Fuel Sender Rebuild

Discussion in 'Fuel and Air Systems' started by Cuda Al, Oct 29, 2018.

  1. Cuda Al

    Cuda Al Well-Known Member

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    I have a new/reproduction sender in my car and it doesn't read correctly, it hits empty at half tank. I had been planning on adjusting the float to move empty to empty but I thought about looking into what could be done with the original.

    I had three to work with and none worked.

    The first one (cleanest) was looked at and the first thing I noticed was the phenolic board was slipping out so I removed it. I tested it with a meter and it was within the correct range.
    2018-10-27_001.jpg
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    All three units were put in vinegar over night and cleaned, I then looked to see what it would take to take them apart and find out why they didn't work.

    The first one I noticed the pointer was off axis and was loose on the shaft so it was put aside (stripped of all parts).
    2018-10-28_017.jpg

    The second unit was cleaned and examined and everything seamed fine, the insulator was still intact.
    2018-10-28_022.jpg
    The rest of the parts were cleaned up and sorted through.
    2018-10-28_023.jpg
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    The board fits into the main frame on on end and on the contact bar on the other, it appears that the pressure of the pointer holds in in place.
    2018-10-28_029.jpg
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    The board was then installed.
    2018-10-28_034.jpg

    I then took my meter and put it through the motions with mixed results, sometimes nothing, sometimes spotty. In checking I came to the conclusion that the board was originally riveted to the copper bar. The other bars and board were looked at and I felt I could solder them together.
     
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    • Cuda Al

      Cuda Al Well-Known Member

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      I first put solder on the back of the board and then the copper bar. while the bar was still hot I placed the board on and heated them till they pressed together. Once cooled off I did the wiggle test.
      2018-10-28_037.jpg
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      2018-10-28_040.jpg

      That assembly was put back in the frame and tested again, once again mixed results. I then noticed the the float arm had a little play in it causing the pointer to lift off the board. I bent the pointer so it would stay in contact with the board even with the play in the float arm.

      Once again everything was tested and this time it all works as it should, next up to put it on the car.
      2018-10-28_041.jpg
      2018-10-28_042.jpg

      There were multiple things that I saw that could have caused these not to work.
      1. Filthy
      2. The pointer not staying in contact with the board.
      3. The board getting disconnected from the bar.


      Alan
       
      Last edited: Oct 29, 2018
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      • 4spdragtop

        4spdragtop FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Nice work! Thanks for posting, some good info here.
         
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        • threewood

          threewood Well-Known Member

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          That's a pretty good write up, thanks for sharing! I only wish I kept my old sending unit :(
           
        • Arron tate

          Arron tate 1973 H code Duster

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          Hello All,
          Just wanted to say thanks for the outstanding DIY article.
          More technical "How to articles" speak volumes.
          Things like this really help the forum members understand, repair, maintain there cars.
          Thanks,
          Happy Mopar :)
          Arron
           
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