Oh, you want GOOD lifters?! I have a 512 solid roller big block that I run BAM lifters in. BAM also sells lifters for the small blocks for those who run them. Chrysler
Flat tappet to roller cam:
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There is not a solid roller lobe I’ve ever seen I would run at 180 on the seat.
It is death on the lifters.
I can tell you I’m 195 on the seat and 410 over the nose on a solid flat tappet cam and if I thought I could go higher I would.
If that’s what ANY cam grinder says they are saying that because as lobes started getting faster and faster, like I pointed out above, the cam grinders that didn’t think aggressive lobes make more power would tell everyone those lobes and springs were “parts killers”.
It was a lie then and now it’s just criminal.
You will never keep the valve train happy with spring loads like that. It’s absolutely insane to do that.
So rise above the lies and ignorance of these fools and spring the cam accordingly.
That means 240-260 on the seat and 600 plus over the nose.
And buy a lifter with a wheel diameter of .800-.815. I don’t much care for bushing lifters. I prefer needle bearings.
To that end, keep the idle oil pressure at no less than 30 psi, keep your idle speed no lower than 900 rpm, 950 is better and 1000 rpm is about golden.
I’ve seen more broken parts and pissed off valve trains from too little spring load than I ever have from too much spring load.
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hmmm so the range given was 160-200 on seat, >400 on open, youre saying I should be in the 240 range and 600? for this cam profile
JDMopar
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I'm pretty sure Hughes are just reboxed Morels. Try Bullet cams to see if they have some. Bullet gets them from Morel, takes them apart and cleans them, then pre squeezes them before they sell them.
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thanks, I called, they're sold out. Even the BAM's recommended above were sold out when I called. After 17 speed and cam shops this morning, finally found a set of Howards at Summit and scooped them up
Yes.
Like I said, with a .904 lifter I’m running that spring load on my SFT cam.
The cam is out now, and if I was home I’d take a picture of what 35 pulls on the dyno looks like.
It looks perfect.
Schneider and anyone else saying to use that little spring load on a solid roller lobe is just wrong.
I’ve got decades correcting that error. In fact, I started machining and building my own **** in 1989 because the machinist I used was such a prick about the spring I wanted to use that I fired him and did it myself.
I would have made far more money not being a machinist, but it was that big of a deal.
And here is the irony of it all.
I told him to buy a spring that would have been 260 on the seat and 6XX over the nose, and he ignored me and bought a spring that was 185 on the seat and 440 over the nose.
That was early 1989. We are 36 years past that insanity and the lie lives on.
Also of note, once I figured out the junk lifters (that would be any roller lifter with a .750 diameter wheel) I could run the engine to 8500 and when I felt froggy I’d shift at 9000.
The reason the cheap lifters have a .750 wheel is…wait for it…and…its because that’s the biggest wheel you can fit in the skimpy assed GM .842 lifter body.
That’s fact.
There is no reason to run a wheel that small.
Spend wisely. Stepping over a donut to grab a dog turd never saves money in the long run run.
And I know guys will say they’ve been running .750 wheels and 160 on the seat for 900,000 miles and never had a failure.
I don’t buy it.
If they have a .750 wheel send them back.
Comp makes a lifter with an .800 wheel. I don’t remember the part number for the BB lifter but it’s a good lifter.
Who do you have grinding your cams for you and are you running EDM lifters or keeping idle speed elevated to keep the cam oiled? Are you running a billet core?
MOPAROFFICIAL
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106 intake will run fine on the street as long as the duration isn't too long. Keep that duration in the 280s
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okay, youve sold me so far. But playing devil advocate here, what if any issues could a heavier spring cause? Any issues for a street/strip machine?
I never use EDM lifters. That hole is another leak that doesn’t do anything.
The reason most companies sell them is guys clamor for them so rather than educate the end user, who would probably ignore them and they’d lose the sale, they just sell them.
This cam is a Racer Brown cam. Nothing special.
