Fuel tank sending unit for 1966 Dart?

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coalman

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I need a new one, any recommendations for above? Should I change it to a 3/8' vs the 5/16''?
Thanks
 
All of the aftermarket sending units are garbage unless you need to go above 5/16" for some reason. Get an OEM sender on ebay or post a want ad here and restore it if needed. There's places you can mail it to for restoration such as here:
Fuel tank sending unit rebuild service

Usually all they need is a new float, which are cheap:
Amazon.com: Omix-Ada 17729.01 Fuel Tank Plastic Float: Automotive

-Aftermarket sending units are linear, so your gas gauge won't function like an original unless you get one of those Meter Match devices to make it work remotely correctly:
Solution to Fuel Gauge/Sender Problems

-Aftermarket sending units often will have an improperly adjusted pickup tube that won't get to the bottom of the tank. Hopefully you'll have the tank out of your car so you can inspect this and bend the pickup tube as needed. I had to bend mine a good 2-3" downwards it was so far off

-On aftermarket sending units you will also most likely need to tweak the float arm so it travels the full range of motion and/or helps the gauge read remotely correctly, especially when below 1/2 tank

Regardless of which sending unit you use be sure to check for leaks. Most of the aftermarket lock rings, even the ones that come with a new gas tank, don't fit snug and will allow a leak. Use your OEM lock ring if you have it. A member on here sells them. You can also try this:
Fuel tank sending unit leaked - fixed

I have 1 on order and I will inspect it side-by-side with my OEM lock ring when it arrives.
 
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All of the aftermarket sending units are garbage unless you need to go above 5/16" for some reason. Get an OEM sender on ebay or post a want ad here and restore it if needed. There's places you can mail it to for restoration such as here:
Fuel tank sending unit rebuild service

Usually all they need is a new float, which are cheap:
Amazon.com: Omix-Ada 17729.01 Fuel Tank Plastic Float: Automotive

-New sending units are linear, so your gas gauge won't function like an original unless you get one of those Meter Match devices to make it work remotely correctly:
Solution to Fuel Gauge/Sender Problems

-New sending units often will have an improperly adjusted pickup tube that won't get to the bottom of the tank. Hopefully you'll have the tank out of your car so you can inspect this and bend the pickup tube as needed. I had to bend mine a good 2-3" downwards it was so far off

-You will also most likely need to tweak the float arm so it travels the full range of motion and/or helps the gauge read remotely correctly, especially when below 1/2 tank

Regardless of which sending unit you use be sure to check for leaks. Most of the aftermarket lock rings, even the ones that come with a new gas tank, don't fit snug and will allow a leak. Use your OEM lock ring if you have it. A member on here sells them. You can also try this:
Fuel tank sending unit leaked - fixed

I have 1 on order and I will inspect it side-by-side with my OEM lock ring when it arrives.

On first sentence, are you saying the 3/8 units are better?? Thanks for all the info!
 
On first sentence, are you saying the 3/8 units are better?? Thanks for all the info!
If you're doing something like building a race car and need a larger sending unit, like a 3/8" or 1/2" one, then yes an aftermarket one would be better. Otherwise no, the OEM ones which are 5/16" are fine and don't have the numerous drawbacks I listed.
 
Unless you have a large V8, you're okay with the 5/16" line. That said, it costs just a little more for the 3/8" output. Most 3/8" senders have a 1/4" return line which needs to be plugged. There is one maker of a 3/8" sender that does not have a return connection. There was a recent post on this about a month ago.

Everyone says to use the original locking ring on the sender to prevent leaks, because it is thicker. Just FYI, the original locking ring thickness is NOT always thicker than the replacements.
 
All of the aftermarket sending units are garbage unless you need to go above 5/16" for some reason. Get an OEM sender on ebay or post a want ad here and restore it if needed. There's places you can mail it to for restoration such as here:
Fuel tank sending unit rebuild service

Usually all they need is a new float, which are cheap:
Amazon.com: Omix-Ada 17729.01 Fuel Tank Plastic Float: Automotive

-Aftermarket sending units are linear, so your gas gauge won't function like an original unless you get one of those Meter Match devices to make it work remotely correctly:
Solution to Fuel Gauge/Sender Problems

-Aftermarket sending units often will have an improperly adjusted pickup tube that won't get to the bottom of the tank. Hopefully you'll have the tank out of your car so you can inspect this and bend the pickup tube as needed. I had to bend mine a good 2-3" downwards it was so far off

-On aftermarket sending units you will also most likely need to tweak the float arm so it travels the full range of motion and/or helps the gauge read remotely correctly, especially when below 1/2 tank

Regardless of which sending unit you use be sure to check for leaks. Most of the aftermarket lock rings, even the ones that come with a new gas tank, don't fit snug and will allow a leak. Use your OEM lock ring if you have it. A member on here sells them. You can also try this:
Fuel tank sending unit leaked - fixed

I have 1 on order and I will inspect it side-by-side with my OEM lock ring when it arrives.

I am going to try the float first, when I fill the car it reads full then drops off to about an 1/8 of tank, and only takes 6 to 7 gallons to fill it. Thanks
 
I put a 3/8" one in my 66. Not really needed but it seems to help with fewer fuel vapor issues. (I might just be imagining that too. lol) Mine works but is inaccurate like every other one produced now days. Kiss (above) made many very valid points. Follow his instructions. I will bookmark his post!
 
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