Harland sharp roller rockers - measure pushrod length

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Heywodja

Heywodja

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I am installing Harland sharp roller rockers on my set of trickflow 240 heads. I am trying to get a measurement for the pushrods.
I am not sure where the exposed threads for the adjuster are supposed to be counted from since there is a recess. Is it from the area where the threads exit the recessed area of the rocker or when looking across the bottom of the anodized area?

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Usually it is exposed threads - if you see the threads, they are not supported by the rocker. Are you using a checking pushrod? Typically a ball bearing is used in the checking pushrod cup and half of that diameter is subtracted.
 
Not sure how true this is. When I was checking push rod length on my 383 with trick flow 270's I was advised to have about 3 threads showing. Worked out pretty good
 
dartlove said:
Not sure how true this is. When I was checking push rod length on my 383 with trick flow 270's I was advised to have about 3 threads showing. Worked out pretty good
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Where was the lil feed hole in the rocker? Crane made some rockers with the oil hole moved down so you had to run the adjuster down. It was a dumb idea and Crane never gave me a good reason for doing it.
 
My harland sharps oil holes are approx 11/64 down. My cups are approx 1/4" below that. Could my push rods possibly be on the short side?
 
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I am checking with Mike @ b3re to get my stuff correct
 
What ever you do, don't contact Harland Sharp with your question. They probably don't know a thing about the designed thread count on their rockers.
 
This is probably a question that can be answered or put you in the ball park by Andy F.
 
IQ52 said:
What ever you do, don't contact Harland Sharp with your question. They probably don't know a thing about the designed thread count on their rockers.
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Well, uh, I don't know Jim. They say you need a .100-.150" longer valve to have good geometry with their rockers, so maybe they don't.
 
B3RE said:
Well, uh, I don't know Jim. They say you need a .100-.150" longer valve to have good geometry with their rockers, so maybe they don't.
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Yes, on their small block heads, what crap. They evidently don't understand it as well as you do.

But, come on man, the thread count I'd trust, until I checked it personally. I check everything personally and draw my own conclusions.

The geometry, I've had to change everyone's from the stock location. I'm really, really tired of trying to get someone to understand why I have to change the way their rockers set. It is why I build correction sets only for myself and refer everyone to you and your website. You do it better than I do.

I had a problem with Harland Sharp rockers destroying my pushrods years ago. It turned out that the adjusting screw ball ends were machined poorly and pieces were breaking off and burning up the pushrod cups. I inspect every adjusting screw more carefully now. They admitted there was a problem with the screws and would help me out by selling me new ones. Bought a lot of T&D stuff since then. I still use Harland Sharp, but I'm very careful on how I set it up, just like everything else.
 
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I hear ya, Jim. I was actually partly joking, but like you, I don't take a one size fits all approach to anything. HS may say X number of threads, or X thousandths below the rocker body, but relocate the shafts, and the excessive adjuster angle may change whether the oil gets in the cup or not. That's part of the reason I despise ball type adjusters. There is just no good reason to use them, imo.
 
Let me see if I possibly understand. It looks as if my HS rockers could stand to come back on the stem a bit. So if I were to have the stands milled down whatever thousandth needed. That would back up the rocker? How drastic of a change to the geometry? Which way good or bad.
 
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dartlove said:
Let me see if I possibly understand. It looks as if my HS rockers could stand to come back on the stem a bit. So if I were to have the stands milled down whatever thousandth needed that would back up the rocker? How drastic of a change to the geometry? Which way good or bad.
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Mill the stands with a roller rocker? Bad, very bad. Lash caps are also very bad in most cases.
 
Then how would a person center the rocker on the stem? If I understood some other threads about geometry of the Rockers. Wasn't it you that said mill the stands off for the roller shafts and use your stands. Just trying to figure out how to correct the placement of the roller to the valve stem, and keep geometry correct.
 
Heywodja said:
I am installing Harland sharp roller rockers on my set of trickflow 240 heads. I am trying to get a measurement for the pushrods.
I am not sure where the exposed threads for the adjuster are supposed to be counted from since there is a recess. Is it from the area where the threads exit the recessed area of the rocker or when looking across the bottom of the anodized area?

View attachment 1715156552
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An answer to the original question........From the Harland Sharp website..............

"Pushrod length adjuster should not exceed more than two threads out of the bottom of the rocker arm."

I would expect this to mean from "where the threads exit the recessed area". Because that is the last place the adjuster screw is being supported by the rocker body. I would also interpret this to mean that no more than two threads should be showing after the preload or lash has been set.

Now, it's up to you to determine how and if this will work in your application.
 
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dartlove said:
Then how would a person center the rocker on the stem? If I understood some other threads about geometry of the Rockers. Wasn't it you that said mill the stands off for the roller shafts and use your stands. Just trying to figure out how to correct the placement of the roller to the valve stem, and keep geometry correct.
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Let me, let me.......................you will most likely have to raise the rocker shaft (not lower it) and move it away from the valve tip, towards the exhaust port side. Aaah, Wrong, towards the intake port side.

B3 Racing Engines LLC - Performance Engine Building and Mopar Valvetrains
 
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dartlove said:
Then how would a person center the rocker on the stem? If I understood some other threads about geometry of the Rockers. Wasn't it you that said mill the stands off for the roller shafts and use your stands. Just trying to figure out how to correct the placement of the roller to the valve stem, and keep geometry correct.
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You don't have to mill off the stands with my correction kits, although you can mill off the stands and make new ones. It just costs more, and you have to know how to determine the proper position, not just center the roller and be done with it.

It wasn't me, but you probably heard Yellow Rose talk about milling off stands before I started making my kits.
 
Couple pics of the mock up, the adjuster has 1 thread showing.

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Yes thanks Jim. So can I purchase this correction kit? Is this something I can do myself. I am not an engineer but by no means dumb.
 
I am also experiencing lift loss as well. Supposed to have valve lift .660. Only can get .643.
 
If you look at your bottom picture, you see how the oil hole to the cup is positioned relative to the adjuster. You have the adjuster correctly postioned. I'd bet everything I have that if you measure how far the adjuster is out of the rocker it will be very close to .281 which is what it should be.

Now you have to consider what happens at low engine speeds. Most guys don't run enough pump volume and not enough pressure. At low engine speeds, look how far the oil has to squirt out of that hole just to hit the adjuster and oil it and the cup. These are not Chevys and running a low volume pump with high spring loads and agressive lobes is death to pushrods and adjusters.


Also, you can be sure your shafts have to go up and towards the intake manifold. They ALL do. If you go to Mikes web site (b3racingengines.com) and read his tech stuff and really think about it, you'll wonder why people use lash caps, longer valves and other crutches which only make it worse. A centered pattern isn't nearly as important as getting the sweep down.
 
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