1. FlDart360

    FlDart360 Well-Known Member

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    When installing a cork style oil pan gasket on a 360 LA stock pan. Which of the following is correct

    1. Install RTV only on the block side only enough to hold it in place from sliding

    2. Install RTV the full length of the oil pan rail only on the block side

    3. Install a thin amount on both sides of the gasket the full length of the pan rail

    4. Don’t use RTV use contact cement to hold it on the block side only

    5. None of the above
     
  2. rigger3006

    rigger3006 Well-Known Member

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    i did it lightly on both sides, worked for me, im sure others will chime in
     
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    • Wyrmrider

      Wyrmrider Well-Known Member

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      I only use as little rtv as possible, just at the ends
      I'd use hylomar on a cork gasket your #3
       
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      • nm9stheham

        nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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        Skim coat of RTV on both sides works for me. Never put in any more than a skim coat or it will act as a lube, and allow the gasket to slip and spread and perhaps split. Making sure the areas around the bolts are flattened with a small ball-peen hammer on a board is the most important thing, followed by not putting on more torque than evenly snugging them down. (Must be doing something OK: I can't recall a pan gasket leak ever. But I suck at rear rope seals LOL)
         
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        • Garry in AZ

          Garry in AZ Building a 9 second Valiant FABO Gold Member

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          With cork gaskets, you have to make sure the sealing surfaces are flat and sometimes use a ball peen hammer to ensure the bolt holes in the pan are flat and not pulled up toward the block. Get the surfaces flat and clean. Then apply a very thin bead of your favorite RTV sealant, gasket shellac, or my personal favorite is Permatex Aviation Sealant. Use any of the sealers very sparingly, you don't need much.
          DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the bolts. 80% of oil pan leaks can be traced to over-tightening.
           
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          • 4spdragtop

            4spdragtop Well-Known Member

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            Heres my thinking, oil pan rail on engine is a smooth machined surface. So in my mind shouldnt require "goop". Pan surface is not so smooth, so that is where I put the goop. A thin smear, lay gasket on, let it tack up a bit, then bolt pan on finger tight. Let sit over night with no fluids. Snug up next day.
            Make sure surface on oil pan is flat and smooth with no mount holes "pulled in". If they are flatten with a block of wood and hammer. How I do it, there are other ways.
             
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            • Wyrmrider

              Wyrmrider Well-Known Member

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              keep the silicone and rtv out of your motor (except at the corners of some gaskets, if you need it it will usually be in the gasket set with instructions
              there are many other better choices
              and do not clean surfaces with scotchbright
              other good tips above
               
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              • FlDart360

                FlDart360 Well-Known Member

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                Thanks... I think the first seven replies have cover the key points I need. Thanks again.If the weather is decent this weekend and i don't get called into work maybe i'll get this motor back in the car.
                 
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                • FlDart360

                  FlDart360 Well-Known Member

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                  After you mention checking the bolt area for flatness i checked my Pan,and yes it needs a little hammer time.
                   
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                  • FlDart360

                    FlDart360 Well-Known Member

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                    You would think if both surfaces were as smooth as a machined surface you wouldn't need goop at all.
                     
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                    • 4spdragtop

                      4spdragtop Well-Known Member

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                      I've never seen a pan as smooth as a machined block. You even said your pan needs hammer time?
                      Also, it's to help hold it in position. Try it without it. Like I said lots of ways to skin a cat.
                       
                      Last edited: Oct 30, 2019
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                      • AJ/FormS

                        AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s

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                        I try never to use raw cork.
                        But when I do;
                        Front chain-cover preinstalled,IndianHead (or weatherstrip glue in a pinch) on the Block. RTV in the corners, screw in studs or line-up pins on the second from the corners. Put it all together before it tacks up. Gently snug every second bolt, then the inbetweeners. Come back later and torque it.
                        Why Indianhead on the Block? Cuz it comes off easy with a razor-blade. You will only ever once put weatherstrip glue on the panrails; I try not to use it.
                         
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                        • Wyrmrider

                          Wyrmrider Well-Known Member

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                          WEatherstrip cement almost like hardening Permatex
                          OMG for the next time
                          Hylomar is reusable, check it out
                          Rolls Royce developed for both high and low temps and works with all fluids
                           
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                          • Mattax

                            Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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                            When both surfaces are machined smooth and sufficiantly rigid for the clamping screws, no gasket is needed. For example some exhaust manifold to the heads.

                            Gaskets are intended for use as the gasket. Indianhead (shellac), High Tack, etc are only there to help position and hold them in place during assembly.
                            RTV gasket makers should generally be used alone - or in corners when the regular gasket won't fill.
                             
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                            • FlDart360

                              FlDart360 Well-Known Member

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                              Here is a long overdue update. I hate it when a thread leaves you hanging after so many offer there help so I don’t want to be one of those guys. It took me about a month but the engine has finally returned to its rightful place. Yes some rookie mistakes were made, but nothing that couldn’t be undone. Just wanted to say thanks again for the help.
                               
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                              • MOPAROFFICIAL

                                MOPAROFFICIAL Well-Known Member

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                                Indian head, permatac, great stuff.
                                Both sides, sure, one side being the pan...sure. have I seen them leak in both..yes.the right way to it ...is way it doesn't leak in the end..lol Pick your method.

                                Black rtv/Indian head/permtac skim coat both sides and at corners if you do it.

                                No matter what....if you buzz it up to 6500 or better, frequently... it will seap through.
                                If you hit the x its because you're short 2 peas in ur pod and wear heels n skirts
                                 
                                Last edited: Dec 3, 2019
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                                • T56MaxTorq

                                  T56MaxTorq Well-Known Member

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                                  we use hylomar on our turboprop. It’s ok, very very tacky. Never hardens up and old shit cleans up nicely with solvent. I often find bits of it in our filters if too much was used. Won’t break down in oil. Very toxic. Had an airman many years ago smear his entire hand with it (it’s bright blue) and ran around yelling he fingered a smurf. Used toluene to take it all off. I told him he would have gotten the same comic effect if he just wore a tight blue nitrile glove. He was special.
                                   
                                  Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
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                                  • mopardude318

                                    mopardude318 Well-Known Member

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                                    My way has worked for me, but it may not be right.

                                    I like to use the Milodon Crushproof gaskets.

                                    Milodon Crushproof Premium Pan Gaskets 40650

                                    I then glue the gasket to the oil pan with this 3M super weatherstip adhesive.

                                    https://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M

                                    Once that is set up, (its sets up quick), I use the same stuff on the bock to glue the pan to the block. I haven't had a leak from the oil pan yet, but the shit sure is hard to remove. Last time I had to beat the oil pan off with a dead blow, after using a razor to slice through the mating surfaces. LOL

                                    Next time I think I will use HondaBond, it's grey, about 20 bucks a tube...good stuff, more forgiving.
                                     
                                  • Wyrmrider

                                    Wyrmrider Well-Known Member

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                                    That was was what I meant by OMG next time
                                    I'll check out Hondobond - but I still use Hylomar for the reasons stated
                                     
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