Handling mods

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I don't think anyone makes metal sway bar bushings, but I could be wrong. Polyurethane/ Polygraphite bushings or other stiff material is the best way to go I believe. Sway bars do need to move/flex a little. I also think metal bushings for the sway bars would be very noisy. Drag links or center links connect the pitman & idler arms to the tie rods & have no bushings, but I've seen center links made out of very light & very strong material to save weight for drag cars. The only bushing there may be, is at the point where the idler arm attaches to the "K" frame of the car, depending on what you have. Not all cars have the bushings between the idler arm & "K" frame. As far as Panhard bars go, I don't think ANY old Mopars have them & I think they are used mainly in coil spring & independent rear suspensions. I also believe they help locate the rear axle on these cars. But the stiffer you make the moving suspension pieces, I.E., control arm bushings, sway bar bushings etc, the better your car will handle. Fender bracing, chassis stiffening (frame rail connectors etc.) will improve any flexing on the car & that equals better handling. Just remember to put the full weight of the car on the wheels before tightening any suspension components so they don't bind up. Hope this helps somewhat.
 
I don't think anyone makes metal sway bar bushings, but I could be wrong. Polyurethane/ Polygraphite bushings or other stiff material is the best way to go I believe. Sway bars do need to move/flex a little. I also think metal bushings for the sway bars would be very noisy. Drag links or center links connect the pitman & idler arms to the tie rods & have no bushings, but I've seen center links made out of very light & very strong material to save weight for drag cars. The only bushing there may be, is at the point where the idler arm attaches to the "K" frame of the car, depending on what you have. Not all cars have the bushings between the idler arm & "K" frame. As far as Panhard bars go, I don't think ANY old Mopars have them & I think they are used mainly in coil spring & independent rear suspensions. I also believe they help locate the rear axle on these cars. But the stiffer you make the moving suspension pieces, I.E., control arm bushings, sway bar bushings etc, the better your car will handle. Fender bracing, chassis stiffening (frame rail connectors etc.) will improve any flexing on the car & that equals better handling. Just remember to put the full weight of the car on the wheels before tightening any suspension components so they don't bind up. Hope this helps somewhat.
 
Panhard bars control the side to side movement of an axle. In a leaf spring car, that job is pretty much covered by the springs, though a Panhard could be added. Usually connected from one frame rail to the opposite side on the axle. Remember it will want to travel in an arc since one side is "fixed" (theoretically). The longer the bar, the less radical the arc, also, the closer to level, the better. Panhard rod - Wikipedia
A Watts-Link can do a more accurate job by keeping the axle perfectly centered because of no arc, but is more complex. Watt's linkage - Wikipedia
In a Three-Link, or a straight Four-Link car it is needed because the coil springs can't perform that job.
In a Triangulated Four-Link, the upper links are angled in toward the center of the vehicle, preventing side-side movement.
 
Chryslers with the short, stiff front section on the leaf spring don't need a Panhard bar like brand x stuff with symmetrical leaf springs. As for sway bar end links, poly is good, but you can also use Heim joints. Some modern cars also use a ball joint type link. I've got a couple out in my pile of parts that may get used on something.
 
Chryslers with the short, stiff front section on the leaf spring don't need a Panhard bar like brand x stuff with symmetrical leaf springs. As for sway bar end links, poly is good, but you can also use Heim joints. Some modern cars also use a ball joint type link. I've got a couple out in my pile of parts that may get used on something.
 
Chryslers with the short, stiff front section on the leaf spring don't need a Panhard bar like brand x stuff with symmetrical leaf springs. As for sway bar end links, poly is good, but you can also use Heim joints. Some modern cars also use a ball joint type link. I've got a couple out in my pile of parts that may get used on something.
Something like these?

258 R.JPG


260 RA.jpg


I shortened mine though.....

279 R.JPG


278 R.JPG
 
I just cut a section out of the middle of them with a grinder wheel and MIG welded them back together. I took a flat file and a flapper disc to clean up the welds, then sandblasted them to restore the rough cast finish.
 
I just cut a section out of the middle of them with a grinder wheel and MIG welded them back together. I took a flat file and a flapper disc to clean up the welds, then sandblasted them to restore the rough cast finish.

Nice! Completely invisible, thought they were original which didn't make sense.

How much did you shorten them by?
 
I'd have to measure them but if I recall, I took about an inch out of the middle.
 
I'd have to measure them but if I recall, I took about an inch out of the middle.

I ended up tripping over your thread on ForBBodiesOnly. You said 1.5" there. Hopefully that saves you the hassle of measuring them again.

Thanks!
 
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