For anyone wanting to convert the A body from 5x4 over to 5x4.5

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joeswim

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I have a 65 dart I wanted to use 15 inch wheels on, in stead of the small 13 in that were on it. I did some research and came up with these ideas that worked perfectly. If anyone is in the same boat and wants to try it, it will work... her is my solution.

I converted the front and rear end of my 65 dart to except 5x4.5 wheels. The front was the easy part. I just took the spindles from a 76 duster, they bolted right on, no problem. The next hurdle was to find a set of wheels that would work with my new bolt pattern. After much research I found that 87 to 96 jeep wrangler wheels will work just fine. The center bore is 2 13/16 in, which fit the 76 spindles perfectly. The next obstacle to over come was the rear end. I had to get 1" thick wheel spacers with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern, at first, all seemed perfect until I noticed that it was going to be lug centric not hub centric. I looked for replacement axles that were hub centric with 2 13/16 bore... no luck. So I had a local machine shop to make me 2 sleeves out of 4140 stock. The inside bore was 2.32, the outside was 2 13/16 "same as the wheels" and length was 1 3/4 in. I had the break drums bored out to 2 7/8 in to make sure the sleeve would fit against axle face snugly. I then bolted on the spacer, then the wheels. I slid the sleeves into the wheel bore until it contacted the axle face. They fit perfectly. I mig welded the inside of the axle flange to the sleeve. All of this worked perfectly. I feel much safer now that I know the rear wheels are holding the weight... not just the lugs. The sleeves cost me 50 bucks. For anyone wanting to convert to 15 in wheels for their abody darts, this is the way to go.
 
Pictures as you went through/after the process?

Welding on the axle flange change the strength of the flange?
 
Congrats on your conversion, but in my opinion there are better options. While i admire hot rodding, spacers, sleeves, no thanks.
73-76 spindles do not just bolt on. They require the upper control arms changed as well from a 73-76.
All good there. Most would either change the axles in their 8.75 to big bolt or swap out to a 73 up 7.25 or 8.25. Easier than any of this is to buy a set of 15" small bolt wheels from Wheel Vintiques ect.
Anyways, if its good for you, thats all that matters.
 
don't sweat "hub centric"

LOTS of wheels don't even have that option.

Centered by lug studs is the same...centered.
 
Pictures as you went through/after the process?

Welding on the axle flange change the strength of the flange?
No. The type of steel used on auto motive use is fabrication grade metal. The only exception I think would be spring steel.
 
don't sweat "hub centric"

LOTS of wheels don't even have that option.

Centered by lug studs is the same...centered.
Well my desire to make it hub centric was based on paranoia, not necessity. Hub centric does not mean centered. It refers to where the weight of the vehicle will be displaced... ie the lugs or the hub of the axle.
 
Congrats on your conversion, but in my opinion there are better options. While i admire hot rodding, spacers, sleeves, no thanks.
73-76 spindles do not just bolt on. They require the upper control arms changed as well from a 73-76.
All good there. Most would either change the axles in their 8.75 to big bolt or swap out to a 73 up 7.25 or 8.25. Easier than any of this is to buy a set of 15" small bolt wheels from Wheel Vintiques ect.
Anyways, if its good for you, thats all that matters.
When I said spindle I meant the whole assembly form the 76 duster. The only thing that did not bolt up was the lower ball joint. I had to get the BJ for a 76 duster. It all bolted up perfectly. They don't make 7.25 5x4.5 replacement axle for 65 a bodys. I don't have the skills to swap out rear ends nor the money to invest into that type of swap. Plus I did all that for about 100 bucks total.
 
Not to ague too much but you have five 7/16 or 1/2 inch case hardened studs supporting 1/4 the weight of the car on a shoulder before the threads start.

You are probably OK with only three per wheel.

Unless you are baja racing there shouldn't be an issue
 
This is easy if you don't mind two different bolt patterns and like the Rally Wheel.
I just ordered 2 wheels with the large pattern and 2 with the small pattern.
When I get around to installing my big bolt pattern 8 1/4" rear axle then I'll order 2 more large pattern wheels and offer up the 2 small bolt pattern wheels without the trim rings.

Can you tell without knowing ...

Dart Left.jpg
 
I got off cheap. I bought 2 Chevy II 15x8 centerline ( they are biased toward the front for deep backspacing to fit similar chevy fender covered rear wheels) and drilled a 5 on 4 pattern between the 5 on 4.75 pattern with a hand drill! I cheated a bit and used some 6th grade geometry as I used the large 3.125 ish center register as a datum point and just used a divider set up off its ID to scribe a 5 on 4 bolt circle and used same divider to cut the 4" bolt circle into 5 equal segments. With drill in hand I drilled said bolt holes and then fabricated a centering ring for the Axle boss and the rim register out of brass on a lathe. Darn things measure almost no radial runnout and the rim is hubcentric so the lugs need not be 100% accurate as they are only holding the rim onto the register.
 
I also cheated back in the 80's, I used the same adapters that the OP used, knocked out the 4.5 circle studs, bolted back on and used it as a guide/pattern for the hand drill,
Pressed in 1/2" studs.....Done.
Worked great.
 
Okay, for all my mopar life I dropped in a BBP 8 3/4 to do the conversion, now I have a 68 dart and don't want to change out the rear end, even if I could find one here- how do I make the BBP swap on the rear of this old dart? Buy new axles?
 
Well my desire to make it hub centric was based on paranoia, not necessity. Hub centric does not mean centered. It refers to where the weight of the vehicle will be displaced... ie the lugs or the hub of the axle.

Actually, once the lug nuts are properly torqued, the load isn't on the hub or lug bolts.

The load is on the friction interface between the wheel and its mounting surface (brake drum (then brake drum to axle flange) or disk rotor)
 
I'm pretty sure after 72 when the big bolt pattern came out the 7 1/4 was still available. So BBP axles should be readily available as well as the whole 7 1/4. The 8 1/4 is also a good choice. But as you know the A-body 8 3/4 was always SBP.
 
I'm pretty sure after 72 when the big bolt pattern came out the 7 1/4 was still available. So BBP axles should be readily available as well as the whole 7 1/4. The 8 1/4 is also a good choice. But as you know the A-body 8 3/4 was always SBP.
Best place for me to buy them these days?
 
Okay, for all my mopar life I dropped in a BBP 8 3/4 to do the conversion, now I have a 68 dart and don't want to change out the rear end, even if I could find one here- how do I make the BBP swap on the rear of this old dart? Buy new axles?
I'd have the axles and drums drilled for the new bolt pattern. If you use screw in studs it'll leave more metal around the holes, and be stronger. 7/16" screw in studs will leave even more!
 
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