., a Walbro pump and sending unit for under $500 from Summit.
 
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