Fresh Air Vent Rust

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Dragnut

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So im looking for some suggestions on the best way to fix this, I am going to delete the fresh air vent and seal up the hole but the more I prepped the hole to weld in a piece of steel to close up the hole, the more pin holes appeared. I afraid the metal is to thin and will just disappear if I hit it with the welder even at the lowest setting....

PIN.jpg
 
I would use brush on undercoat (top and bottom) until all the holes are filled. Then I would cut a piece of metal to cover the hole and apply one good heavy coat of undercoat (on top) to glue the metal plate over the hole. Once it cures undercoat the whole thing one more time. At first you can use duct tape to cover the holes from one side so that the undercoat doesn't drip through to get them to seal up. My 2 cents!!!
 
That sounds like a plan..I do have some Tiger Hair left over and I think that is basically the same as Duraglas...
 
If it were mine I would be doing some major surgery to replace all the rusty panels. However, seam sealer will fill those holes. Undercoating would not be my first choice. You could also get some of eastwoods internal frame coating to seal up the rest of the inside of the cowl. I used it on my car and then ran a camera through the cowl and it had complete coverage. It took two cans to do the inside of the cowl.
 
If you fill holes with rust in them, the rust will continue to spread.
 
I've painted over rusted iron (iron gates) with the brush on undercoat. The gate has been outside in a very harsh salt air, high humidity environment for 15 years. The rust has never come through or propagated at all. I can personally vouch for this stuff. It will not ever let rust spread because it contains some kind of rubber compound that seals the surface. Without air/moisture it's impossible for rust to grow. I've used this stuff on everything that is made of metal and it has never failed me. It's a little expensive ($70/can) but that one can can undercoat 20 cars (brush on)!! I do always knock all the loose rust flakes off the metal but in reality any roughness only give the undercoat more to bond to. In fact I never remove all the rust because then all you have is a clean smooth metal surface with no rough finish for the undercoat to adhere to....it will still stick pretty darn good but I like for it to bond with all its' strength.


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If it were mine I would be doing some major surgery to replace all the rusty panels. However, seam sealer will fill those holes. Undercoating would not be my first choice. You could also get some of eastwoods internal frame coating to seal up the rest of the inside of the cowl. I used it on my car and then ran a camera through the cowl and it had complete coverage. It took two cans to do the inside of the cowl.
I agree...I would normally fire up the plasma and cut it out and replace but there is no way to get in there to work. And its not accessible from the topside.
 
Yes, the A body cowl is a real pain in the ***. One of the few engineering fails by mopar. I was lucky on my car and the cowl was in perfect condition.
The only real way to do it would be drill all the spot welds and lift the top of the cowl off.
 
Yes, the A body cowl is a real pain in the ***. One of the few engineering fails by mopar. I was lucky on my car and the cowl was in perfect condition.
The only real way to do it would be drill all the spot welds and lift the top of the cowl off.
Does that require removing the windshield?
 
I have never removed the cowl but yes I would say the windshield will have to come out.
 
I have never removed the cowl but yes I would say the windshield will have to come out.
I just installed a new windshield on the car last spring and there’s no way I’m pullin it back out so I will have to deal with it from under the dash... thanks for the info Mike.
 
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