GREAT NEWS....and bad news...

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Shane said:
well in the rain with no hood and roof I took out my newly installed 340, in my 68 barracuda..(i couldnt help myself)
IT WAS FANTASTIC, as it was the first time i have driven a 340... But the shitty started right before I pulled in my garage....i was concerned about this and clearly for a good reason as it turned into a problem..

the car made a noise and died out...white smoke came out of the hood...i have a brand new year one wiring harness and the main red power wire line that goes into the firewall's fuse BLEW....

The reason I was concerned about this was that a local alternator shop re-did my alternator to 70-75 amps.....

what, from all your guys experience is the best way to solve this issue so I can run the car with no problems?

I would like to keep the factory amp meter, but if it has to go, it has to go...would replacing the line fuse with a larger line fuse take care of the problem???

Thanks again

Shane
Click to expand...

i put in a painless wire harness in my 68 dart, went for a cruise and blew not just the 60 amp fuse but my battery, alternator, voltage regulator and my electronic ignition box. oh, and most of the cars light bulbs blew as well.

i was running the higher amperage alternator for A/C equipped cars.

problem was solved by adding the second field wire I had not previously needed.
 
i put in a painless wire harness in my 68 dart, went for a cruise and blew not just the 60 amp fuse but my battery, alternator, voltage regulator and my electronic ignition box. oh, and most of the cars light bulbs blew as well.

i was running the higher amperage alternator for A/C equipped cars.

problem was solved by adding the second field wire I had not previously needed.

I like the sound of that hopefully fixing my problem... by second field wire, is that what I have read on here of adding a third prong on the alternator and connecting it to the other prong on the alternator?
 
depends what alternator you have, and what regulator you have thats why i asked,,to up grade to the 1970 and newer charging system is very easy,,,
 
dgc333 said:
A quick word about grounds. If you have bad grounds all kinds of gremlins will rear their ugly heads. You should have a solid 8 gauge or larger ground wire from the engine block to the firewall. I also have another ground wire from the (-) of the battery to the radiator core support. I also use toothed lock washers under the fasteners that attach the grounds to ensure I have bite into the base metal.
Click to expand...

Your right about the grounds. I installed a Cold Air Intake on my truck and drove it for awhile then the "LIGHT OUT" started coming on in the dash. And it would go off and come back on with a "beeeep" that drove me to edge of insane. Checked all bulbs and they was fine. Finally took it to the Dodge dealership and they couldn't find anything wrong and the light was off at the time. The guy told me "You'll have to bring it in when the light is on so we can find out where it is coming from". So at last oneday the light came on and I went straight to the dealership and didn't cut the truck off and told the same fellow to come out and look. So they took it in the back and some how found out that the one of the grounds that had to come loose when I installed the CAI was not properly grounded. They installed a new toothed lock washer and it fixed it. Strange stuff!
 
Also, If you haven't bypassed the amp meter yet then that should be on your priority list. Mine went up in smoke after driving it for a year. I think they get hot and just start a thermal breakdown over time until POOF!! I know some will say it shouldn't short everything but, Just do a search and see how many threads there are with people having the same problem. I'ts alot safer running a voltage style meter versus the amp meter.
 
You recently remanned the engine ,therefore it came out and went back in,yes?

Look for a pinched wire. You may have crushed one getting that motor in and out.
 
I thank you all for your suggestions.. It seemed from the way I was blowing the fuseable link, that the short was coming from under the dash..I spent the whole neck wrenching day under the dash, and of course the last thing I looked at, it appears I found my problem...

The wires that come down off the steering colum, for the signales, etc... had two pinched and melted together. I fixed them and the car seems to run fine now!

Except for my power roof wasnt working, I may have blown the motor when the car shorted out...I will investigate that tonight after work...

Thanks again...

Shane
 
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