Great Timing Cover "Pains"

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dibbons

dibbons

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What's the best/easiest why to pull the harmonic balancer in order to replace a leaky timing cover (coolant leak around water pump bolt from cavitation wearing out the aluminum)? All the drive train components (904 torqueflite, starter, drive shaft, motor) are installed and ready to go (darn it)! How am I to break loose that crank bolt? Rent/borrow/steal an impact wrench maybe?

The 318 was rebuilt ten years ago and only has about 2,000 mile on it. I guess as an "economy" move, I must have re-used the old timing cover. I won't be doing that again any time soon.

After the recent restoration ('65 Formula S) I replaced the drive train and found a fairly major leak as soon as I began re-filling the radiator. I had used sealer on the bolt threads so at first it was a mystery. After applying sealant a second time, still leaked. "Alumaseal" stop-leak came to the rescue after about a ten-minute warm-up but only lasted a few days which got me to thinking: "this leak is too profuse to be squirting around some bolt threads".

So I brought out an older 340 timing cover in storage only to find the area around the same suspect area was completely worn away (see photo #1 where the screwdriver tip is pointing). I concluded my installed timing cover must be in similar shape (see photo #2). I pulled the water pump and verified my suspicions. I could see the paper gasket in that spot was not being compressed at all, providing a free channel for the coolant to make its escape (see photo #3). At least now I can see some light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks for any and all help in this matter!

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Impact Gun will make quick work of it...
Failing that. The Hillbillies will put a Breaker-Bar on the Nut and Crank the Starter for a Second.
It'll either Do a Wheelie or Pop the Bolt loose.
 
I've seen worse looking covers that didn't leak. Early covers in good shape are getting fairly hard to find. But, to answer your first question, if you don't have access to an impact gun, try using a breaker bar and a big hammer. If that doesn't work, they make flywheel locks that attach to the ring gear and hold the crank from turning. Not sure which trans you have and if one of those locks is available where you are. I'd probably just break down and get an impact gun. They have all sorts of uses. I assume you have a puller for the balancer once the bolt is removed, right? Use a three jawed one, not a 2 jaw, and one that bolts to the center hub, not the other ring.
 
Agree with the breaker bar and a BFH. Just keep everything square, lined up and socket all the way on the bolt when you whack it sharply so it doesn’t slip off only to smash your hand, the frame, or bash the radiator. You could make a piston stop out of a grade 8 (maybe 5?) bolt if you can find one, round the edges of it a little and rotate the engine backwards till a piston contacts it and gently bear down on the breaker bar.
 
I know here in the states, Harbor Freight has an inexpensive 1/2" drive electric impact gun.
Or
Not sure if you have any of those Hiway help trucks that change flat tires, but they're ready to go with compressor and impact, for quick tire changes.
 
I usally remove a spark plug and install a rope in the cylinder, bring the piston up. Then I use a breaker bar to loosen the bolt. Like everyone says an impact gun does it quickly.
 
I have put a pair of vise grips on the flex plate and a breaker bar. Did it that way when torquing the balancer bolt on my brother's Buick nailhead to 250 ft lbs, no problems.
 
Make sure you use a 6 point socket on that balancer bolt and harbor freight has a cordless 1/2 earth quake impact wrench for $230 or so, one of the best tools I have ever bought/owned. You’ll swear your crazy that you haven’t bought one sooner. Mine is going on 4 yrs old and it is a champ.
 
IIRC that gasket can be installed backwards, the bolts sorta fit, but the dang thing doesn't cover the sealing surface adequately and leaks. The bolts in those tunnels need to have a thread sealer on them, as some of them go into the water jackets. I think it's the upper ones. But there are three or four different length bolts and if you don't install them in the right locations, it is possible to drive a too-long bolt into the side of a cylinder and crack the cylinder, and now water runs into the pan. The location that I'm thinking of is the #1 cylinder, on the driver's side, I think the top one, but not sure.

BTW
the rope in the cylinder trick has worked for me, together with a sharp rap of a BFH on the breaker bar. But if you do this, make sure whatever cylinder you use, that it is coming up on compression so that the valves are both closed.
The starter method works better.
 
1) Disable the ignition.

2) Put the appropriate size socket on a long 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar.

3) Put ratchet or breaker bar on the bolt and position the breaker bar about 6" away from striking the K frame on the passenger's side, making sure nothing is between the bar and the K frame.

4) Bump the starter.

5) Remove the crankshaft bolt.
 
This morning my neighbor (Carlos) across the street pulled his Ford Ranger out front with an industrial compressor mounted on the bed. Employed him to zip off the crankshaft bolt. He must have spent a good 15 minutes looking around in his large metal tool box for an appropriate socket. Then 15 seconds to do the job.

I asked how much did I owe him? He said whatever you want to give. Handed him a $200 peso bill (about 10 USA dollars). I guess we both parted satisfied. Now to watch a little NFL football for the rest of the day.

Before Carlos pulled out, he asked if he could help himself to some tiny ornamental oranges from the tree beside his pickup truck (I have no use for them). I said sure, so he gathered up about half a dozen (not much larger than a cherry). I asked if he was going to make some tea or punch, but no, he said he eats 'em. Must have been a hungry Jack.

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