Frame connectors on a street car

-
hosehead

hosehead

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
1,279
Reaction score
1,027
Location
Springfield Mo
My 70 340, 4-speed swinger is (hopefully) heading to paint next month and my painter buddy is insisting on installing frame connectors. The cars has front and rear torque boxes and should be around a high 12 sec car. He wants to make some that protrude through the rear floor pans. Seems like I could get away with the us car tool weld on ones? I am also seeing us car tool has a a-body bolt on frame connector now. Has anyone tried these? My painter friend has been telling me horror stories about freshly painted 4-speed cars cracking the paint due to twisting. Do you guys think the weld on, under the cars ones would be okay? Thanks all! :burnout:
 
I don't see why not. I just purchased a set of bolt in ones from Mancini plan on installing them this week.
 
No, to bolt in frame connectors.

Weld them in place. The car will ride much more solid with connectors.
 
Thanks everyone! I appreciate all the replies! I'm not against the connectors at all, just don't want to cut up the floors of the car.
 
I just got out of the garage doing some final welding on my US Car Tools frame connectors for my 71 Barracuda. They fit good. I think I spent about 45 minutes on each one doing a little grinding to get them to fit the way I wanted to. I am welding about a 3/4 inch bead every two to three inches on each side along the floor boards. Some people weld the entire length. I don't think that is necessary.
 
I put the US Cartools ones an my 64 Barracuda and love them. Helped a friend make some from rectangular steel tubing for his 65 Barracuda. The doors shut more solidly on both cars with than without. The ride is significantly improved on both. I doubt if you went from car to car blindfolded you could tell the difference. I recommend frame connectors.
 
What's wrong with the bolt in connectors? I got a good deal on them so went that route. Plus i figured the tubular design would be stronger than the us cartool style. I figured I could always weld them later if needed.
 
I think ALL the unibody Mopars should have been tied.

IMO, the US Car Tool ones are the closest to what the factory would have done.
 
2x3 steel tubing, a sawzall, a floor jack and a welder............done a dozen of them. Cut into the rear spring box, weld in, jack up the front of the bar under pressure and check door alignment-get it where they look,feel,and open/close right and weld the crap out of em. Makes such a difference in the car, I have put them in Slant6 street cars just to tighten the feel of the car up. Good way to use up a Saturday afternoon!
 
63-66 A body. Looks like factory! (your results may vary) lol
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0003-7-Large.jpg
    36.1 KB · Views: 374
I bought a set of Hotchkis connectors for my 71 duster. hate to bend the poor car up. Welded in very nice install.
 
toolmanmike said:
63-66 A body. Looks like factory! (your results may vary) lol
Click to expand...

Man, I cant even see them in that pic! Thats about as stealthy as you could get. I did exactly what Gotmoparhuh did, jacked up center so door would align (it moved! shows you have deflection) and welded in. Bolt ins are great, just weld them in afterwords....:)
 
You can make a set at home out of 2x2 or 2x3.

Simple set up on the orange 70 Dart using 2x2 .090 wall.




 
63-66 A body subframe connectors and torque boxes. Nice!
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0045-5-Large.jpg
    27.8 KB · Views: 326
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top