Has anyone used these lifters ?

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Kendog 170

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I'll be switching my cam over to solid from hydraulic on my 440/500 . If I don't start my car after a week it seems the lifters bleed down more than I ever had over the years. I know these are hydraulic . They say Anti-Pump up lifters. Is that suppose to mean they don't bleed down ? Or is it a Rhodes type lifter to help with high lift. Just curious
 
Anti pump lifters are exactly what the name implies. They will not pump solid at high RPM and cause valve float like a standard hydraulic lifter. But to run them, you must run either zero valve lash, or even a little lash like .002"-.004" like a solid cam. And of course, there's usually a little noise involved. I've never liked them They are a kind of "bridge" if you will between hydraulic and solid lifters. I just make the jump to solid and be done with it.
 
Since your going solid, just grab the proper lifter and go. As far as Rhodes lifters go......

The Rhodes lifters are so designed as not to pump up quickly. The idea is to delay the pump up action. This in turn creates a condition that has the effect of making the cam smaller by reducing the duration and lift.

I would not ever use a lifter to help with lift. Or help correct a problem with lift, valve train, or anything of the sorts. If there is a problem, fix it where the problem lies and not with trick parts. That is they ONLY way to do it.

Rhodes claims somewhere between 10 - 20 degrees of duration depending on the exact lifter used and how it is set up. Lift can be reduced up to .020.

How you would or why you would use these lifters is up to you. Sometimes there used as a band aid because something in the combo is out of wack. With the cam itself being to big, or other things like a converters stall speed not being in line with the cam, wrong gear ratio or size tire, etc...

You could try and get mad scientist with them as well.
Making use of there cam duration shorting abilities could allow a slightly bigger camshaft in a hot street set up. The extra torque can help with around town driving and at 3K when they pump up, full cam action returns.

I’ve done this on a single pattern, a slightly to large of a cam in a engine that is an “Extra parts build.”
A Rhodes lifter on intakes only. The effect? A temporary dual pattern cam until 3K where the natural ground cam kicks in along with the reported full return to normal operation of the lifters occurs.

For a spare parts build with not so great matching parts, the lifters helped make it work.
 
How you would or why you would use these lifters is up to you. Sometimes there used as a band aid because something in the combo is out of wack. With the cam itself being to big, or other things like a converters stall speed not being in line with the cam, wrong gear ratio or size tire, etc...

I agree. I once had a 360 that I over cammed and wrong TC stall. I fished out the lifters (intakes only) and put Roades in,. I got dumb *** lucky with the improvement but would would never do **** like that again.
My plan is just to go solid I just was curious what they were about.
 
Most modern cars use some type of Variable valve timing (VVT) Rhodes lifters are
in effect VVT. With so many people reporting hydraulic lifter problems (China) why
not a USA product that actually works.
Too many so called hot rod gurus have over cammed mean sounding (idle) to
show at cruise night,which run like ****
 
True, modern cars are wonderful with their wizardry and computers.

Us cavemen and our stone aged mills get to employ tricks at best.

Most modern cars use some type of Variable valve timing (VVT) Rhodes lifters are
in effect VVT. With so many people reporting hydraulic lifter problems (China) why
not a USA product that actually works.
Too many so called hot rod gurus have over cammed mean sounding (idle) to
show at cruise night,which run like ****
 
Variable duration lifters like Rhoads and anti pump up lifters are different animals kinda at opposite ends of the spectrum. People sometimes think they are the same. They are not.

Also, Rhoads are different than other variable duration lifters, because they do not use oil pressure to change duration. That feature is handled only with RPM. Oil pressure has nothing to do with it. Go on their site and read about them. It tells you all about them and how they operate.

I've never been a fan, but they do work. If I want a cam to "act smaller" I'll just choose a smaller cam. I know, the Rhoads lifters give the benefit of having the cam "big again" at higher RPM, but there's that little voice in the back of my mind that's asking if they are allowing ALL of the cam's lift and duration to be given at those higher RPMs. There's really no way to tell. That's why I have sworn off hydraulic lifters for my builds and will only use them for someone else. Just my personal opinion.
 
To add to the discussion, I had a new 340 Duster. After first oil change I used Castrol GTX and I had lifter bleed down like you're talking about because I didn't use the car every day. I swithched to Quaker state and had no more lifter bleed down. Of course this is 48 years ago when oil had Zinc in it. Maybe a different oil might solve your problem.
 
Actually, that’s a good mention. IMO, it may not be so much the oil but grade. I had an issue where 5-30 rattled and switched to 10-40 and got silence.

Ehhh,maybe? Just maybe...
 
Wow! That is some heavy thick oil. Perhaps the reverse?
 
I guess I’m wondering why you’re inquiring about anti-pump up hyd lifters if you’re installing a solid lifter cam?

“Most” anti-pump up lifters are a fast bleed type with a special retainer that moves the plunger down in the body so there is less oil volume under it.
As mentioned, the “anti-pump up” part is mostly that the plungers can’t “pump up” if they’re already basically sitting up against the retainer...... which I why they run with essentially zero preload.
 
Only asked as I saw them and wanted to learn is all. You guys have given me enough knowledge to be outright dangerous now ! LoL
 
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