1. drawz

    drawz Active Member

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    Hi!

    I'm planning to replace the heater core on my 67 dodge dart GT next weekend, and have a few questions.

    Do I have to bleed the system aften replacing it? If so, what is the proper way to do this? I have a non-factory radiator, and I think theres no bleeding skrew. Can i just leave the top cap open for a little while?

    EDIT: I have a Champion radiator.
     
  2. drawz

    drawz Active Member

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    Anyone?
     
  3. 1970Duster

    1970Duster Well-Known Member

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    What you've stated is the way I do it.
     
  4. la4spd

    la4spd The Brat Pack

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    It'll take care of it's self. Just check radiator a couple times. OH yeah, make sure your temperature is set to hot so coolant will run through core.
     
  5. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The way I do it is just connect the hose to the engine coming out by the Tstat, but LEAVE it off at the core, and prop it up so it's "up high." This provides an air path.

    Then just fill it up. You can "dip" the hose down carefully into a can to get coolant, then connect. Fire it up and check the heater hoses. Both hoses should get warm. If not......no circulation.
     
  6. dartnabout

    dartnabout FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Bleeding is not an issue with the old stuff like this new stuff we drive. Just pour some water in the heater hose to fill the heater core...put the hose on and leave the cap off and fill as needed. My Ram you have is a PIA to get the air lock out but the old things that we love are not as big an issue. At least not to my observation.
     
  7. famous bob

    famous bob mopar misfit

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    the easiest way is just jack the front of the car up where the rad. cap is the highest point. with everything hooked up like normal, open the heat where it will circulate and fill it, engine running of course. hotrodders that have the the rad. cap lower than the engine have been doing this for yrs. had to do it that way on my 406 vega everytime I filled it.--bob
     
  8. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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    Be careful of the new heater core. Some of the replacements, the tubes are not bent as tight and may interfere with the housing. If you force it too much, it may crack the heater case.

    FYI.
     
  9. Robbie2734

    Robbie2734 Lambcharger

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    All of the above with just one more suggestion, it would be a good idea to replace all of the antifreeze. It's a great time to do the thermostat and new antifreeze, you'll be ready for this summer. Don't forget to check your hoses.
     
  10. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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    Also, while you have the heater box out, replace any foam that you can with new stuff. It is worth the time to get it all done correctly. You can find some replacement foam at home improvement/hardware stores. (especially the foam around the heater core)
     
  11. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Sorry guys this is NOT true. Almost any engine will airlock once in awhile.

    I damn near did this when putting a cam in a 440 a very long time ago. I was checking the heater hoses and could not figure out why they were not getting warm. This was on my 69 RR.
     
  12. MRGTX

    MRGTX Well-Known Member

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    Guys,
    Any tips on which heater cores fit and which don't?
     
  13. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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    MRGTX,
    Different PN's for factory AC and non-AC cars. Check rockauto.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • burdar

      burdar Owen's Dad

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      Not impressed with the heater core I bought from Advance Auto. The tubes weren't bent correctly. I had to oval out the holes in the sheet metal plate that is screwed to the box. I also had to trim the mounting flange for it to fit inside the box.

      It might be a good idea to see if a radiator shop can fix your original one.

      Definitely get a heater box gasket kit from DMT and install it while everything is apart.

      I drilled a small hole in the thermostat to prevent an air lock. I was able to completely fill the system without the engine running.
       
    • MRGTX

      MRGTX Well-Known Member

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      Bill,
      Thanks.
      I see that they have several choices but like burdar states, I have heard of others who buy the "correct" heater core only to find that the tubes are bent incorrectly.

      My plan now is to have Napa order one up and I'll bring my old one with me to compare before I take it home...

      I do have a tubing bender kit but I have only bent fuel lines, etc. with it...not sure if it's possible to bend this gauge of tube that way....has anyone done it?
       
    • 67Dart273

      67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      You talking about the tubes out of the core? You won't be bending those, at least not easily. Heating them will melt the solder in the tank connection
       
    • 67mopr

      67mopr Well-Known Member

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      I bought a new core but the one of the tubes wasn't bent right and it would not fit in the heater box right. So I took my new core and the old one to a shop in Logotee In. he said the tanks in the old one were still in great shape and would work just fine. So he took the old tank cleaned it and put it in the new heater core and it worked fine... But I have a leak now and I'm trying to find it The fluid runs down my firewall and I get a few drops on the inside of my car on the outside of my box. I can stick my hand inside the box and feel the core and it feels dry inside. I'm hoping it's the hose on the outside.
       
    • retractable

      retractable Well-Known Member

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      I bought on off Ebay and had trouble with the tubes not bent right. They broke loose when I was installing. Ordered one from NAPA and it fit correctly and is working fine after 3 years. Good luck with the install.
       
    • MRGTX

      MRGTX Well-Known Member

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      Like an idiot, I relized after more frustration than I'd care to admit, that there are two more clips holding the box on, against the side of the foot well on the right hand side. I had to remove the sill plate and the plastic trim piece before I could barely get a screw driver in there to pop them off... not sure if my hands are dexterous enough to get them back on but I will fight that battle when I get there.

      So there are two screws holding the heater core in... but mine appears to be held in with some kind of adhesive...is that right? The thing barely budged after I removed the screws...and yes, the hoses are off, etc.

      I wanted to ask before I forced anything. :D

      Thanks again for all of the help!

      This is encouraging!

      I get most of my stuff from Napa and my plan is still to bring along my original one to compare...if it doesn't look right, the original core is going to the radiator repair shop...along with some prayers.
       
    • BillGrissom

      BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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      It sounds like you are trying to take the heater box apart while it is in the car. I don't know if that is possible, and it would certainly be harder and error-prone. Post #10 said "while you have the heater box out". It isn't terribly hard to remove, especially in a non-AC car.
       
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