Discussion in 'Mopar Interiors' started by John Bond, Jun 12, 2018.
Can any tell me how to easily remove the gauge cluster and bezel from a 68 Barracuda. Thanks
It is not easy per say but can be. Disconnect the battery first before even thinking of it!!! Get a copy of the service manual and read it first and be ready for some contortion! If your dash paint is fresh then get some masking tape to help protect it. Loosening the steering column is a must. Read the manual then ask some more if you have not done it before!
Instructions from the service manual below
Is a pain in the ---
It's tight spaces to work with because it's an A-Body. Had mine in and out so many times, it's about a 15 minute process to remove. Hardest part IMO is the threaded bezels on the headlight and wiper switch, but there's a special socket that makes the removal and install easy. Unless, of course, you bust one (or more) of the pins off when removing the connectors from the circuit boards that are 50 years old.
Being young and able to pretzel yourself up under that dash is a basic need to get everything back to where it belongs when reinstalling . I find it easier to just pull the windshield yank the complete dash and do it like when then did it at the factory. When I was younger I did it in the car but those days are over over for me. 68's are the worse with that lower dash pad, the roll dial radio in an A/C car with a console is really tight quarters. But where there is a will there is a way. I believe a weeks worth of Yoga is recommended in the shop manual.
I would also recommend trips to the chiropractor afterwards (for those of us in the 50+ club). "Easily remove" is a relative term when it comes to this part of the car. And you are correct, A/C and consoles can make it exponentially more difficult. Even the 4 speed shifter without a console can be a nuisance.
Easily?? A grenade. I need to pull mine, and from the last 3 or 4 times I've done it, easy ain't in the vocabulary. Pigfucker is in the vocabulary, pardon my French. I'm dreading the Cirque du Soleil contortion act that is required, which is why I haven't done it in the past year, even though I need to.
I have thought about a sledge hammer, but if I could do one a 66 300, this might be doable
Hmm? how did we ever do anything before the internet? We just dove in. Long ago I pulled mine to replace the speedometer, disconnect the battery, pull all the screws, tug? reach up unplug harness and speedometer cable, tug, pull enough to get to amp gauge, disconnect wires, tug, reach in and unbolt heater controls, tug, shimmy, done! Thinking back, lowering the column a 1/2 would have made it real easy to get out. Even not having a clue I doubt it took me more the 30 minutes. Alan
Have done a lot of these. To condense previous advise- disconnect battery, disconnect speedo cable from cluster, drop column not loosen- three nuts on column bracket and three bolts on firewall plate. Remove attaching screws and cig lighter. Roll out the cluster from the top and disconnect wiring, continue to remove. You can lay a rag on the bottom pad if you need to protect it. Yes things are tight because of the bottom pad, work slowly.
I ripped my whole car apart and removed the whole dash as a complete assembly. It was easy to work it on the bench after total disassembly. Thought it was all good when I put it back in as a completed assembly after resto. I screwed up and thought all was good. Even after bench testing. Had to remove the cluster afterwards and modernize the gauges in year 2 as I was not happy with the gauges. It was a PITA for sure and do not wish that on anyone. Do it right once and rejoice.
Amen to that. First time pulling an A body Rally dash, I kept thinking, "Now what's holding it in?" I laughed outloud when he asked for an 'easy' way. I could probably have mine out in about an hour, and that includes taking out the driver's bucket seat. It is SO much easier to get under the dash that way. Also, I COMPLETELY agree with disconnecting the battery.
leave the drivers door open. No worries with a short. The battery will be dead by the time you get to the amp gauge wires .
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