Hard line VS soft line?

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Cope

Cope

Fusing with fire
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I'm changing my car over to hard line and am looking for opinions.

I seem to remember per NHRA the rule is like 12" total soft line under the hood?

What about aluminum vs steel line?

And jumpin jiminy, just the fittings alone will cost almost 500 bucks, then a 1/2" 37 degree flare tool....

OUCH....

Not to mention I dont think anyone in history has ever ordered all the correct fittings in one order....

What do you folks run and any advice what's best?
 
Aluminum is easier to bend and not kink than steel.

I think the rule is (it used to be anyway) they didn't want more than 6 inches of rubber line in one place to hook into the hard line. It's just as easy to use steel braided line to make your connections.
 
If you do aluminum hard line, you won't need a 37* flare tool. Just flare it to 45* w/ a regular flare tool. When you snug down a fitting, it'll form a 37* flare and seal.
 
What do the rules say about Nicopp Nickel / Copper lines? Kinda like the best of both worlds and better than rubber I would think.
 
Thought steel braided lines were okay to run from tank to engine? I use the summit brand black braided for mine, course not to the point of running yet.
 
Never saw anyone bounced for more than 12" of rubber hose. They might get picky if you are going into the 8's or lower. Running e85 or methanol might warrant SS. Bag the braided hose as much as you can. Its great in the trunk if you have your cell, pump and battery there. Its just great insurance and takes abuse better. Rubber to the hard line after the pump and when you you are snaking through the K. Run that hard line to the rad support and terminate it before the regulator. Thermal tape once you are into the engine compartment. Braided line and all those fittings cost more and add weight over the hard line/rubber hose. Try to swage the hard line ends for less chance of pull out.
 
A/MP said:
Never saw anyone bounced for more than 12" of rubber hose. They might get picky if you are going into the 8's or lower. Running e85 or methanol might warrant SS. Bag the braided hose as much as you can. Its great in the trunk if you have your cell, pump and battery there. Its just great insurance and takes abuse better. Rubber to the hard line after the pump and when you you are snaking through the K. Run that hard line to the rad support and terminate it before the regulator. Thermal tape once you are into the engine compartment. Braided line and all those fittings cost more and add weight over the hard line/rubber hose. Try to swage the hard line ends for less chance of pull out.
Click to expand...
they do have hi pressure hose for fuel inj. now that's legal .
 
This is pretty much what I ran:

I ran 1/2 aluminum line from the cell to the regulator ($22+$20 in fittings), spring tool for making bends ($5-10 bucks at autozone, but here is a 20 dollar one from Summit), Russel Twist Loc hose from the regulator to the carb (~50 bucks with fittings, this is NHRA approved fuel line).

About $100 to do the whole thing (or less if you have the tubing benders).

Summit Racing® Aluminum Fuel Lines SUM-G2512
Malco Tube Benders TB102K
Russell 634180: Twist-Lok Hose -08 AN | JEGS
 
I think the fuel system has way more fittings on this car.

-10 to -8 out of the cell.
Roll over vent
-10 O ring to -8 (regulator)
Two -8 bulkheads
Four -8 90 degree fittings
Four 3/8 NPT to -8
Four -8 unions
Lots of -8 tube flare supports
Lots of -8 tube nuts.

Plus lots more mis fittings....

And that's just the feed side....


20180604_172637_zpspgka6zqq.jpg



Not an A body or even a MOPAR but still quick and fast....

Yeah, no more small block.. just under 500 CI. At 13-1, flowing almost 500, with 2,050 CFM.

weighing in at 1,400 LBS wet and @ 847 at the wheels.....

:)
 
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I agree with fly-fish. They have pre-made tubes with fittings at each end of all sizes just hanging on the wall at the parts store? I've just got fittings out of the trays or at Ace Hardware to couple them together.
 
flyfish said:
This is pretty much what I ran:

I ran 1/2 aluminum line from the cell to the regulator ($22+$20 in fittings), spring tool for making bends ($5-10 bucks at autozone, but here is a 20 dollar one from Summit), Russel Twist Loc hose from the regulator to the carb (~50 bucks with fittings, this is NHRA approved fuel line).

About $100 to do the whole thing (or less if you have the tubing benders).

Summit Racing® Aluminum Fuel Lines SUM-G2512
Malco Tube Benders TB102K
Russell 634180: Twist-Lok Hose -08 AN | JEGS
Click to expand...

Old thread I know but are you sure that twist lok is an NHRA approved fuel line?
 
This is per the 2018 NHRA book I have on the computer

Lines: All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRAaccepted “woven or woven-pushlock.” A maximum of 12 inches total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle fuel lines are excluded. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16-inch length of steel tubing, 1/8-inch-minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as a protection against fuel-line rupture. Fuel lines may not be routed in the driveshaft tunnel. It is mandatory that fuel lines passing supercharger drive belts be steel braided, NHRA-accepted woven or woven-pushlock, or be enclosed in protective steel tubing. A current list of NHRAaccepted woven or woven-pushlock fuel lines is available on NHRARacer.com. All NHRA-accepted fuel lines must use ends that are specifically designed for the type of fuel line being used. No hose clamps allowed on NHRA-accepted fuel lines.
 
I like hard line. Cause that's what she said.
 
The only thing I can add is if you need to make a tight bend, you can get a couple of plugs, fill the tube with water and put the plugs on the end. Pop it in the freezer. When its frozen solid take it out and bend it. The water acts like a mandrel.
 
In the dirt racing world we don't have any fuel line or install rules to meet except WoO and Lucas Oil series requires an FIA certified cell.

I miss not have an Earl's dealer 25 minutes away. He knew how tuff it was to get the right stuff the first time so he'd take a deposit on the fitting and you'd get all the fittings you could use plus some extras... use what you need and return the rest within 10 days. If you didn't come back he charged your credit card for everything at retail. Otherwise his prices were way cheaper than any mail order outfit.
 
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