Gluing Quarter Panels On vs. Welding

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rklein383

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I spoke to a couple of paint guys and they suggested gluing on my quarters instead of welding. They say all the new cars use glue, has a 2800 pound strength, seals the edges, and is way easier than welding.

I am doing a driver 71 Barracuda and don't really care that much if it isn't put together exactly as the factory did it.

Anybody have knowledge of using panel adhesive and would you recommend it?

thanks,
Rod
 
some good stuff. if you are attaching the panel in a non -factory location then this stuff will because it wont warp like welding might across a large area.
 

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I tried it, the problem is, the bottom section of these cars isn't perfect, rockers, wheelhouses, trunk drop-offs, cowls, etc. And if the adhesive doesn't have a real tight fit, it will let loose; I tried panel adhesive, but it didn't work for me, as far as being easier; it's six of one way half a dozen of the other. I hate that dreaded 'POP' from giving out.
 
so far I have only used it on the newer cars which have a thinner gauge metal. So I am not 100% sold on it for the older stuff with the 20 or 18 gauge steel panels.

As mentioned ....if you don't get a tight fit on anything, it will lead to problems

just things to consider
 
Both quarter panel patches on my duster have been glued on. I used 3m lord fuser, coming up on 3 years with absolutely no issues. I would use it again in a heart beat (because I'm not very practiced with welding yet). I used a 3m pneumatic mixing gun as well.

Prob would be considered backwoods engineering but I used used big wood clamps and self tapping screws to keep the bond tight.
 
I am doing full quarters so I won't be doing much butt welding as most of the weld points are spot welds, which are easier.
 
I have seen it come loose. Only place I use it is on the wheel arch. Weld rockers and trunk extensions front and rear, and window pinchwelds. I don't know of any manufacture that relies on bonding. They use a weld bond procedure and there will be spot welds through the adhesive area. I have repaired quite a few collision damaged cars where quarters have been glued on. They can come loose under urethane set glass. Cars flex and the glue doesn't. These cars also took more substantial frame damage because they just collapsed when the qtr. blew loose. ASE, I-car , and OEM repair procedures don't recommend adhesives nor do ins CO's accept it as an acceptable repair procedure. Unitized construction, the qtr. IS considered structural. Just saying. Use at your own risk.
 
A lot of the newer stuff is glued together. I never thought I would ever get behind it, but I must admit, there are some wicked adhesives on the market these days.
 
A lot of the newer stuff is glued together. I never thought I would ever get behind it, but I must admit, there are some wicked adhesives on the market these days.

Times 2, sure beats welding & warpage. Seen it done,haven't tried it yet. Looks intriguing.
 
A lot of the newer stuff is glued together. I never thought I would ever get behind it, but I must admit, there are some wicked adhesives on the market these days.

Examples of this new stuff if I may?
I haven't come across any that have relied solely on glue as what is shown in the diagrams above. Every car I have come across has had other attachment methods involved whether it be spot welds placed throughout or aluminum panels bonded and rivited onto a steel frame. I used quite a bit of it 3m, Fusor, Kent, Duramix, and Sem, all about the same stuff. I have used it to do patch panels as well, and watched the seams raise up over time. It's fast, and less finish work, and why a lot of people like it, but I have moved away from it for the reasons I have posted. I would never glue a roof on as diagrammed lest it sheer off in a rollover. When they pop loose it's usually a large part of the panel. I prefer the 2-component urethane based adhesives that the OEM'S actually do use but it's hard to get them to sell it across a counter. Years of body shop and different training programs have drilled into me to err on the safety and structural integrity/liability side. Biggest uses of adhesives on new stuff is door skins and smc panels and parts when bonding to steel structure. Will it fail every time, no, but it can fail. I know I'm being redundant, and I'm not picking. Just putting some info out so people can make an informed decision as to if and how they would use it. I have seen enough comebacks of my own and others to get past the "it's better than sliced bread " appeal. The stuff says right on it not for structural use.
 
I talked to my body guy about the very same thing. He has a medium sized shop and lots of certifications for himself and the entire staff. He suggested to still put some small welds along the length of the panel. He has been in the biz for 30 years.
 
Lots of spot welds along with the bond adhesive does sound like the best plan.
 
I decided to use adhesive for a cowl repair.
That will be my first, and probably only use of adhesive.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=310398&highlight=fusor

I contacted the Mfg. for suggestions since this is a non-standard repair.
In other words it's not something for which there are any manufacturer's guidelines.
My concern was that although they are weld thorough, I don't have a spot welder. I only have MIG and TIG.
I figured they don't build cars, but they know the heat characteristics of their products.
They were nice enough to give me suggestions for this repair only and for the specific antique car that I am doing only.
(That's understandable from a legal standpoint)


They said:
1. I was correct in my assumption that spot welding would require a very expensive machine.
2.I could MIG plug weld if I kept one inch away from the adhesive.
(I won't be able to do that with the narrow flange on the cowl.)
3. Using just the adhesive would be fine.

In answer to your specific question, I would not just glue a quarter on an A body.
I had read that the hobby level spot welders were questionable with weld through adhesives.
So the reply I got tends to confirm that.

If you don't have a welder or don't want to do that there is something call rivet bonding.
Same thing, only different. May or may not be what you want.
I'm sure you know that the C pillar and A pillar are flex points.
Lead worked good there. So does solid welding.

By the way, but from what I can find out there is a difference between MIG and TIG.
MIG can change the metal structure in such a way that it weakens the surrounding metal and may not be the ideal choice for structural repairs. But it is what it is.
Your research/opinions may vary.
Perhaps some certified or certifiable welders can light that one up.
 
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