Heat Soaked Starter

-
For 63-66 A bodies with 727s or with manual trans, TTI says you must use the RobbMc Performance starter #3005 - almost $400.

I'm not a betting man, but I'd still bet a case of beer one and/or the other of the starters I linked in post #4 of this thread will fit just fine, for like $310 less.
 
1751846177307.jpeg


For some reason I can't link to the Amazon listing (and your links don't work either), but search for a starter for a 2005-2008 Dodge Ram with 5.7 V8 and manual trans. Several come up, including this one.
 
View attachment 1716427278

For some reason I can't link to the Amazon listing (and your links don't work either), but search for a starter for a 2005-2008 Dodge Ram with 5.7 V8 and manual trans. Several come up, including this one.

Those years will get you a plug in solenoid wire instead of a ring terminal (I think)

When I 5.9 swapped my 66 barracuda I pulled a starter from a junkyard 2006 RAM pickup and it had the plug. I grabbed the plug and a length of wire and spliced it into my harness.

Mine is tight as he'll with the 5.9 and Doug's headers but, THANKFULLY, no heat soak in the past 6 years.
 
From my experience, starting from 1980 thru 1988, Chrysler made an aluminum starter heat shield. Tight fit around the starter and works quite well. Consider updating your battery to starter cable and also the negative cable too? Had similar experiences with my drag only 360/904. Usually hit the starter with spray bottle of water. I later moved to fenderwell headers and all problems went away. Fabbing fenderwell headers for street '65 now.
 
Struggled with this for years. 408, with TTI and TKO 600, RobbMC starter. Starter and header in area of starter is heat wrapped. Did not help. Battery in trunk so 20 feet of cable. Did some voltage loss checks and found battery not getting 12v to starter. This lower voltage fine for cold starter but not for hot starter. Added 1/0 cable, largest I could find and this fixed it. Now, it still struggles a bit if i am driving around town in hot weather, but it has never let me down since.
Is your battery in front/back and what is your cable size and voltage loss to starter?

IMG_20190518_1537547.jpg
 
Struggled with this for years. 408, with TTI and TKO 600, RobbMC starter. Starter and header in area of starter is heat wrapped. Did not help. Battery in trunk so 20 feet of cable. Did some voltage loss checks and found battery not getting 12v to starter. This lower voltage fine for cold starter but not for hot starter. Added 1/0 cable, largest I could find and this fixed it. Now, it still struggles a bit if i am driving around town in hot weather, but it has never let me down since.
Is your battery in front/back and what is your cable size and voltage loss to starter?

View attachment 1716428190
Thanks. Battery is in front in my car. I haven't been able to work on it yet so don't know the voltage drop. I really think I'm having issues with the solenoid and not the starter motor anyway.

On another note, how do you like the Tremec? How was the fit into the small A-body transmission tunnel?
 
Thanks. Battery is in front in my car. I haven't been able to work on it yet so don't know the voltage drop. I really think I'm having issues with the solenoid and not the starter motor anyway.

On another note, how do you like the Tremec? How was the fit into the small A-body transmission tunnel?
Ok, check voltage drop first as that is easy. Before you start replacing starter.

TKO 600 is great. Get highway speeds down to low 2000 rpms. Tunnel needed major surgery though in my 63 - basically cut out existing and build new - I have pics somewhere if you want to see. Hydraulic clutch on this which saves some space.
 
I built a 65 Valiant, with same combo you have, i put a couple of wraps around the starter, never had any problems with heat soak, i drove it on the street for years, and then my daughter got the car and drove for years, i did use a Dakota starter, maybe i cannot see good, but it seems like there is more room.
 
I built a 65 Valiant, with same combo you have, i put a couple of wraps around the starter, never had any problems with heat soak, i drove it on the street for years, and then my daughter got the car and drove for years, i did use a Dakota starter, maybe i cannot see good, but it seems like there is more room.
I wasn't aware the early A body headers from TTI had been available as long as you make out. I thought they were fairly new.
 

I wasn't aware the early A body headers from TTI had been available as long as you make out. I thought they were fairly new.

I gave up TTI distributorship 2008ish cuza the rust issues, trying to deal across the border was a major pain, - started installing Dougs .
Slip joint was original design, they changed to a design very similar to Doug's, over linkage, no slip-joint.
 
Last edited:
I gave up TTI distributorship 2008ish cuza the rust issues, trying to deal across the border was a major pain, - started installing Dougs .
Slip joint was original design, they changed to a design very similar to Doug's, over linkage, no slip-joint.
I ran Dougs on my 65 360 Valiant back in the mid 90s. Those were the easiest installing headers ever. They fit fantastic. I wish they'd make some slant 6 headers.
 
I was considering putting my 360 in my "66 Dart but the Exhaust has exhausted me . I looked at the TTI and came to the conclusion that it would be a problem with clearance with P/S and column shift 904 and torsion bars .
At the time Sanderson didn't have headers for the application so I looked a Dougs . Does anyone know if the Sanderson DD9 fit with P/S and column shift 904 ? Didn't see anything on their web site about that .

Again it seemed to be a p.i.a. so I'm staying with my numbers matching /6 904 , for now ?

IMG_1745 2.jpeg
 
-
Back
Top Bottom