hacking a coffee pot

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pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
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OK, bought an expensive Capresso 465 coffeeTEAM TS coffee maker with grinder built in and have a question. No, of course I didnt pay full $199 price for it, I actually got it for $5 at a thrift store but it didnt have the $60 thermal stainless coffee pot. This model is the step up (or down?) from the 464 GS model that has a more standard (Mr Coffee pot fits perfectly) glass pot AND a 2hr warming circuit. The TS model thermal pot cant take a warming cycle so I think they disabled it on the circuit board but I believe all the warming parts are still there as it would be costly to alter the assembly line for another model or use a different heating element. So my question is: can I supply 110V mains voltage to my 1000W heating element through this mystery low temp 154F/30C thermo switch thats on the side of the heating element and have it automatically cycle on and off (resets) to warm hot plate? It cuts open at 154F and is self resetting, perfect temp for heating plate, but does it cut back in when the temp goes under? (IIRC this one would) It cant be the limiter of the brew cycle as that one is rated Normally closed, "opens at 221 degrees F (105 degrees C) " from another model to promote steam production and percolation up into the coffee filter area. This one does in fact have a brew cycle that stops when it runs out of water (how does it know?) but I think its not thermostat related as I only see one stat in there and its a 154F, too low for percolation. The wiring goes from black (-) wire through C shaped heater then then to white wire, but it also goes through those 2 fuses to 154F thermostat on a blue wire. Thats where I think I could supply 110V to manually heat the plate to 154F. perhaps the white wire is full temp no stat and blue wire is warm temp though the stat. The bigger plate in my hand was the 465 hot plate heat shield that provided a 2mm gap between heater and pot base, for my non heated model. On the PCB those blue and white wires go to terminals marked warm1 and warm2 which leads me to believe the PCB is the same one for the heated model, maybe just lacking the 2 hour warmer timer. I would install a single throw lit switch for the hot plate function on side as it has a soft off PCB while its off to provide 24hr clock power. So maybe a 10A rated toggle switch?

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Go for it.
Be sure to run an errand when your test it the first time.
Make it about 30 minutes or so.
Plenty of time for the kitchen to be fully engulfed.:D


Get the thermal carafe.
Coffee tastes much better after two hours in it than it does after 2 hours of simmering in the pot.
 
Don't risk it. That's why they have Tim Hortons coffee shops. Lol
 
C'mon guys..I got my safety gloves...and a class C fire extinguisher! Well see. D
 
I would use a timer.
 
All good ideas. HAS to be 6" tall or it wont fit under lip and if its shorter, it wont trip the drip plunger. F it. As I see it, I can't just power the warmer without backfeeding the entire pot to brew mode without isolating the circuit. Ill just brew a 4 cup mug and drink it. Next project, cracking an Ipad my sister gave me.....
 
What the heck, it's ok to tinker, as long as you have a good idea on what's going on, and you can afford it.
 
I could probably do it with a double pole double throw switch where a common switch would turn one circuit off and turn one on simultaneously and totally isolate the heater from the rest but its a moot point if I dont plan on keeping a full pot hot. I usually just brew 4 cups (1 mug) for myself and just drink it. Im not usually working with AC so its sort of a head scratcher when your dealing with this type of circuit.
 
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