Front disc brake swap question.

[HemiD@rt]

I picked up a kit from cpp and just realized I got the one without the master/booster. What relatively cheap setups are you guys running? It's going in a 67 dart.

Thanks

 

[mopardude318]

are you dead set on power brakes? I have 2 A-bodies with manual brakes, pedal is not harsh at all. I use the later model aluminum 2 bolt master cylinder with the adapter plate from mancini, AR Engineering, etc. I use the 1 1/8 bore unit.

 

[HemiD@rt]

Not sure...

Am I on the right track here or am I in left field?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-g80011001

 

[805moparkid]

not to many hemi darts in AZ i dont know about. pics of your car?

 

[805moparkid]

are you dead set on power brakes? I have 2 A-bodies with manual brakes, pedal is not harsh at all. I use the later model aluminum 2 bolt master cylinder with the adapter plate from mancini, AR Engineering, etc. I use the 1 1/8 bore unit.

if its a hemi there is no P/B going in it... and the offset plate is a must, but comes in two or 4 bolt

 

[HemiD@rt]

Here are a couple pics.

 

[HemiD@rt]

if its a hemi there is no P/B going in it... and the offset plate is a must, but comes in two or 4 bolt

What would you recommend? Part numbers would help big time. My head is spinning from everything.

 

[805moparkid]

What would you recommend? Part numbers would help big time. My head is spinning from everything.

i was assuming a gen II hemi! but looking at the pic it looks roughly the same width in the places that hurt! with the offset plate you might be able to run P/B with the small diameter boosters, think its an 8", but why? manual brakes stop just as good...

pick your poison on 2 or 4 bolt. you can get disc/drum master easy but the disc/disc is tricky. have to look up a 87 dodge ramcharger 4x4 with the 360, they had 4 wheel disc on some. as for the two bolt masters you can use most any of the new ones with the bore size you like (think its 1 1/8).

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/ofmascylad.html

on the rod you will need to move it to the other side of the brake pedal, and lengthen it 1" with a peice of 3/8" rod. just splice and weld, easy pezy. also mock up the plate and mark the sheet metal thats in the way and cut that out of the way.

 

[HemiD@rt]

Cool. Thanks. We will have to meet up some time.

 

[805moparkid]

Cool. Thanks. We will have to meet up some time.

where are you at? were up in New river

 

[HemiD@rt]

I'm out in Mesa fairly. I live right around the corner from the Saturday night car show at power and the 60

 

[805moparkid]

I'm out in Mesa fairly. I live right around the corner from the Saturday night car show at power and the 60

cool cool. where did you get the hood?

 

[HemiD@rt]

I got it from a guy down in Tucson. He had a yellow dart.

 

[HemiD@rt]

So will something like this work?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-m-83028/overview/make/dodge/model/dart

 

[HemiD@rt]

Will I need a porportioning valve with that master?

 

[67Dart273]

It's not the master that determines whether you need a prop valve. It's the front/ rear "bias" of the effectiveness of the fronts in relation to the rear. I would NOT screw with a factory prop valve. Buy an aftermarket adjustable. Summit sells them, not expensive.

What the master (bore) determines is the pedal pressure, smaller master = less pedal pressure but more pedal MOVEMENT

 

[HemiD@rt]

Ahh. That is good info! Thanks