I don't disagree with you. But not everyone has that ot throw around on a simple street build.$500 would would get timing swept and carb jetted (holley) on my dyno. Sounds like I'm too cheap.
I don't disagree with you. But not everyone has that ot throw around on a simple street build.$500 would would get timing swept and carb jetted (holley) on my dyno. Sounds like I'm too cheap.
I've seen a big block Chevy with almost ten degrees retarded cam timing with the sprockets "dot to dot". It happens all the time. SOMETIMES you get lucky and it's right. Not often.how can it be installed retarded when the dots are perfectly alligned, that should be perfectly centered, one way or the other would be advance/retard
Time to go back to engine building school.how can it be installed retarded when the dots are perfectly alligned, that should be perfectly centered, one way or the other would be advance/retard
He might save some money and learn something about tuning in the process. If and it's a mighty big if, all that is wrong with it is wrong timing or wrong jet or something else that may be discovered on the dyno it would still be cheaper than re-camming a motor that doesn't need re-cammed. Happens at my dyno more than you would think.I don't disagree with you. But not everyone has that ot throw around on a simple street build.
If he learns how to tune, he wouldn't need all that.......but I completely agree with you.He might save some money and learn something about tuning in the process. If and it's a mighty big if, all that is wrong with it is wrong timing or wrong jet or something else that may be discovered on the dyno it would still be cheaper than re-camming a motor that doesn't need re-cammed. Happens at my dyno more than you would think.
Rarely, if ever does a cam align to the recommended lobe installed centerline: Especially after it has been reground to a tighter lsa!This is the whole point and reason for degreeing camshafts. Because there is zero guarantee that the timing sets and the camshafts are made so that when everything is assembled, the camshaft is in the right place. Since we are measuring in DEGREES, that means a very small difference can add up to a large tolerance stack. If the cam sprocket is off one degree, that's two degrees at the crank. If the crank sprocket is off by another degree, there's one more. That's not even counting on Chrysler having machined the crank keyway in the exact right place, OR of the cam company machined the cam just right. This is why it is absolutely imperative that you degree the camshaft. But no matter how much we preach it, there are always some who will always refuse to listen and will never get it.
That goes for cam timing too.lesson learned if someone else touches your car, double check EVERYTHING
the problem is, i would have been 1000X more likely to screw it up messing with a degree wheel when i have no clue what im even supposed to be looking at/for.That goes for cam timing too.
the problem is, i would have been 1000X more likely to screw it up messing with a degree wheel when i have no clue what im even supposed to be looking at/for.
I know it can be frustrating for guys who have been doing this for years and really know their **** to see a dumb noob like me struggle with stuff that seems simple, but im basically learning everything by myself as i go. I've never installed a cam before or even assembled my own motor. Ive done all the generic stuff like suspension work, brakes, wring, bodywork/paint ext but ive never tried to build a motor before and I don't have anyone around here who knows this stuff so a lot of it is what i see on youtube or the help i get in threads like this.
Appreciate all the tips though, i didn't know you even had to degree a cam unless your goal was to advance or retard it a specific amount trying to squeeze every last pony out. Now i do.
I'm an idiot in a street car. I wanna be loud and slow. My headers are just for show. I know I'm building a stupid carAny d*ick head can instal a wild sounding cam that turns out to be a gutless turd. It takes smarter people to instal a stock sounding cam that blows away the competition....
I'm an idiot in a street car. I wanna be loud and slow. My headers are just for show. I know I'm building a stupid car

Everybody here started as a 'noob', everybody. The difference is, some listened and learned what was required. To degree a cam is a relatively simple process. Research, read, watch some YouTube, etc., to gain a basic understanding of what you're doing. Then go out to the garage and do it. Double and triple check it. Pull it all apart and redo it. It isn't rocket science. Even better, make friends with someone nearby that has some experience doing this and invite them over for pizza and your favorite beverage when you're done. Surely there is a local Mopar club with folks who would be willing to help a struggling 'noob'?
Hey if you know what your about!I'm an idiot in a street car. I wanna be loud and slow. My headers are just for show. I know I'm building a stupid car

now you know that degreeing a cam is an important part of engine building, so you've got that going for you. so now you can buy the degreeing kit from summit and learn to use it knowing how important that aspect actually is!the problem is, i would have been 1000X more likely to screw it up messing with a degree wheel when i have no clue what im even supposed to be looking at/for.
I know it can be frustrating for guys who have been doing this for years and really know their **** to see a dumb noob like me struggle with stuff that seems simple, but im basically learning everything by myself as i go. I've never installed a cam before or even assembled my own motor. Ive done all the generic stuff like suspension work, brakes, wring, bodywork/paint ext but ive never tried to build a motor before and I don't have anyone around here who knows this stuff so a lot of it is what i see on youtube or the help i get in threads like this.
Appreciate all the tips though, i didn't know you even had to degree a cam unless your goal was to advance or retard it a specific amount trying to squeeze every last pony out. Now i do.
it’s great that you’re willing to learn and have a good attitude about it. The phrase, i don’t know what I don’t know applies to all of us at one point. Degreeing a camshaft is just parking the centerline of the intake lobe in the right spot relative to where the piston is. The cam manufacturer will tell you where they want it. I think only a handful of cams I’ve put in (I’ve done lots) have been spot on when installed dot to dot. It’s ALWAYS good to check em.
no, just lined up the dots.
Lots of good advise given for degreeing your cam. I had a 440 built by someone I got my car from and it was a real dog off the line. Am positive it was the lack of proper degreeing. I ended up going with a different engine but the same cam. This time I had a machine shop degree the cam with the same (new) timing set. The machinist said he had to measure it twice because it was so far off. It was 6* retarded! Yep, it does matter!how can it be installed retarded when the dots are perfectly alligned, that should be perfectly centered, one way or the other would be advance/retard

I’m glad you’re at least “more” happy with it than you originally started to be. I’ll say this though, picking a camshaft for sound almost always gives up performance. All the LS guys now a days want chop. Any time I put an engine together for someone I ask them, “do you want it to sound fast? Or do you want it to BE fast?” And engine can sound like a funny car and be a complete turd on the street with the wrong combination of camshaft, compression, gears, and converter.