fuel odor in and under trunk

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David Dickerson

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I am getting a fuel odor when I get a change in temperature in my trunk and around the fuel tank. I don't notice one when the temperature remains constant and the garage is closed. I am wondering if it could be my fuel vent hose. I ran the hose from the tank, through the trunk floor and out my fuel filler door. I have a roll over vent valve inside the fuel door. I am wondering if it could be the hose that I used. I used clear flexible PVC hose. Does anyone know if gas will permeate through PVC? I thought it should be fine for fumes. I can't find any signs of leaks anywhere. The tank is original, but was super clean inside, and never had any leaks. I used US radiator gas tank liner just to be sure. This is a new build, so everything is new. I did notice that when the temperature gets warmer and I smell gas, the hose seems to be a little softer in places.
 
Rollover valve will not stop fumes.
An evap canister and all related components will solve most of your issue.
Not willing to add the necessary parts? Ventilate garage or park it outside.
I’m sure thats not what you want to hear (read) but i had the same issue with an off brand a few years ago,and fumes were really bad when driving. Especially with less than 1/2 a tank.
 
Funny that I don't smell any fuel by the valve which is totally isolated from the trunk. The smell seems to be more around where the hose is.
 
Clear pvc isnt designed for fuel. There are fuel resistant clear fuel lines out there,tagon (sp?) tubing, yellow in color. As well as a blue colored line used in off road vehicles.atv’s and such.
 
Filler grommet might be a source, but I know these cars vent fumes.
 
a. Fuel hose must be a material that is impermeable or components of the fuel will seep through even if it doesn't leak. Go to Gates website or similar for more about stuff like that.

b. If the vehicle uses open vents, there will always be some fuel in the air. A fully closed vent system includes a charcoal canister, flap valve in the aircleaner snorkel(s), carburetor bowl vent(s) that open to the charcoal cannister isn't running, fuel tank vent connection to charcoal cannister, non-vented fuel cap.

c. Winter fuel is allowed higher RVP than summer fuel. Makes for easier starting in cold weather and uses cheaper components. Get days with 80*F+ plus air temps and winter fuel and the lighter parts of that fuel are vaporizing. Drivability will go down. Vapor lock issue become more likely. Hot days and winter fuel are just bad news for us. May 1 is the mandatory date for refiners to supply Summer fuel. BUT, retailers have until June 1 to be fully switched over. One nice thing about NY State, IIRC, is that they do not give E10 fuels extra allowance for higher RVP even in the areas which must sell reformulated fuel.
Date of switch to summer-grade gasoline approaches - Today in Energy - U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA)
Gasoline-characteristics-street-pump-then-and-now
 
I ran the hose from the tank,

What year is the car (tank) and where did you connect the vent AT the tank? To put this differently does your tank have only one vent connection, or does it have several, "used to have" the vapor separator in the trunk?

It may be expanding and pushing some liquid out
 
Think I took care of the problem. Purchased the Tygon yellow fuel hose and also found a pinhole in the fuel filler neck where I had soldered it. I installed a Hagan flush mount fuel filler door, and the cap receiver has to be soldered to the original filler tube. I ran JB weld around the joint. So far no more fumes in the trunk.
 
What year is the car (tank) and where did you connect the vent AT the tank? To put this differently does your tank have only one vent connection, or does it have several, "used to have" the vapor separator in the trunk?

It may be expanding and pushing some liquid out
1974 and only one vent tube out of top of tank.
 
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