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I would say no. I'm running 2.25" valves in a 4.320 bore.
Good question. I am interested in using the stealth heads from 440Source and from the specs I should be alright. It has a 2.14 and some work will be done to the heads as well. i understand the principle of valve shrouding but I am no expert. Unless one is going all out race is it that important?
Your gonna be .030" under a stock 440, highly doubt that will be a factor. 383 has larger bores compared to most brand X engines there only slightly smaller then 400/440 If your building a 600 plus hp engine and every hp counted I'd start to worry about it.
I started to paint the ole intake the other night and finished her up this morning. Not much color change itself,but the paint really added a refresher and brought out the contours of the body. I used Engine paint from Dupli-Color Enamel with Ceramic. DE 1615 Aluminum
So after months of wait my Christmas came late. Well not too late. The rest of the rotating assembly came in right before New Years. I felt like a little kid haha.
My Lil jewels:
Around the time my rotating assembly and other parts were coming in, my loving girlfriend bought me a new windage tray and 7quart pan for Christmas even though I was planning to go junk yard digging. I love seeing a box full of parts on the porch. I'm truly greatful.
So with all the parts coming in I am ready to get this project moving so I can move to other things such as transmission etc. Except for one big problem. I cannot decide/figure out which camshaft to get. I want a kit -as I want the cost to be down- that includes camshaft and lifters. I don't mind other names than Comp. In fact I plan on calling Bullet Racing on Monday. However, I don't feel like waiting on a custom grind. Any suggestions?
Subscribed. Thanks for the thread and great pics. Excited to see it come together. I am not an authority by far but Schneider Cams might worth a call
Thanks. I have heard of them but not much. Will give them a call Monday as well. I would really like to get all of these pieces in order and finish the build. I'm a patient guy I just always wanted to do a build and now I'm able to.
A little more on my goals: I would like to have an 11 second car with good street ability. One that will be taken to the track at least once a month and driven to work every other day or at least when it's date night. I told myself I was on a budget -which I am- but I didn't mind spending good money on the rotating assembly. I know good rings and rods are a must if I was to ever go crazier with a build in the future. Pump gas (med or premium grade), a 750 Street Demon carb on top of a TM6 intake, plans for a 833 transmission are some parameters to think about when finding a camshaft for this engine.
WOW that's not a budget build.. stock rods, and Hypers are a budget build.. ask me how I know.. Honestly I'd get a better intake... are you planning on going roller cam?
Lol. Once I got to ordering parts I quickly realized this was going to be a bigger expense than I thought. I want to use the intake that I have as I don't want to spend the money on another. Hydraulic flat tappet or a hydraulic roller are my choices. I'm still doing research as to which one I should get, specs, etc.
Hyd flat tappet is cheaper by far over a hyd roller cam setup with nice rockers Hyd flat - cam/lifters ($250) (Comp Cams) reuse oil pump drive (free) reuse stock pushrods (free) reuse stock rockers (free) roller rockers $425 at the cheapest (PRW) custom pushrods $120 -150 = $825 Hyd roller - Roller cam $400 for off the shelf (Hughes) Roller lifters $450 for good one's (Hughes/ Comp Cams) $70 for oil pump drive reuse stock pushrods (free) reuse stock rockers (free) Roller rockers $425 at the cheapest (PRW) custom pushrods $150 = $1,495 $1,495 - $825 = $670 cost difference.. price could go up or down depending on the parts used.. Type of oil plays a roll as well with hyd flat tappet.. gotta use expensive oils or risk cam lobe failure I was there too with the intake.. I made the decision and sold the torker 383 I had for $100, and bought a Performer RPM - considered selling the torker 383 for $100 a $100 discount on the Performer.. ($280 - $100 = $180 for a better intake) Just something to think about - there are better intakes out there for sure..
@zac_F71 I'm leaning towardso the hyd flat as it will be indeed less $$$ and I can get the results that I am looking for. I am going to call several companies tomorrow to figure price quotes and recommendations. If I ever come across a better intake in the future for a good price I will definitely grab one. Pushrods and rockers will have to be bought as well. Tomorrow my wallet will be burning. Happy Super Bowl Sunday everyone.
Why are you wanting a hydraulic cam?
I would prefer a hydraulic over a mechanical on this particular build because of a few reasons. First is overall cost and maintenance of the cam and parts. Mechanical flat tappets and rollers tend to be a lot higher in cost. Also, hydraulic cams are more plug in play if you will meaning that I don't want to always be adjusting valves or other components when I just want to mostly cruise or take trips with this particular engine. I do like the higher rpm ranges in the mechanicals; however, as i only intend to race once or twice a month i wouldn't mind the trade off. I'm looking for some type of fuel mileage haha.
So last night I made a small parts order. Main ARP bolts, timing chain cover and fuel pump block off plate as I plan on installing an electric fuel system. I was going to use the original bolts but I really don't want to risk a mechanical failure. I would faint.
True, mechanical cams cost more. In a flat tappet we're talking an average of 50$. I adjust my cam once per year. It maybe takes me 30min. There is no "noise" I just hate to see someone go hydraulic based on false pretenses.
I used the original fuel pump bolts on my mechanical fuel pump, work just fine.. but if you're going electric, you can't use the stock bolts for the block off plate anyway.. they're to long I would think?
The block didn't come with a fuel pump or bolts for one so I ordered them with the block off plate. These are shorter than the stock bolts for the mechanical fuel pump. I will post an exact measurement once they come in. It seems there was some miscommunication with myself and the machinist (more so my fault) and he has already lined honed the block using the stock main bolts. I ordered ARP main bolts last night just to be safe. These will be returned. i will do better with the communication. ops: Speaking of communication, i contacted Comp Cams via web and i am awaiting a response from them with recommendations. From the advice of the forums here and what I have found, I like the SK21-224-4 kit which includes cam, lifters, and timing set. My machinist is getting in contact with Bullet.
I see on the bolts - they're probably just 3/8-16x1" bolts.. I did the same with the main bolts! LOL I have a Comp hyd flat tappet 231* @.050" .480" 110*lsa in my 383, and added 1.6 Crane rockers (bumps the lift up to .512"). Wanted mild so it is easier to drive..
I stopped by the shop today on my lunch break to chck on the block status. The block has been line honed using stock bolts and main caps so I won't need the ARP bolts (in case anyone wants to buy them...). Everything looks good and parts are steadily coming in. Another item that I have to grab unfortunately is an oil pump as the original is locked up. Will get one soon. Here's a quick pic for the sake of things. I'm almost done looking for a camshaft too.
I was told the stock main bolts will handle 500hp or so.. ARP's handle like 700hp