FROM MANUAL TO POWER

[WAYNE0]

I have manual brakes on my 67 barracuda. I bought & installed a newer style 2 bolt master cylinder. I have been thinking about putting on power brakes. I have all 4 disk brakes. If i decide to go with power can i use the adapter & 2 bolt master cylinder on the booster ?

 

[Dana67Dart]

IMHO, dont complicate your life

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble!

 

[MidnightSwinger]

It looks like you can use the adapter on the stock style booster:

Bob's Component Resto, Part 29: Upgraded Master Cylinder

I’ve got the brackets you need for the swap [FOR SALE] - Late A Body Power Brake brackets

 

[Bewy]

It depends....
It depends on the bore size of the m/c & the booster you want to fit.
If the current man brakes work well, stops the car with reasonable pedal effort, then adding a booster might make the brakes overly sensitive & prone to locking up.

 

[PlymCrazy]

Another thing to consider is vacuum needed for the brake booster as well. If you have a hot cam it could considerably impact available vacuum to run the booster. I had to go with electric vacuum pump for this reason on the Roadrunner.

 

[Mtrhead]

Yes...you can

 

[dano]

Have you considered a Hydroboost set up?

 

[67Dart273]

You don't need power for disk brakes. "The secret" if there is one, is the size of the master bore. And of course that the brakes are actually working as they should, the disks in good shape and proper selection of pad material and break in. That is, the disks, / pads are not glazed.

My 67 has been apart for some time, but last it was together had 4x disk brakes and the original 67 Master. I could lock up the brakes at highway speed, no problem. I'm 74 now, and my legs weren't all that strong a few years ago.

 

[WAYNE0]

I have 4 wheel disk brakes & every thing is new. I dont have the pedal feel like i think i should. I am going to bleed them again then see if that helps. I have had cars before with manual brakes but never with all 4 disks.

 

[67Dart273]

Manual brakes should be "rock hard." Make sure your bleeders are all "up" at the highest point AKA lots of guys switch calipers side to side so they are to front of rotor instead of to rear. You must switch calipers to get the bleeders "UP"

 

[WAYNE0]

Manual brakes should be "rock hard." Make sure your bleeders are all "up" at the highest point AKA lots of guys switch calipers side to side so they are to front of rotor instead of to rear. You must switch calipers to get the bleeders "UP"

yep they are all up the only thing i did different this time is i bought a self bleeder kit so can bleed them by my self i got plenty of fluid out of each one im going to ask a friend to stop by & bleed them with the pedal

 

[67Dart273]

yep they are all up the only thing i did different this time is i bought a self bleeder kit so can bleed them by my self i got plenty of fluid out of each one im going to ask a friend to stop by & bleed them with the pedal

Where did you get that kit?

 

[WAYNE0]

Where did you get that kit?

Harbor Freight

 

[Bewy]

[1] If you have a hard pedal, then you do not have air in the system.
[2] System. THE most important word. 'Cause the brakes work as a system.
[3] Disk brakes require about 50% more line pressure than drum brakes. So if you are using a drum brake M/C with disc brakes, the bore is probably too large & will result in a hard pedal & poor braking performance. The solution here would be a smaller M/C. These are general principles; you would need to check with the disk supplier which M/C you need & the M/C for power brakes will likely have a bigger bore.
[4] This is a case of measure twice, cut once...

 

[WAYNE0]

[1] If you have a hard pedal, then you do not have air in the system.
[2] System. THE most important word. 'Cause the brakes work as a system.
[3] Disk brakes require about 50% more line pressure than drum brakes. So if you are using a drum brake M/C with disc brakes, the bore is probably too large & will result in a hard pedal & poor braking performance. The solution here would be a smaller M/C. These are general principles; you would need to check with the disk supplier which M/C you need & the M/C for power brakes will likely have a bigger bore.
[4] This is a case of measure twice, cut once...

This is the master cylinder i was told i needed for disks brakes.

 

[Bewy]

No way of knowing the bore size unless it is identified on the body. If no markings, you will need to unbolt it & measure it. You probably have enough brake line to move it away from the f/wall far enough without removing the brake lines.

 

[WAYNE0]

No way of knowing the bore size unless it is identified on the body. If no markings, you will need to unbolt it & measure it. You probably have enough brake line to move it away from the f/wall far enough without removing the brake lines.

ill check it out this weekend thanks

 

[WAYNE0]

Had a friend help bleed the brakes this weekend. We did each wheel 3 time just to make sure. The pedal is better but still semi soft & you still have to pump the pedal to get it good & stiff. Come to think of it the brake valve looks new but is for front & rear drum. Should that be changed ?