Harmonic Balancer Help, removal a/c and power steering

Slant 6 Engines

  1. armyofchuckness

    armyofchuckness The Flying Valiant

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    Hey everyone. I'm currently trying to disassemble my engine that has a double pulley for a/c, so the harmonic balancer is first. Tried removing it with a crow's foot puller, but so far nothing. No bolt in the middle. Am I missing something? Can they be pulled one at a time?

    Also, when this is done, I want to add power steering too. Does this mean I need to find a triple wide pulley? Thanks!
     
  2. TrailBeast

    TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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    What you do is remove the bolts holding the pulleys to the balancer and use a puller that bolts into at least two of the bolt holes.

    Though this is not a Mopar balancer in the picture, this is the kind of puller I use and the way I use it.

    It has arms that go with it for pulling other things but I use it this way for balancers.

    If your crank has threads but no bolt and you don't want to mess up the threads put something in the hole first for the puller center bolt to bottom on.
     

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    • armyofchuckness

      armyofchuckness The Flying Valiant

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      Yep, that's what I was using. I think I see the problem. I was letting my puller thread into the balancer and that's why nothing was happening. I soaked it in Blaster again this morning and I'll try it again with a deep-well socket in the hole or something instead. Thanks for the tip!
       
    • Sedanman

      Sedanman 67-9 Valiant specialist FABO Gold Member

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      I screw the bolt back in but not tight. There is enough clearance for the balancer to pull out around it then I take the bolt off after it's removed.
       
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      • ScampMike

        ScampMike Despicable Damn Yankee

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        the puller should have an adapter that goes in through center of the damper against the crank end, it's a round piece with a point on one side and an indent for the point of the puller shaft on the other - when you get it set up right it helps keep everything centered too - just did this 4 days ago, piece of cake - - personally I think you are better off using three points for pulling especially if it is on there as hard as it seems.. if you have to go with two, be prepared to change your pull locations once or twice - keep it straight you don't want it getting "cockeyed"
        When you're done and reassembling it all - maybe consider a serpentine system..???
         
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        • TrailBeast

          TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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          No bolt in his and what I was warning him about was the tip on some of the pullers will get jammed in the threads and trash them.
          Putting a socket or something in there for the end to push against keeps that from being a possibility.
           
        • armyofchuckness

          armyofchuckness The Flying Valiant

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          That's an intriguing idea. I'll have to look and see if someone's done that before with a Slant. Seems like a good idea since I'm going to have power steering, alternator, and compressor off the block.
           
        • TrailBeast

          TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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          It has been done on a slant with Intrepid parts and pulleys, but I have never seen a kit but that doesn't mean there isn't one.
           
        • BillGrissom

          BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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          I wish I had been that smart when I pulled the crank pulley/damper on my Plymouth 2.4L engine years ago. I used a 3-jaw generic puller, w/ jaws on the "spoke" puller pads. My mistake was to rest the cone seat on the crank hole. Apparently, it swaged the crank out so it became permanently married to the crank pulley. I gave up and got the special (engine-specific) Autozone free rental that better fit the pulley pull pads, but that was too late. That puller broke off a pulling pad. I left the pulley on and added a dab of epoxy to make up for the missing pad. Have managed to squeeze a timing belt off and on past the stuck pulley. The other big mistake people make is to pull on the outer ring, which just shears the damper rubber, then they ask here, "any way to put the ring back?". Take your time and think it thru or you can get bigger problems.
           
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          • TrailBeast

            TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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            I don't know if smart had anything to do with it, since I learned it the hard way just like you did. :D
             
          • armyofchuckness

            armyofchuckness The Flying Valiant

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            Hey, the socket in the crank hole worked perfectly, by the way. Thanks, TrailBeast! Everything else went well with the disassembly, but one of the 3/8 bolts holding the journal on the back of the block stripped out, so I can't remove the crankshaft tonight. No luck with extractors, but I'll be back at it tomorrow. Worst case scenario, it's going to the machine shop anyway. I can have them deal with it.
             
          • RustyRatRod

            RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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            Check the threads in the crankshaft. Your puller was not threading into the balancer, but the crankshaft. Hopefully, it didn't do any damage.
             
          • ScampMike

            ScampMike Despicable Damn Yankee

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            I gotta read more carefully - that's the second time I have commented on a slant 6 thinking it was about an 8.. sorry about that.
             
          • armyofchuckness

            armyofchuckness The Flying Valiant

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            I checked. Doesn't seem to be any damage. I didn't go at it too strong. Seemed pretty obvious something was wrong from the get-go so I stopped. Thanks again to everyone for the advice.
             
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