Frame connector install on a 2 post car lift

[Kern Dog]

I've read before that it is advised to install frame connectors with the car either on a 4 post-drive on type lift or on jackstands with the weight of the car bearing on its tires.
I have also seen bare shells on rotisseries with frame connectors being added.
Soon I am going to begin work on a 65 Valiant Convertible. The owner wants some handling improvements including chassis stiffening. It currently is a roller with no engine/trans or interior in it.
I'm curious of any troubles I might encounter by doing the chassis stiffening while elevated on a 2 post lift. I'd think the lack of engine and trans would reduce flex with the car in the air as compared to a complete car. My thinking is that if the door gaps are consistant with the car in the air, it should be safe to install the connectors.
I plan to use 3x3 .120 wall tubing cut and boxed to sit against the floor, similar to these that I made for my brother in laws 72 Duster. The one with the diagonal groove is to provide clearance for the parking brake cable.

 

[famous bob]

I've read before that it is advised to install frame connectors with the car either on a 4 post-drive on type lift or on jackstands with the weight of the car bearing on its tires.
I have also seen bare shells on rotisseries with frame connectors being added.
Soon I am going to begin work on a 65 Valiant Convertible. The owner wants some handling improvements including chassis stiffening. It currently is a roller with no engine/trans or interior in it.
I'm curious of any troubles I might encounter by doing the chassis stiffening while elevated on a 2 post lift. I'd think the lack of engine and trans would reduce flex with the car in the air as compared to a complete car. My thinking is that if the door gaps are consistant with the car in the air, it should be safe to install the connectors.
I plan to use 3x3 .120 wall tubing cut and boxed to sit against the floor, similar to these that I made for my brother in laws 72 Duster. The one with the diagonal groove is to provide clearance for the parking brake cable.

I put mine on jackstands, and did my best to level them, (garage floor sucks) the door gaps were all good and didn`t change ! cut mine into the floor and used 2x2 square tubing installed inside the frame on the rear, and welded the full length of the floor, seems to be very stout! they stuck thru the floor about 3/4", put 3/4" ins. in to make it all level before the new carpet, looks pretty decent.

 

[6pkScamp]

I put mine on jackstands, and did my best to level them, (garage floor sucks) the door gaps were all good and didn`t change ! cut mine into the floor and used 2x2 square tubing installed inside the frame on the rear, and welded the full length of the floor, seems to be very stout! they stuck thru the floor about 3/4", put 3/4" ins. in to make it all level before the new carpet, looks pretty decent.

X 2 :thumbup: That's the way I did it

 

[Brad4406]

I put my jackstands under the rear axle and lower control arms so it was supported by the suspension just as it would be on 4 wheels. I used 2X3 rectangle tubing. Instead of modding the connectors for the brake cable, I just drilled a hole above the bar on that side and relocated the cable above it.

People have argued whether the vehicle needs to be supported under the suspension or can be supported by the frame for years on Mopar related sites. I honestly believe the way you plan to do it will be fine Greg, as long as you check the doors prior to just before welding.

 

[Jim Lusk]

People overthink this. I put the connectors on my Barracuda convertible supported at the front with caster under the bumper mounting points, the rear with casters under the front spring hanger, and the doors off (stripped body). When I put the fenders and doors back on everything fit fine...

 

[Bad Sport]

I've read before that it is advised to install frame connectors with the car either on a 4 post-drive on type lift or on jackstands with the weight of the car bearing on its tires.

The big thing is to check the doors for opening and closing before you weld, if they function as they should and the gaps look good up on the lift then you'll probably be fine.

I would check them before lifting, and after you raise it to see if there are any appreciable differences.