Flat Tappets & their lube

[mopowers]

I’d have to make a phone call, but at one time like the early 2000’s Torco was doing a private label deal with Permatex and that bottle you have looks like Torco assembly lube.

Since it’s been 20 plus years Permatex may have found a different supplier.

Edit: that stuff in the bottle isn’t cam lube like I use. I know guys use it but it’s pretty runny for that. I suppose if you are going to assemble an engine and crack it off within a day or two it’s ok. Longer than that and I’d used the actual cam lube paste.

Oh, that video isn't mine. I just posted it because it clearly shows the clingy-ness of the Driven Assembly Gel. I agree with what you're saying though. Any engine I put together sits for some time before it's fired, so that's the #1 attribute I look for in an assembly lube.

 

[fishmens67]

Here ya go

 

[fishmens67]

or this

 

[gagembassett]

Alright I'm back, sorry about missing most of the conversation fellas. From what it looks like, that Torco sounds like the good stuff but I've never seen it anywhere. Looks like I need to start searching online!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Alright I'm back, sorry about missing most of the conversation fellas. From what it looks like, that Torco sounds like the good stuff but I've never seen it anywhere. Looks like I need to start searching online!

I think Summit carries it.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Alright I'm back, sorry about missing most of the conversation fellas. From what it looks like, that Torco sounds like the good stuff but I've never seen it anywhere. Looks like I need to start searching online!

What did Jim say?

 

[aaronk785]

I’m not saying it’s right, but I put a lot of engines together with lith-ease. Bearings, cam and lifter base. Never had a problem.

 

[92b]

I like the driven cam lube and BR oil.

 

[sr71mopar]

I used the red stuff from Comp. Been in there for 6 years.

 

[MopaR&D]

I bought a 1-lb tub of the Driven grease a few (10?) years ago, I like it because of the thick sticky consistency and the fact that it has moly in it. Molybdenum disulfide is what all the modern oils for engines with flat-face cam followers have, works like ZDDP but better. Probably can't go wrong with the Torco though, sounds like good stuff.

 

[fishmens67]

Molybdenum disulfide

Moly wheel bearing grease.

 

[ValiantRacing]

I got it on Amazon

Alright I'm back, sorry about missing most of the conversation fellas. From what it looks like, that Torco sounds like the good stuff but I've never seen it anywhere. Looks like I need to start searching online!

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I got it on Amazon

Torco on Amazon? ****. That’s better than Summit. I guess I need to look at Amazon.

Or I could call them a be a dealer again.

 

[fishmens67]

Whatever you're using if it doesn't come in a tub you can dip your hand in, you're not using enough.
Take off the gloves and lube it up, the more the merrier. oh and watch the spring pressure, it's a killer.
Too much spring pressure and not enough lube is a cam killer.
Also, drain the oil after break-in.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Whatever you're using if it doesn't come in a tub you can dip your hand in, you're not using enough.
Take off the gloves and lube it up, the more the merrier. oh and watch the spring pressure, it's a killer.
Too much spring pressure and not enough lube is a cam killer.
Also, drain the oil after break-in.

I use a brush. Once engine rolls over 98% of the lube gets wiped off the cam.

 

[NC Engine Builder]

If you didn't get the lifters refaced, even if new, its probably not going to make any difference what lube you choose. But hopefully you have zero problems

 

[fishmens67]

I use a brush. Once engine rolls over 98% of the lube gets wiped off the cam.

Your point. So you don't get your hands dirty, I see.
Truth be told there's nothing wrong with the Lubriplate 105 the OP was using, it will work just fine for cam break-in. Got few tubes of it around here somewhere myself.
But I guess for peace of mind Torco is the way he should go.
I know it's not 1980 anymore, someday I'll figure it out. lol

 

[fishmens67]

If you didn't get the lifters refaced, even if new, its probably not going to make any difference what lube you choose. But hopefully you have zero problems

That's part of preassembly inspection, inspect all the parts.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Your point. So you don't get your hands dirty, I see.
Truth be told there's nothing wrong with the Lubriplate 105 the OP was using, it will work just fine for cam break-in. Got few tubes of it around here somewhere myself.
But I guess for peace of mind Torco is the way he should go.
I know it's not 1980 anymore, someday I'll figure it out. lol

I just don’t like getting the stuff on my gloves. And it ends up all over everything. I end up looking like pigpen.

Especially if I’m using the black stuff.

Then it gets in the house, the old lady goes psycho because I get a smudge on a towel.

Then I have to stop and super clean the towels and that irritates me.

So I use a brush.

 

[scooby67]

I just replaced the cam in my 340.
I used Permatex assembly lube, and a can of zinc additive to the Rotella 15W-40.

 

[NC Engine Builder]

That's part of preassembly inspection, inspect all the parts.

The only problem is this issue isn't clear to the naked eye out of the box

 

[fishmens67]

The only problem is this issue isn't clear to the naked eye out of the box

That's where a dial indicator comes in

 

[NC Engine Builder]

That's where a dial indicator comes in

That doesn't work either

 

[fishmens67]

That doesn't work either

Hum, I was taught to measure the outer edge and the center, should be about a 0.0022 difference at the crown.

 

[NC Engine Builder]

Hum, I was taught to measure the outer edge and the center, should be about a 0.0022 difference at the crown.

That wont tell you if it was machined concentric