Fuel injection or aluminum heads

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73duster513

73duster513

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Ok this is my dilemma
I have a 73 duster with a stock 318 other than edelbrock 4 barrel and intake
I have a msd ignition system to install
Long tube headers and a mild purple cam
I have enough in my budget to buy a holley sniper system or mopar performance aluminum heads P5153849
What is my better option to buy now and save and buy the other at later date
I drive mostly on the street
 
Depends on what your goal is. The heads will give you a pretty good power increase in combo with a cam. The Sniper won't do anything to make you faster, but will give a more refined driving experience and easier starting, in general.
 
Get the EFI and then use the money saved on gas to buy the heads next year
 
The heads will not do squat if the combo is wrong, AKA not enough compression ratio. You need to ask yourself "what are" your goals and how much do I want to spend. Whether EFI or aluminum heads, there are LOTS of extra costs associated
 
Neither.
Both come with unanticipated costs. If your budget is tight, save the dollars until you can afford both - then do one.

Heads are likely to require new pushrods, or rockers, or both. When I did my TF heads, I planned to re-use my rockers. Didn't work out. So another $750 for rocker kit and new pushrods. Then there's also the cost of the fluids, gaskets, sealer, etc. Plus, those heads might not do much for you anyway other than reduce weight (especially in the wallet area). Are they even actually available? Every time I've tried to buy MP parts, I get my order cancelled and told not available. Also, wisdom back in the day was that they're just re-boxed edel heads anyway. So also budget a few hundred to check springs, guides, seals, etc.

EFI is likely to require additional wiring, wiring changes, fuel pumps, tanks, lines, filters, hose ends, etc. You can easily spend another $500-1500 over the cost of the sniper kit just to get the EFI working. I have an FItech system with an in-tank pump, tanks-inc tank, and ran a new 3/8 hard line and use the original feed as my return line - all of which cost over and above the cost of the EFI kit. Then there was the AN hose ends, new fuel line, and I did my own wiring conversion to add a relay and power the pump. I even had to upgrade my alternator to get the idle voltage up enough to keep the pump happy. Like I said, lots of unanticipated supporting changes needed.

If the plan is to do it one piece at a time, go for it. But if you're trying to do a weekend swap with a price-point in mind, it rarely goes that route. Just sayin'.
 
Scody21 said:
That’s what she said…

Wait, your putting an LS in Vixen :poke:

That’s just wrong, at least add some boost first… :elmer:
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Ha! I'd put this 331 Hemi in her before that. lol
 
If you’re going EFI the do it right and get a multiport setup and ditch the wet manifold. As stated above also do it correctly and put the fuel pump in the tank. And also as stated above, plan on another $1K in a fuel system.
 
I think a better approach might be to state what you have (which you did briefly) and state what you would like to accomplish (which you have not even attempted). Then state your budget (still a bold "no") and ask for "opinions". Even with more detail, you will get conflicting answers. What do you hope to achieve?!?
 
Others know way more than I do but id think if your heads are in good shape, valves all seating properly, id save my money
My 383 was about the same as your engine modification wise..... Plus it was just rebuilt. It was not running right at idle and I knew something was wrong.
One cylinder head had bad intake valves. Its a long story but the end result was I went with Edelbock E street heads. The car ran much better had a better idle and more vacuum.....Performance improved but not day and night wise....
By the time you buy the heads, buy gaskets, change the oil, plus whatever else creeps up you will be looking at 2 grand
maybe changing rear end gears might be looking into
 
mpgmike said:
I think a better approach might be to state what you have (which you did briefly) and state what you would like to accomplish (which you have not even attempted). Then state your budget (still a bold "no") and ask for "opinions". Even with more detail, you will get conflicting answers. What do you hope to achieve?!?
Click to expand...
I have a 1972 stock 318 other than eddy 4 barrel and intake with stock manifolds
Does not smoke at all
727 transmission
8 1/4 suregrip rearend 3.23 gear
I would like more power and reliability I drive on the street and highway mostly I want to be able to jump on the highway and run 70 mph for 2 to 3 hours without having the rpm tapped out for that long hence why I have 3.23 gear
Parts I already have to put on it
Purple cam 410/425. 211/218 @ .50
110 c-line
Msd 6la with distributor and blaster coil
And a set of long tube headers (unknown manufacturer)
I have roughly $2500 to spend as for now
 
