Hei vs points.

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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Since my ignition issues have arised I have been reading and researching alot about ignitions. Just learning everything I can about them and how they work I find it fascinating and I always enjoy learning new things. Anyway I came across this video and thought it was very interesting. I love Utg videos this is a really cool test. Im sure there will be alot of hate on this video but I liked it.
 
I love points. 1 wire fire.....

P.S. - you should have asked without the UTG video. This thread is now about UTG, what he is and isn't and you asked what??? LOL
 
BUT.... I used HEI in this situation, and it's worked great. Here is an easy way to do it.

 
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318willrun said:
I love points. 1 wire fire.....

P.S. - you should have asked without the UTG video. This thread is now about UTG, what he is and isn't and you asked what??? LOL
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Lol the thread was just supposed to be about the video. I wasn't particularly asking for suggestions. The title was more rhetorical based on the video. Im just learning about all of the systems and how they all work. Not necessarily what works best or what to use. Im keeping mine stock Im just leaning about them all. I find points fascinating tho
 
dartfreak75 said:
Lol the thread was just supposed to be about the video. I wasn't particularly asking for suggestions. The title was more rhetorical based on the video.
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Ahhh... thought you were thinking on going to either points or HEI. :)
 
You have to take Tony with a grain of salt. He is knowledgeable but does prefer to do things the cheapest and or old school because that’s who he is. There’s more then one way to get the desired result. There are pros and cons to both hei and points. Most prefer not to deal with points as they wear, quality replacement parts are hard to find, who knows what you’re getting with a 50 year old points distributor and some have issues with higher rpms. That doesn’t mean you can’t get them to perform. Many just don’t have the time or parts or patience to fiddle with them to get them just right.
 
You can trigger a Mopar ECU with points and the points will last forever as they are switching next to nothing now, the ECU is doing all the heavy switching, sort of acting like a relay. I have preached that if your using an MSD ignition, keep a points distributor in the trunk. When a CD ignition dies, there is usually no side of the road tweaking to get it to work, with points you got a chance, especially with a dual point.
 
dartfreak75 said:
No lol just thought it was an interesting video. Im trying to learn as much as i can about all of them tho
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If I travel far away from home in any of my classics (which we do), I carry a points distributor with me. Cheap insurance....
 
The other little interesting tidbit is that if you have a Mopar breakerless system and a spare points distro, you don't even need to change anything to drop the points in.

Let's "say" the ECU goes bad. All you need do is drop in the points dist, unplug the ECU and hook the points wire to the coil neg. The resistor is hooked up the same. Not a bad idea to carry a spare resistor.

I like HEI modules. I used one on mine with no resistor, stock coil.
 
Sorry guys this video doesn't really prove much of anything one way or t'other. Does a breaker point dist. work? Yeh, maybe, LOL
 
If he wanted to do a real test he would run the identical coil on both to make ONLY the ignition switching the difference. Totally could have been done. Nobody knows the variation in the coil anyway.

The reason why everyone uses electronic is it doesn't physically wear out and change its characteristics after 10-15k miles. Problems are mostly crap replacement ignition parts at this point.

The best ignition systems are multi-coil systems with crank trigger anyway. Of course that's outside of the scope of UTG.
 
in some waysThat confirms what others have said for years. I was sold on dual points for high performance and was late to the party changing over to Chrysler Mopar performance electronic system only about 10 years ago or so. The system is basically been trouble free and I am glad I changed over but I would not hesitate slapping my old eclin mechanical dual point back in it. Good points are harder to find and condensers fail fairly regularly on hot systems so I learned to always carry an extra condenser. But now I carry an extra control unit so there you go.
 
Ditch the ballast, hook the wires together, and run a GM 4 pin module with your chrysler distributor. Keep a spare 4 pin module and electronic distributor in the trunk. Not much there to break. Then if it does, you got plug n play.
 
His point was that points type ignitions work. He's right.
 
As long as you use good quality points and matched components you are good. Biggest thing I have found is Point float at say 7-8000 rpm. And should be changed every 10k or so miles which is what ten years on our cars?
 
The coil is what it making the spark.

The dist is the trigger. The electronic triggers SHOULD be more consistent. And SHOULD not have point bounce or float ( that's not to say they don't have their own electrical version of those things)

If you like old school (I do!) Stay with points, carry a dist cap, rotor, points, condenser, ignition wrench set, feeler gauge, and flat blade screwdriver in your trunk, you won't need it if you do the proper preventive maintenance. My dad drove my dart 25+ years and 315,000 miles with points, (not one set mind you) and never was left on the side of the road.
 
goldduster318 said:
If he wanted to do a real test he would run the identical coil on both to make ONLY the ignition switching the difference. Totally could have been done. Nobody knows the variation in the coil anyway.

The reason why everyone uses electronic is it doesn't physically wear out and change its characteristics after 10-15k miles. Problems are mostly crap replacement ignition parts at this point.

The best ignition systems are multi-coil systems with crank trigger anyway. Of course that's outside of the scope of UTG.
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That's one opinion.
 
RustyRatRod said:
His point was that points type ignitions work. He's right.
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Yes they do. And will work just fine after an EMP if you remove and protect the capacitor in a faraday cage while in storage. Of course the radiation will get ya first and mutant cockroaches will be driving your dodge dart.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Yes they do. And will work just fine after an EMP if you remove and protect the capacitor in a faraday cage while in storage. Of course the radiation will get ya first and mutant cockroaches will be driving your dodge dart.
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Mutant cockroaches and Keith Richards.
 
Tbh i never knew how a points system worked until last night. @67Dart273 explained it to me and so I started reading about them and researching them. I never knew how simple and easy they were. I always thought they was completely obsolete. But now I know differently. I like learning the old school ways of stuff. I'm gonna have to find me a points distributor now.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Tbh i never knew how a points system worked until last night. @67Dart273 explained it to me and so I started reading about them and researching them. I never knew how simple and easy they were. I always thought they was completely obsolete. But now I know differently. I like learning the old school ways of stuff. I'm gonna have to find me a points distributor now.
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Some of the fastest cars on earth in the 1/4 mile were still using points in the 90's, long after electronic ignitions were in play
 
I wanted to keep the original 69 look, but wanted the reliability of electronic ignition.
The "RevNator" electronic box is hidden under the battery tray. Mopar electronic distributor.
All in all it looks like standard Mopar points ignition, ya have to look hard to tell the differences.
Screenshot_20210123-130558_Gallery.jpg
 
318willrun said:
Some of the fastest cars on earth in the 1/4 mile were still using points in the 90's, long after electronic ignitions were in play
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Iv been looking at some dwell meters already too. :rolleyes::lol: like I don't have enough to do already. Idk why but that old school stuff just intrigues me. I want to learn as much as I can about the old school methods of tuning. Carb tuning, points, timing, vacuum tuning etc!
 
Joey4speed said:
I wanted to keep the original 69 look, but wanted the reliability of electronic ignition.
The "RevNator" electronic box is hidden under the battery tray. Mopar electronic distributor.
All in all it looks like standard Mopar points ignition, ya have to look hard to tell the differences.
View attachment 1715675797
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That looks nice!
 
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