The ONLY thing I do any more and I do it any time I can convince someone the cost is cheap for the results is cryogenically treating the cam and lifters.
I keep idle rpm at 950-1000 and my hot idle oil pressure at about 40 psi.
Of course, by the time you treat the cam and lifters you are close to the cost of a solid roller cam.
But you still need to buy the lifters and Pushrods and I avoid running solid roller lifters on 5/16 rocker shaft bolts
It’s death on those skimpy bolts. If the bolt doesnt fail I’ve seen rocker shafts fracture and you can see the distress in the saddles.
That’s why I have a SFT cam and not a roller. 5/16 rocker shaft bolts.
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I'll double check, but I think they're a .804 if i saw right.
Nope.
I will say the minimum pushrod diameter is 3/8. If I could get 3/8 in my heads on my SFT cam I would but I couldn’t fit them.
And I tried like a **** to get them in there.
3/8 diameter minimum. A single taper 7/16-3/8 is better.
And the thickest wall you can get.
Bigger diameter is always best. In other words I’d use a 3/8 .080 wall pushrod long before I’d use a 5/16 .120 walll.
I’d rather have a 3/8 pushrod AND a .120 wall.
In fact, I use 11/32 .120 wall pushrods and like I said, I would have went bigger yet if I could fit them.
If they are over .800 it’s a good lifter, not some .904 body with a .750 GM wheel.
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the Eddy's are capable of 3/8 pushrods and that was the plan. I'm having my machine shop guy check everything for clearance too.
I’m a firm believer there is no such thing as overkill in valve train.
I have seen a lot of underkill.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Agree. I am of the opinion though that a coast to coast driver, street/strip, auto cross 500hp big block does not need 650lbs over the nose on .850 rollers with 7/16 pushrods. Those things definitely have their place in 8500 rpm stuff, I just don’t think this is that.
That cam is too big if you want to drive "coast to coast". If you really want to drive the car a lot then you need to give up some peak power and focus on good mileage at cruise speed. You would need to take at least 10 degrees out of that cam to make it a good driver. You'll lose 30 or 40 HP off the top end, but you'll pick up torque down low and your mileage will increase.
I run a 239/245 on 112 Comp hyd roller in the 496 inch RB in my Coronet and it is a tad too big for my combination. I have the Sniper EFI and a Doug Nash 5 speed with a 3.23 rear gear in the Dana 60. First gear is 3.27 but it still isn't low enough for that cam. For just driving around town my car would be better off with a smaller cam. My engine makes a little over 600/600 so it is nice and rowdy once the revs come up, but it isn't smooth off idle in first gear.
You really need to go smaller on the cam if you want the car to be smooth and easy to drive. Especially with an overdrive transmission and EFI.
You really need to go smaller on the cam if you want the car to be smooth and easy to drive. Especially with an overdrive transmission and EFI.
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is that a FI tech?
No, it is a Sniper. I've run a Sniper on that car since they first came out. I did one of the first magazine Sniper installs back in 2017 and I've been running it every since. It works great but you need to keep the cam on the small side if you don't have a laptop. If you have a laptop then you can go with a bigger cam. The tuning becomes more complicated as the cam gets larger.
Holley HyperSpark: Install and Tune
Holley HyperSpark: Install and Tune
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Awesome thanks!
I've decided to go the Bullet grind option, it's a touch smaller than the Scheider, not by much but supposedly the lead time is less too. Coinciendtally, they recommended the same spring pressures as Scheids did but with a 22 thousands lash vs a 6 thousandths
I would recommend bushed with pressure fed rollers with the biggest diameter roller wheel you can find. Comp makes some good ones. I don't know which fancy name they are.
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I ended up going with Howard. Apparently Big Block Mopar Solid Roller Lifters are as rare as an original 71 Hemi Cuda convertible with a 4 speed. Comp, Isky, Crower, Hughes, BAM, Bullet, all sold out. I got the very last set of Howard Solid Lifters in the network.
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