73duster513 said:
I have a 1972 stock 318 other than eddy 4 barrel and intake with stock manifolds
Does not smoke at all
727 transmission
8 1/4 suregrip rearend 3.23 gear
I would like more power and reliability I drive on the street and highway mostly I want to be able to jump on the highway and run 70 mph for 2 to 3 hours without having the rpm tapped out for that long hence why I have 3.23 gear
Parts I already have to put on it
Purple cam 410/425. 211/218 @ .50
110 c-line
Msd 6la with distributor and blaster coil
And a set of long tube headers (unknown manufacturer)
I have roughly $2500 to spend as for now
Click to expand...

What do you think efi would accomplish? Compared to a well tuned carb, you won't save enough gas to pay for the efi. I went from 10-12mpg to 12-13mpg on average.

Aluminum heads could help or hurt your combo. A 72 vintage 318 likely doesn't gave enough compression to make the juice worth the squeeze.

If you HAD to choose one, I'd suggest the efi since I don't think heads will gain you anything unless the future plan is to upgrade significantly. But a significantly racey 318 would absolutely suck for 3 hrs at a time on the highway. Build a truck motor, which can still benefit from a larger head, and you'd be better off. But those heads aren't going to improve all that much in your typical highway rpm range and rebuilding the engine into a stump puller seems like a lot of work compared to what you're asking.

I think as recommended above, a better converter would probably yield more smiles per mile and not tank your mpgs either.
 
For the money in a 318, I'd do some real pistons for some compression ([SOLD] - 318 Pistons KB399) . Id pocket port the heads, just clean up the bores and then run a taller rear gear and a 2800+ stall convertor. I think that combo would break the tires loose at will.
 
Yank a running 5.2 Magnum, ECM and wire harness. Upgrade your fuel pump and your set for a daily cruiser.
 
Heads = Power

Why do you think LS are so good.
 
I’ll throw in my $.02, install the cam, ignition and headers. Get the timing right, tune the carb right and use the extra cash for gas and cruise it!
:steering:
 
MomsDuster said:
I’ll throw in my $.02, install the cam, ignition and headers. Get the timing right, tune the carb right and use the extra cash for gas and cruise it!
:steering:
Click to expand...
And a good stall converter will still be a bigger improvement than those 3 together. But he has them and some cash so with them and a good converter he will have a great package. Kim
 
73duster513 said:
I have a 1972 stock 318 other than eddy 4 barrel and intake with stock manifolds. Does not smoke at all; 727 transmission/8 1/4 suregrip rearend 3.23 gear
I would like more power and reliability I drive on the street and highway mostly I want to be able to jump on the highway and run 70 mph for 2 to 3 hours without having the rpm tapped out for that long hence why I have 3.23 gear
Parts I already have to put on it
Purple cam 410/425. 211/218 @ .50/110 c-line
Msd 6la with distributor and blaster coil
And a set of long tube headers (unknown manufacturer)
I have roughly $2500 to spend as for now
Click to expand...

WHERE do you want more power?
Off the line?
for passing?
at 90mph?
In First gear, Second, Or top Gear?
EFI does not make more power; well, at your power level not worth talking about anyway.
Alloy heads, with no other changes, over your current heads, just the material alone, will actually cost you power.
YOU did not mention having a hi-stall convertor, which is the FIRST place I would stick my money.
I highly recommend a compression test, with this cam in it, before you spend a nickle

Bear in mind that most guys wanting "power" are usually looking for bottom-end "torque" and tire spin. With 27" tires and 3.23s; 70=2815@ zeroslip, maybe up to 2900 depending on terrain. I have run a 2800TC on that and loved it.
 
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I believe it is a stock converter. I have never really messed with converters let alone high stall converters. I like the thought and idea. Now have to research it and see how may spline shaft i have, and what size converter. I guess I would be looking for bottom end torque to spin the tires
 
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